500G (84X48X30)- NOW REAL !

[dgasmd]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7935863#post7935863 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cyberdude47
Just a question, What is everyone's opinion about having a wavemaker on two sequence darts for my closed loops? I cannot get any stright opinions about this.

Without taking too much attention away from Sanjay's thread, it is not advisable. These pumps are not designed for on/off frequently and neither are their seals.

 

[cyberdude47]

Sorry about the hijack
Thanks for the info

 

[Sanjay]

As long as you are talking about the hardware I am using, its not a hijack.

Right now I temporarily have my old skimmer hooked up, until the needle wheel with the bubble king red dragon pump gets built.

Hopefully, it will hold me over through the rock cure and the initial months of the tank.

sanjay.

 

[hahnmeister]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7936196#post7936196 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dgasmd
Without taking too much attention away from Sanjay's thread, it is not advisable. These pumps are not designed for on/off frequently and neither are their seals.

Is he talking about putting them on an electric wave timer, or could he be talking about putting oceansmotions on the outputs?

 

[Sanjay]

Finished off the last piece of plumbing loop. A filteration manifold teed off the main circulation pump, 1" feed line with 1/2" lines comming off it. This will allow me to feed the Ca reactor, Phosphate remover and the Carbon filters. Each one is individually controlled and can swivel due to the unions to allow for different angles if desired. As you can see I have plumbed the Deltec Fluidized Filter directly to one of the outlets. Now I just need to get another one of the Deltec Fludized filter and plumb that in for Carbon. I just finished hooking up the Ca reactor to the first of the outlets on the manifold.

sanjay.

 

[marino420td]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7825495#post7825495 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sanjay
To open and close the front lid of the tank, I finally got the gas springs working right. After several trials with different sizes, I ended up with the 40 lbs version. It works great....keep the lid shut tight when closed and in the open position when opened. It has a nice slow open just like the car trunks. Thanks for the idea moonpod.

Sorry if I missed where you covered this already but where did you get those gas springs? And how did you know what size would handle the job? Did you just have to buy several different sizes and try them all until one worked?

Awesome job on the tank!

 

[Sanjay]

I got the gas springs from mcmaster carr. They have a formula to determine which you would need.. but I found that the formula did not do it. The ones I got based ont eh formula were too week to hold it open. So I just went and ordered a 30Lb and 40 lbs set and tried them both, and returned the ones that did not work.

sanjay.

 

[mrcrab]

Sanjay,

Question for you and GSchiemer regarding the stand. My 96' X 30" X 30" is being built as we speak. I was going with the Scheimer stand because I love the open bottom where I was planning on putting my sump and frag tank.

Here's my builder's response to the stand:

I can only offer my 45 yrs of experience to suggest, that closed loop framing - as I suggested - would give better support.
You will probably get away with omitting the closed loop framing, but why take a chance?

Also, that other tank was a little shorter, than yours. I recommend supports at mid lenght, as even the steel "I" beam will bend slightly with the 8ft span.

The aquarium must be firmly supported around it's perimeter.

I was planning on using the cinder block pillars as in Greg's and the 3 I-beam configuration of yours with a catwalk around it.
Looking for yours and Greg's thoughts on this matter.

Thanks

 

[Sanjay]

My tank is 84" long, and I have no support in the middle of that span.

I think Greg's tank is 96" long and he has no support. His tank has been setup for over 10 years I think.

i do not see a problem with the I beam deflection in the middle, especially since you will have 3 I beams supporting the weight.

sanjay.

 

[Sanjay]

I should have mentioned that I have a 4" I beam (an H beam really). If you are concerned about deflection, you could go with a 6" H beam

sanjay.

 

[mrcrab]

Thanks Sanjay,

Nice tank BTW. What did you decide to do about the closed loop? I'm going through the same thing now. Would prefer not to have it, but I need to make a decision soon as if I do go CL I'll have to have it drilled and he's starting the build today.

I've ordered a Vortech to see what it'll do on my 120, but see some people are having issues with them. I was thinking 2 vortech's and some modded mj's for flow. What do you think?

Thanks
Barry

 

[mrcrab]

Another question if you don't mind Sanjay? I've stolen alot of your ideas for my setup. The swirls your using...are those 1"? I have 2 and I'll be using those as returns. If 1" swirls, what size holes did you have drilled in the eurobracing for those?

Thanks Again,
Barry

 

[mrcrab]

More annoying questions if you don't mind.

The I-beams are they S-type or W-type or does it even matter?
Which dimension of the beam is 4", height or width?

S-Type

W-Type

P.S. I'll be starting my own thread as soon as I have the first set of pics from the tank builder.

Thanks again for your help,
Barry

 

[Sanjay]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7980642#post7980642 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mrcrab
Thanks Sanjay,

Nice tank BTW. What did you decide to do about the closed loop? I'm going through the same thing now. Would prefer not to have it, but I need to make a decision soon as if I do go CL I'll have to have it drilled and he's starting the build today.

