500G (84X48X30)- NOW REAL !

[Sanjay]

Ok.. here is the famous "Schiemer Stand". I have permission to post the pictures and the notes that Greg sent me.

à I used 8ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ x 15ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ cinder blocks, which I thought were a good compromise. I used rough exterior blocks, which are somewhat decorative. They also make blocks that are pre-colored, which are terrific, but I decided to paint mine. The paint has held up very well. I used Rustoleum acrylic paint. Great stuff!

à I did all the work myself. It couldnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t be easier. I had never done anything like it before. I simply stacked the blocks and used masonry cement between them. I leveled them at each level. I filled the blocks with concrete and metal rods later. This is probably overkill, but I wanted a really solid wall.

à The beam is a 4-inch H-beam, which is 4 inches along the top and bottom. Itââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s made of steel. I-beams differ in that one side is shorter than the other. I bought a 20 foot piece at a welding place and they cut it in half for me.

à I used blocks of wood along the ends as additional support; although I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t think it was necessary.

à I placed a Ã"šÃ‚½Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚ piece of plywood on the top of the beams. If I had to do it over again, Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢d use Ã"šÃ‚¾Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚ plywood. I also placed 2x4ââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s from side to side along the length for additional support. They fit inside the H-beam. Again, I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t think theyââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢re doing anything, but someone had suggested it and I figured it couldnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t hurt.

à I placed bolts in the tops of the cinderblocks after I filled them with concrete. I used these bolts to attach the H-beams. I drilled corresponding holes in the H-beams to accommodate the bolts. These were used to prevent the H-beams from slipping. I also used masonry cement under the H-beams to fine-tune the leveling.

à There are no plates on top of the H-beams. I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t see any reason for it.

à I used Rustoleoum acrylic (water-based) paint to paint the wood, blocks and beams. In 8 years, it hasnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t chipped, peeled or rusted through on any surface. Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ve even scrubbed the blocks on occasion to clean them of dust and salt creep.

à I wouldnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t change much if I had to do it over again. Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢d probably buy pre-colored exterior cinder-blocks and use pressure-treated Ã"šÃ‚¾Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚ plywood to cover the surface. I might also put a sheet of Styrofoam on top of the plywood. Oh, and Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢d make the stand a little wider than the tank and leave a 4 inch or so lip along the back. This makes a great step stool as well as a place to mount PVC pipe. Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢d leave the front and sides flush with the tank. Now I have to put my foot inside the H-beam to look over the tank and itââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s not very supportive.

à By the way, donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t forget to factor in the H-beam when configuring any holes in the bottom of the tank for an overflow box. I wound up making the holes out of the back of the overflow box instead of the bottom. This arrangement has worked great for me, but itââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s something to ponder before starting the cutting, drilling and building process.

sanjay.

 

[GSchiemer]

Oh, I should add that I attached the plywood to the top of the H-beams with construction adhesive (e.g., Liquid Nails)

Greg

 

[Justjoe]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6320588#post6320588 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GSchiemer
Oh, I should add that I attached the plywood to the top of the H-beams with construction adhesive (e.g., Liquid Nails)

Greg

Also doubles as a fall out shelter

If I were doing a large tank at home, I'd do the stand this way without question.
Joe

 

[GSchiemer]

Oh, and I placed a piece of plastic sheeting between the H-beams and the blocks so that the metal would not contact the concrete, which might encourage corrosion. I did the same thing between the blocks and ceramic tile floor. I wasn't worried about corrosion here, but I wanted to be able to remove the concrete wall at some point without damaging the floor. I trimmed the plastic sheeting after the concrete dried.

It's been 8 years and it's still standing.

Greg

 

[asnatlas]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6319268#post6319268 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sanjay

Very nice... Wish I would have seen this before I built my wooden stand...

GSchiemer, if you don't mind me asking about how much did you put into this stand back in 97 (mainly the 20ft piece of 4-inch H-beam) ?? What size tank is on this stand, your 500gal ??

 

[tsalter]

no ibeam on the sides?

 

[NY_Englishman]

What a great idea for a stand! Thanks for sharing.

 

[Sanjay]

OK.. contemplating more on the stand.. here is kind of what I am thinking.

the wall is made from block 8" wide and 48" long. Will find the right blocks to make it. The height will be 24".

