500 gal in-wall

[fareforce]

My wife has given me the thumbs up to do a large tank in 2 years when we move to the lower 48.

My plans are for a in-wall custom tank (wood) that is 96" long, 33" wide, and 36" deep. I am hoping to use 4 250w MH's for the lighting.

Would I be able to keep shrooms, zoo's, and a clams (i know I am pushing it with the clam) on the bottom? If not what would be the max depth the tank could be with that lighting? I am trying not to go to 400w MH's due to heat, and extra power usage.

Also, How can I figure out what size glass to use on the front?

 

[KevinFJB]

Re: 500 gal in-wall

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6944934#post6944934 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fareforce
My wife has given me the thumbs up to do a large tank in 2 years when we move to the lower 48.

Cool

My plans are for a in-wall custom tank (wood) that is 96" long, 33" wide, and 36" deep. I am hoping to use 4 250w MH's for the lighting.

Would you consider going 33" tall and 36" front to back?

Would I be able to keep shrooms, zoo's, and a clams (i know I am pushing it with the clam) on the bottom? If not what would be the max depth the tank could be with that lighting? I am trying not to go to 400w MH's due to heat, and extra power usage.

You could keep 'shrooms/softies/LPS and SPS in the top half, but might want to consider 400W for clams on the sand and especially so if the tank is going 36" tall. In my canopy I use two 250W DE halides and one 400W SE halide in the center and can not detect any difference in the heat generated. And, FWIW, on a monthly basis, the difference between four 400W and four 250W is not huge and in terms of relative expense in setting up and running a 500g tank, relatively very small. The pumps running 24/7 are the real drivers of electrical consumption.

Also, How can I figure out what size glass to use on the front?

Probably want to speak with a few builders and large tank owners to get right answer on this - will also depend somewhat on the tank design - Euro bracing is the way to go IMO.

 

[Fiziksgeek]

With 36" depth you might be able to do clams with 400's, definitely not 250's. I would keep it to 24". Maybe a little more if you plan to have a dsb.

 

[fareforce]

Hmm, it will be a shallow bed. 1-3". Maybe I will just do 24" deep and 36" wide. That will make it look long and skinny though. Glad I am starting the planning now.

I have 2years to plan, and the wife has told me if I start it, she want it up and going with-in 1 year so she can get her dori fish.. lol

Any advise on doing a tank this size? Any suggestions will help!!

I am also planning on having a 2 100gal rubbermaid sumps, and a 55gal frag tank but those will be hidden.

 

[fareforce]

I might just have to use 400w MH's and go 36" deep.

I guess I could do 400w on one side, and do 250's on the other side for lower light guys.. That would work wouldn't it?

 

[KevinFJB]

Absolutely. Once of my favourite local tanks is a 180 SPS that uses a combination of 250W and 400W - rockwork is higher near the back and open sand toward the front. All SPS are under the 400W near the back and all ricordea and LPS are near the front on the sand under the 250's.

 

[KevinFJB]

Also, 36" tall not only requires thinking about higher wattage light but also will be extrememly difficult to work on, epsecially with and in wall set up. Even a 30" tank is tough to work on unless you are very tall. Best way to determine is to see if you can go and have a look at a 30" abnd 36" tall tank to judge for yourself. Most larger tanks seem to be 30" or less tall and relatively longer and deeper (front to back)

 

[fareforce]

Hmm.. I was thining about using a snorkel to do setup, but you are right.. I am only 5'8"... I will have to look at a few..

 

[fareforce]

Ok. I played with some tape, and My wife are torn between two sizes. What do you guys think?

Size #1
96" Long
36" wide
30" deep
Total Volume = 448.8 Gallons

Size #2
96" Long
36" wide
24" deep
Total Volume = 359.1 Gallons

I like the first one better, but I am only 5'8". The back side will be in a dedicated room, and Will have a platform build behind the tank for me to stand on while working in it.

 

[Fiziksgeek]

My preference would be the first option as well. I like deep tanks, but you need to be realistic about them. And I also like lots of front to back width, so I like your 36" width alot!

You might want to try 4 MH's. 400's in the middle, and 250's on each end. Then just keep the light loving clams and acros toward the center.

 

[fareforce]

I think I am going to use dry rock for most of it. This way I don't have to worry about what is in the rock when I am in the tank setting it up!!! lol

Time for a snorkel and swim shorts.

Actually they way I am planning on doing the rock I will need the 400's on the left. I will try to draw something up at my house tonight and post it. Gotta love photoshop. It will let you invision anything!!!

 

[waynesworld]

Well I am in the process of making a u shaped tank and one of the sides is going to be 120X36X30 and I will let you know how it goes on the board. We have the cocreate down now starting the framing on the addition. As far as glass I have been told by some fish tank builders that you can use 1/2 inch glass if your tank is no higher then 30 tall but I will probably still use tempered glass just in case. I have seen cars drive up on tempered glass and not break.

 

[fareforce]

so you only need 1/2" tempered?

Man I was thinking 3/4" - 1" tempered..

 

[MdM31]

If you want good penetration and coverage from your metal halides, look in to the luminarc III reflectors. 400's would be ideal in your setup.

-Mike

 

[fareforce]

I think I am going to use 2 400's and 2 250's. This way I can put lower light stuff on the bottom of one side.

 

[fareforce]

Okay i drew these up really quick.. So, yes they look bad, but hopefully you will get the idea..

If I have time later I will actually photoshop some better pics..

Anyways..

Bird's eye view.. The top of the picture will be the back wall of the tank:

Front view.. If you were facing the front.

 

[fareforce]

A lot of room to swim, and even more for frags!!!

I am guessing 600#'s in the tank, and another 300#'s for the sumps..

The left side will be the 400w MH's for high light, and the right side will be 250w MH's for lower light.

 

[RobbyG]

I would go with the deeper tank, you can always modify the lights later but the Tank is final commitment!

BTW why 4 holes in each overflow? I am no expert on this but it seems like a lot.

As for the Glass thickness I would let the builder specify it, then check back with these guys on RC. You don't want to tell him 1/2" and then later you have a problem and he says "I used what you told me to".

 

[fareforce]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6968910#post6968910 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobbyG
I would go with the deeper tank, you can always modify the lights later but the Tank is final commitment!

BTW why 4 holes in each overflow? I am no expert on this but it seems like a lot.

As for the Glass thickness I would let the builder specify it, then check back with these guys on RC. You don't want to tell him 1/2" and then later you have a problem and he says "I used what you told me to".

4 holes in each overflow.. 2 are for returns, and 2 are for drains.

Since the whole tank will be automated, I want it almost fool proof.. I would have to clog 3 out of 4 drains tfor the main tank to flood. Each sump will also have an "emergency" drain incase something goes wrong it will drain all water out of the top 4" of the tubs. Each tub will have it's own drain system like this, as well as it's own closed loop and heaters.. Just in case all hell breaks loose.

 

[alien9168]

2 years of planning....wow...I dont think its a strtch to say that I def. couldnt wait that long lol. You must have serious patience!

-alien