reefkeeper2
Premium Member
Whats the approximate cost of those H beams?
500G (84X48X30)- NOW REAL !
- Thread starter Sanjay
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jnarowe
New member
Sanjay,
You and I have the exact same height restrictions only my tank is 35" tall, the stand is 30" and the foam is about an inch. I have the same overhead clearance over the front 2 feet of the tank and will be using Luminarcs. BUT, I have decided to use them on the left and right sides, while installing a wider & shallower plate shaped reflector in the center. I am using 3 - 1000W MH 20K lamps.
The real trick is how to rig the lamps so they can be adjusted for height and horixontal position. With the limited clearance, It would be very tough to put in a movable hood, and I really don't want to hold the heat in either. Have you thought about attaching the Lumenarcs to a ball bearing track of some kind? I am thinking about some kind of track that can be fstened in the center with a bushing above so the track can rotate 360 deg. and the lamp can be moved on the track. That wold give considerable adjustment while conserving over head space.
As far as stand construction is concerned, why not just use 4 x 4's and plywood? Seems like the whole mess with blocks and beams is not worth the trouble, and a wooden stand would be easier to adjust for level right?
You and I have the exact same height restrictions only my tank is 35" tall, the stand is 30" and the foam is about an inch. I have the same overhead clearance over the front 2 feet of the tank and will be using Luminarcs. BUT, I have decided to use them on the left and right sides, while installing a wider & shallower plate shaped reflector in the center. I am using 3 - 1000W MH 20K lamps.
The real trick is how to rig the lamps so they can be adjusted for height and horixontal position. With the limited clearance, It would be very tough to put in a movable hood, and I really don't want to hold the heat in either. Have you thought about attaching the Lumenarcs to a ball bearing track of some kind? I am thinking about some kind of track that can be fstened in the center with a bushing above so the track can rotate 360 deg. and the lamp can be moved on the track. That wold give considerable adjustment while conserving over head space.
As far as stand construction is concerned, why not just use 4 x 4's and plywood? Seems like the whole mess with blocks and beams is not worth the trouble, and a wooden stand would be easier to adjust for level right?
Stoneyscoral
New member
Blocks and beams are easy to level, just use steel shims if necessary.
NY_Englishman
Premium Member
This steel/concrete block stand is a far more elegant solution than its wooden equivalent; it also affords the extra space underneath and is much easier and quicker to construct. Structurally, it is fine unless you're planning some in-tank tsunamis or expect some major earthquake activity - these would cause some lateral loading thay may have to be compensated for. Build it and the fish will come (not literally, of course). Just my 2 pennies.
Edited for clarity.
Edited for clarity.
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Regarding stands made from 4x4's, I've personally seen three large aquariums crack and leak that were placed on stands constructed of 4x4's. Over time the wood tends to bend, shrink, and shift, especially in an environment of changing humidity. Pressure-treated 4x4's are equally bad. Warping wood has tremendous strength and even small changes in level can be disastrous to a large aquarium.
Greg
NY_Englishman
Premium Member
Sorry Greg, I meant your stand by "steel stand" - I modified my posting accordingly. I'd rather have your stand design than a purely wooden or steel equivalent. Just my preference.
jnarowe
New member
yeah, I see what you guys are saying and I suppose it would give better under-tank access which is a plus. Coming from an earthquake area, I always shy away from brick & mortar. It has a very good initial resistance to shock, but the probability of total failure is much higher.
In my application, I will be using the fish room for the equipment so under-the-stand space isn't really an issue. I certainly wouldn't build a wood stand out of un-seasoned wood either.
I have to build a variety of other "structures" in my fish room like pedastals for auxilary tanks etc. and I think they will all be made out of wood. I have a buddy that offered to weld up stuff, but that leaves me at his availability and then there is the whole rust thing. I don't really want to spend the dough on powder coats etc. I did get a couple of SS work tables at Costco that I think will be very useful.
I am coating everythinig with either West System resin or bilge paint, and let me tell you, bilge paint rocks!
In my application, I will be using the fish room for the equipment so under-the-stand space isn't really an issue. I certainly wouldn't build a wood stand out of un-seasoned wood either.
I have to build a variety of other "structures" in my fish room like pedastals for auxilary tanks etc. and I think they will all be made out of wood. I have a buddy that offered to weld up stuff, but that leaves me at his availability and then there is the whole rust thing. I don't really want to spend the dough on powder coats etc. I did get a couple of SS work tables at Costco that I think will be very useful.
I am coating everythinig with either West System resin or bilge paint, and let me tell you, bilge paint rocks!
Ibwrasstaman
New member
Sanjay,
Do you plan to have the flow from your 2 closed loops blow across the bottom towards the front pane?
Thanks and appreciate you sharing,
Wrassta
Do you plan to have the flow from your 2 closed loops blow across the bottom towards the front pane?
Thanks and appreciate you sharing,
Wrassta
Sanjay
Premium Member
Ok.. now that the holidays are over.. its time to get back to the tank. After some discussions with Will at Aquarium Obsessed I have tweaked the design a bit. Here is what it going to look like.
Had to put a brace for the back wall, but I still wanted my external overflow box.. so the desgin will have 2 large cutouts in the back glass and leave enough room for attaching the brace. I also put in 2 extra 1" bulheads in the overflow box in case I wanted to feed a skimmer direclty via gravity or for any additional closed loop I may want to add later.
sanjay.
Had to put a brace for the back wall, but I still wanted my external overflow box.. so the desgin will have 2 large cutouts in the back glass and leave enough room for attaching the brace. I also put in 2 extra 1" bulheads in the overflow box in case I wanted to feed a skimmer direclty via gravity or for any additional closed loop I may want to add later.
sanjay.
SANJAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How's it going???? Wow....that's going to be a very, very, very nice setup. If you need any help with ANYTHING, please don't hesitate to ask -
I'm getting ready to set up my 180 again - thought this was kinda funny as were both tracking the same dreams right now. Tank will be in same place, but I'm going to make the peninsula a full height wall (I think) with tank built-in. I'm contemplating going acrylic this time..not sure yet though
Anyway, I'll keep planning my "guppy" tank now...you go ahead and plan your "whale" tank.
Mack
How's it going???? Wow....that's going to be a very, very, very nice setup. If you need any help with ANYTHING, please don't hesitate to ask -
I'm getting ready to set up my 180 again - thought this was kinda funny as were both tracking the same dreams right now. Tank will be in same place, but I'm going to make the peninsula a full height wall (I think) with tank built-in. I'm contemplating going acrylic this time..not sure yet though
Anyway, I'll keep planning my "guppy" tank now...you go ahead and plan your "whale" tank.
Mack
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