The steel H beams to be used are W6X9. This has a flange of 3.94" and height of 5.9".

Place a 3/4" plywood sheet + styrofoam sheet on it.

Here is what it would look like.

 

[Bax]

I love that stand idea, I had never seen it before. It may be the perfect solution for me in my sump room.

Sounds like another great project Sanjay.

 

[nolofinwe]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6322383#post6322383 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tsalter
no ibeam on the sides?

Has this been addressed? Is there any support for the sides besides the plywood and intermittent beam?

 

[billpa]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6313937#post6313937 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SERVO
Depending on what you plan to do with the back of the tank, you could consider fading colors from top to bottom. The top is bright blue while the bottom fades to darker tones. I saw this on the display tank at That Fish Place. It gave it a really cool aesthetic. If you use corregated plastic velco'd to the back, any art student at the college could paint a fade off of the primary color.

It is a really cool look although it is not painted. They use a new background called OceanVision

http://www.thatpetplace.com/Product...ds/T1/F05CX+0413+0014/EDP/40504/Itemdy00.aspx

Then they have a light (VHO actinic I believe) that is located behind the tank up at the top which backlights the background. The OceanVision background glows at the point of the bulb and fades out to dark blue. It is a really cool look and I'd like to do that to my next tank. It would look even better if you can avoid having any tank lighting hit the back pane.

Sanjay,

Looks like a good start! I like Joe's idea of drywalling past the front corners to hide some front end plumbing...Im wondering if it makes it more difficult the clean that area or does it even matter because you wont see it

Definitely take some photos of that beast of a stand when its completed.

Good Luck,
billpa

 

[Kent E]

I have some concerns with the design although it has been proven. Steel is strong but it still sags to some degree. Also there is the question of the sides not being supported. As long as those issues are negligible than go ahead.

In my opinion it seems that wood is far cheaper and easier, but must be braced far more often.

 

[Bax]

It seems that with a cross piece of matching H beam along the blocks (these could be welded level with the long beams) and steel or wood posts in the center all concerns could be reconed with. The atractive part is the wide open space ubderneath, even if you add some sort of middle posts for the beams it will be wide open compared to other designs.

 

[GSchiemer]

Sanjay,

It looks great! There was some mention of center and side beams; these are COMPLETELY unnecessary and defeat the purpose of the design. You can support two Sherman Tanks with that stand! Regarding "sag," this is NOT a concern over a 7 foot span with beams of that size. You can use 2x4's or 2x6's on end as cross-beams between the H-beams for additional support, but it's probably unnecessary because you're employing 3 beams in the design.

Greg

 

[GSchiemer]

I'd also consider going a little taller than 24" for the stand height. My blocks are 32" tall. Think about 28" as a minimum height. My last aquarium was lower to the ground and I hated bending over to look into it and to work on it. It actually caused back pain after a while in that position!

Greg

 

[nolofinwe]

I don't doubt that the beams are strong, but I still wonder about the sides. Isn't it preferred to have all the edges of the tank evenly supported?

I'm not knocking the stand, I think it's brilliant, I'm just curious.

 

[zooqi]

You might want to talk to Fred (you know Fred) who built that stand for me for the 600 gallon tank project that I worked on last year. He built a very strong stand that there is no way that tank is moving. I know Ron (saltwater heaven) is selling his stand for 600 (cabentry quality) for cheap but is not your tank's size. Congrat and let me know if you need anything.

 

[GSchiemer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6326484#post6326484 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nolofinwe
I don't doubt that the beams are strong, but I still wonder about the sides. Isn't it preferred to have all the edges of the tank evenly supported?

I'm not knocking the stand, I think it's brilliant, I'm just curious.

I'd only be concerned if there were no beam in the middle. Since Sanjay plans to employ 3 beams and they're spaced fairly close together, he'll have more than enough support at the ends. And don't forget the 3/4" plywood that serves to distribute the weight. I used two beams in my construction so I added blocks of wood between the base of the stand and tops of the concrete wall as additional support at each end.

Greg

 

[dgasmd]

Greg:

What's a Sherman tank??

 

[tsalter]

serious?

http://nora.embl-heidelberg.de/albu...e_2003/109_Sherman_tank_Omaha_beach.sized.jpg