500G (84X48X30)- NOW REAL !

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Hi Sanjay
Love your tank - im following the thread with a lot of interest. Im hoping to have a similar overflow to yourself and jnarowe's where the water overflows into the back. Could you tell me what the dimensions of your overflow are - ie how long and how deep is the gap that you have?

By the way, are you Sanjay Joshi? If so then your website/pictures was one of the reasons I got into reef keeping about 8 years back! Cheers for that!

-Bob
 
Can someone give an estimate on how much W (H) Beams cost, I tried to google the info but could not find it.

Sanjay, I love the thought process behind this design. Great job your efforts are appreciated by many....:thumbsup:
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7990353#post7990353 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Goldleaf Reef
Can someone give an estimate on how much W (H) Beams cost, I tried to google the info but could not find it.

Sanjay, I love the thought process behind this design. Great job your effrots are appreciated by many....:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

The beams are sold based on weight.... the beams I used are designated W4X13, where the 4 stands for the depth, and the 13 is the weight in lbs/ft

Given the cost of gas these days I have no idea what the steel prices are. Call a few of the steel suppliers in your area they can give you a cost. The cost will also depend on the sizes. These are typically sold in 21ft sections (If I recall correctly) so you may have to pay cutting costs. YOu may get lucky and be able to find precut leftovers that may work for you. Call around and ask.

I can't tell you what I paid for my stand.. since I would have to kill right after that :D

sanjay.
 
What kind of crazy person uses a 6" H Beam in an aquarium. :D :D I used 6" and it cost about $650 material and welding was another cost. After I got the material a friend told me he could get it for less but it was too late. Like Sanjay said that it depends on the weight. I was going to go with 4" but for the defference which was not much I went with 6" and this is for a 1200 gallon tank 10'X5'X3' I had to use middle legs with mine even if I did not have to. Everybody says that is too much but I can sleep better. One more extra thing is that legs are 6" square rods.
 
Sanjay
When you were rounding up different Idea's you designed a 2" tubular stand (page 5), Do you think think this stand will work for an 8' tank? I would like to use a similar design for my 500.
Your tank is awesome keep up the good work
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7988594#post7988594 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bjmycroft
Hi Sanjay
Love your tank - im following the thread with a lot of interest. Im hoping to have a similar overflow to yourself and jnarowe's where the water overflows into the back. Could you tell me what the dimensions of your overflow are - ie how long and how deep is the gap that you have?

By the way, are you Sanjay Joshi? If so then your website/pictures was one of the reasons I got into reef keeping about 8 years back! Cheers for that!

-Bob
Click to expand...

The 2 slots cut in the back pane are each 24" long and 2" in height. the overflow box runs the length of the tank and is 6" wide and 12" tall.


yes, I am THE Sanjay Joshi..... Ok.. so you can now blame me for getting you into a large tank. :D :D

sanjay.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7992922#post7992922 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cyberdude47
Sanjay
When you were rounding up different Idea's you designed a 2" tubular stand (page 5), Do you think think this stand will work for an 8' tank? I would like to use a similar design for my 500.
Your tank is awesome keep up the good work
Click to expand...

The design I posted may not be suitable for an 8' tank without a center support. I was crunching some numbers and felt that the deflection at the center may be more than I wanted with that design. The one that is posted below it will work better.

sanjay.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7999582#post7999582 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by olemos
Sanjay, what software did you use to make the design of the tank that you show on your first post?
Click to expand...

That was done in Pro-Engineer.

I have seen good models with google's sketch up, its free.

sanjay.
 
Work won't be done for a while as far as progress goes guys, the tank I heard has a scratch on the front of it so the tank or moreso the front panel of glass which is scratched has to be removed, all the sides cleaned, silicone removed, and a new piece of glass put in its place and resealed. Then begins the wait for it to cure. Sorry to hear sanjay, I was looking forward to more progress pictures as well, keep us updated.
 
I thought this aquarium will be running by now and it sounds like Dr. will be waiting a while untill his tank is ready. Hope this does not take long as we were putting our 1200 gallon based on what Sanjay has his. The best way to check for scratches is to have it under a light (MH the best) and you can see the scratches.
 
Well, sometimes things happen and you have to deal with it. I saw the scratches right after the MH halides were turned on. As you can see from the developments of my system, the MH were one of the last things that went into place. In retrospect, I wish I had put the lights as soon as the tank was in place and seen them earlier.

I did not want to post anything about this before only because I was in communications with AO about it, and did not want any misinformation to tarnish thier repuation. I know how things propogate on the internet. !!!!

I have been communicating with Aquarium Obsessed about it, and they have very graciously offered to replace the front panel, without attempting to point blame. After long deliberation on my part I decieded it might be best to accept thier offer, even if it meant some hassles for me. I admire thier willingness to do so at thier own cost. I do not know many companies that would step up to the plate in this manner.

I just hope that this happens soon, and this does not drag for several months. I guess the speed at which things happen will be a good indication of AO's customer service.

So far I am still very satisfied with AO, thier workmanship on the tank and thier customer service. How soon my tank gets back into service will dictate the final level of satisfaction and service quality.

sanjay.
 
The bad part about it that you can see it clean and is from inside or it would've been fine if is in the back. If I found any in our tank I know to blame the beer party we had in the tank (not kidding). :)
 
AO, Great Customer Service, I like dealing with people who rather take care of it, then let it fester...

Sanjay by holiday time you should up and running...
 
That is a real pain to hear Sanjay. Hopefully things will be taken care soon. I guess you can use the time now to do a lot of other things before the tank gets repaired. That way when it is fixed and cured all is left is adding water.
 
Well, that is the plan now, to get everything taken care of so when all systems are go.. it will just be add rock and water.

Since I have to drain the tank anyway now, I will set up a system using this water to cure the rock, while I am waiting, and cure it outside the tank.

Plus this will give me some time to catch up on other cool projects in the works, like the skimmer and my device to rotate a tunze pump.

sanjay.
 
Last week I finally got my water change system and evaporation refill system in place and debugging it now.

The main design requirements here were

1) to be able to do at least a 75G water change without lifting
2) be able to easily extract RO and saltwater for my other tanks from the same system
3) Put in some measures to avoid spilling in case of sensor failures


So here is the conceptual sketch I started with. I had reeffiller and solenoids and sensors from my previous system.

waterchange1.gif


The overflow standpipe takes care of spillage by taking the overflow water to the drain (still need to test this).

Water can be easily drawn from the tanks with the ball valves for my other tanks.

Saltwater can be easily added to the sump nearby for the water change by hooking up a hose to the outlet ball valve.


This is how it got implemented.

waterchange-pic.gif


A few interesting things occured while debugging. I ran the line from the reef filler pump to the sump. As soon as the reef filler started pumping, it created a siphon. Duh.. the RO tank is higher than the sump :D Go to watch out for the sneaky siphon and gravity. I am going to have to let the reef filler drip into the tank (or overflow box).

With this I think I have all the subsystems working, tested and debugged. Just need to caliberate the salt additions for making saltwater.

Water change will be a lot easier.. a turn of few valves, and easy hose hookups. May be I'll be doing water changes more regularly now. :D


sanjay.
 
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