I've ordered a Vortech to see what it'll do on my 120, but see some people are having issues with them. I was thinking 2 vortech's and some modded mj's for flow. What do you think?

Thanks
Barry

Barry:

Since I already had the closed loops drilled and the pumps for the closed loops bought, I decieded to go with the closed loops. I still like the concept of the closed loop, but I feel that with the pumps technology available today (Tunze stream, vortech, etc) I would skip the closed loop.

People argue that the closed loops are cheaper.. but I do not think that is true with large tanks. For example, the cost of one of my closed loop with a Dart pump + 2" true union ball valve + 1.5" true union ball valves and all the plumbing + drilling of the tank hole and bulhead... it will pretty much add up to the cost of a tunze or stream. Plus you have have lower electrical use with these smaller pumps and do not loose in flow.

the moded MJ's are too weak for large tanks.

sanjay.

 

[Sanjay]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7983373#post7983373 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mrcrab
Another question if you don't mind Sanjay? I've stolen alot of your ideas for my setup. The swirls your using...are those 1"? I have 2 and I'll be using those as returns. If 1" swirls, what size holes did you have drilled in the eurobracing for those?

Thanks Again,
Barry

The swirls are 1". I had them drilled to a size bigger than the straight black peice that sticks out of the sea swirl. I forget the exact dimensions. Making the hole so that the elbow would also go through it would have required a much larger hole and was not recommended by the tank builder. So to insert and remove the sea swirl I actually have to first remove the elbow, insert the sea swirl and then put the elbow back in.

Also, I would have liked the holes closer to the corners, but again I was told that structurally it would not be a good thing to have them that close to the edges of the Eurobrace.



sanjay.

 

[mrcrab]

Thanks,

I came to the same conclusion this afternoon and the energy savings is what made the final decision plus the fact that the back of my tank will be in the garage and I was afraid of some sort of accidental disaster with a 9 year old a skateboard and knocked plumbing.

 

[Sanjay]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7984702#post7984702 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mrcrab
More annoying questions if you don't mind.

The I-beams are they S-type or W-type or does it even matter?
Which dimension of the beam is 4", height or width?

S-Type

W-Type

P.S. I'll be starting my own thread as soon as I have the first set of pics from the tank builder.

Thanks again for your help,
Barry

You want the W type beam (wide beam) its also called H beam since the 2 flanges are equal in length. In an I beam the 2 flanges do not have to be equal.

The 4" refers to the depth d in your figures.

sanjay.

 

[mrcrab]

Thanks again for all your help. Should be picking mine up in about 3 weeks.

I'm sure you realize that there are lighting questions to come. I'll be using my 6' Maristar fixture off my 120 with 3 X 14K Ushio 250w DE's. How is your T-5 knowledge base?

 

[dgasmd]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7985569#post7985569 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sanjay
Since I already had the closed loops drilled and the pumps for the closed loops bought, I decieded to go with the closed loops. I still like the concept of the closed loop, but I feel that with the pumps technology available today (Tunze stream, vortech, etc) I would skip the closed loop.

People argue that the closed loops are cheaper.. but I do not think that is true with large tanks. For example, the cost of one of my closed loop with a Dart pump + 2" true union ball valve + 1.5" true union ball valves and all the plumbing + drilling of the tank hole and bulhead... it will pretty much add up to the cost of a tunze or stream. Plus you have have lower electrical use with these smaller pumps and do not loose in flow.

the moded MJ's are too weak for large tanks.

Sanjay:

I am not trying to be argumentative here since this is very much my personal opinion only after being to the 2 extremes of the rainbow here. I originally had 4 sequence 5800 with close loops and went to replace them with 8 tunze streams 6200. I can tell you for a fact they are completely different types of flow and different intensity as well. However, the tunzes don't hold a candle flow wise to the close loops despite their claims of equal flow rate. I have found that the combination of both has the ultimate advantage. Not onyl can you cut down to half maybe your cose loops cutting the energy expense and the heat they add, but you also end up with pumps that allow you to put an easy solution should the power go. I can easily hook up a power inverter or a computer battery back up module to the tunzes to run for hours where hooking up the close loops may require a generator. If I had to compare equal flows here, I would say the tunze stream 6200 is roughly equal to a dart, but certainly not much more than that.

Obviously, it also depends on what you are keeping too as you will not need anywhere near as much flow with softies or FO as you would with SPS. However, I do think that because they are very different flows, one can certainly benefit very much from both rather than one or the other.

 

[WDLV]

I can definately attest to the heat. I have been having summer heat issues lately. It's been ranging 79-83. My preference is a stable 78 deg.
I shut off one of the Sequence Reeflo barracudas (just for a flow variation) and overnight my temp dropped from 83 to 77.

My sump is on the floor and the system volume is only about 300 gallons.
I decided to save up for an oceans motions 8 way. This will give me the intensity I want, the power I want and the random flow that I want. The heat will be lower, and the electrical usage will be lower too... until I find another use for the pump.

BTW. It's looking nice Sanjay. I didn't realize you were going to put the new tank in the place of the old one. I'm glad to see the dream realized.