500G (84X48X30)- NOW REAL !

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The ones I have are the AUBE brand model TI033

According to the specs its rated for

2400 W max, 120 V, 50/60 Hz 20 A 1 Hp

If I remember correctly, these are supposed to work with inductive loads like the MH ballast.

There are some intermatic brand timers that are more limited in working with inductive loads.

sanjay.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8112130#post8112130 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sanjay
The ones I have are the AUBE brand model TI033

According to the specs its rated for

2400 W max, 120 V, 50/60 Hz 20 A 1 Hp

If I remember correctly, these are supposed to work with inductive loads like the MH ballast.

There are some intermatic brand timers that are more limited in working with inductive loads.

sanjay.
thanks for the info. looked at them again and they are intermatic. luckily I read the package before i openned them so i can take them back.
 
Totally agree on dark. Have done it both ways several times and without prevents algea problems later. After a few weeks (nitrates show up) you can put some actinic on if you want. This will help the corraline but usually keep themicro algea at bay. But most importantly dark for a few weeks at first.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8110178#post8110178 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dgasmd

I love those containers. They are the perfect sump if one has the room for it. I wished I had a local way of getting a couple of them. I would have used them for sumps. Ordering would have been cost prohibitive for me at the time. I am lucky enough to have found a used, nearly new condition, 460g acrylic tank for pennies to use instead.

I like those containers too. I got a long time ago from Joy at harbor aquatics, to use a look down reef tank I wanted to set up. I got used as my reflector testing unit. I wanted to use it as a sump but I cout not fit it under the tank. I takes up too much room. Right now its temporarily set up to cure the rock.

sanjay.
 
Here comes the rock.....


After the airlines screwing things up with my rock... took almost 48 hrs to get it to me, here it is arriving in my van.. at 11:30 PM at night !!! What a way to spend the night... unpacking rock.

rockincar1.gif


I decieded to get the tonga ultra rainbow or whatever its being called this month. I was told this rock came in decent sized peices and looked like chunks of dead coral skeleton. I did not want very large peices since I wanted to be able to handle the peices easily and be able to aquascape as I want by building with medium sized peices.

After making my poor wife help me at midnight get the stuff out of the car and into the basement, here it is waiting to be opened. No wonder my friends think my wife is a saint.:D

rock-wait-unload.gif


Being cramped for space, I could not open all the boxes and lay the rock out and take some good pictures... so here are some rock pics. Its looks much better than the pictures show. The peices are nice size with lots of them look like large dead table acros turned to live rock.

rockinbox2.gif


rock2.gif


Its hard to open rock boxes and take pictures at the same time, and try to get it done quickly enough so that I would not be up too late. So there are not too many rock pictures yet. I'll get more when I start building the rock structures I want.

Here are the rocks in the water, ready to skink up my house.

rock-water.gif


The skimmer started to pull out stuff right away before I was even done putting the rock in.

skimmer2.gif


Now back to waiting....

sanjay.
 
While I am waiting and the rock is curing, its time to start thinking about landscaping the tank.

I am not a big fan of the bare bottom look, so the tank will have some sand in it. I am thinking of some ways to keep the sand contained so it stays out from under the rocks and more towards the front of the tank. One idea that I have that may work is to glue in some 90 L channel PVC to the bottom to create the sand barrier.

I am also thinking of create a rubble zone with all the broken up live rock peices.

For stacking the rock, the plan is to try to attach the rocks with Throrite and try to use some PVC rods/pipe to hold things in place.

I like what Ralphp and pwhitby did to make rock pillars. I will try that.

Any other great aquascaping ideas that you have come across ?

sanjay.
 
I think the pvc angle will be a lost cause, unfortunately. It'll just make it harder to retrieve the sand that WILL go over the wall.
How about some "cast" flat sandbed looking aragocrete with a thin layer between the pieces once put in place?
 
Some pillar and other ideas I'm considering:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=856714&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=804870&perpage=25&pagenumber=4

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=686757&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=759531&perpage=25&pagenumber=7

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=665314&perpage=25&pagenumber=29

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=853513&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

The only concerns I have with the PVC like pwhitby's is the ability for an unwanted critter to make it's home there. If my memory serves me, Steve Weist, Oregon Reef wound up having to pull a major part of his system apart due to a 6 or 7 foot long worm that took up residence and was feasting on his corals! :eek1:
It didn't come in that size but grew to that in the tank undetected.

I was thinking of filling mine with sand so they aren't bouyant and gluing caps on the ends to avoid squatters.

I know you were looking for a water change top-off sytem also. You might get some ideas here:

http://www.high-velocity.org/saltcity/viewtopic.php?p=5319#5319

HTH
Barry
aka mrcrab
 
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Regarding the sandbed issue I am going with a SSB also as I like the look. I won't be using a fine sand, probably caribsea's:

http://www.carib-sea.com/index.html

Flamingo Reef Sand - This all natural product has identical properties to Special Grade Reef Sand but with natural pink highlights. Grain size 1.0 - 2.0 mm.

Not too fine or too chunky.

I remember a post, can't find it now, where someone did the rubble thing and wound up taking it out as it collected more rubbish than a sandbed.

I was thinking of glueing PVC pieces on the bottom of my pillars a bit higher than I want the sandbed. That should allow flow under the rockwork
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8140480#post8140480 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sanjay

I am not a big fan of the bare bottom look, so the tank will have some sand in it. I am thinking of some ways to keep the sand contained so it stays out from under the rocks and more towards the front of the tank. One idea that I have that may work is to glue in some 90 L channel PVC to the bottom to create the sand barrier.

I am also thinking of create a rubble zone with all the broken up live rock peices.

Any other great aquascaping ideas that you have come across ?

sanjay.

I was thinking aragacrete wall as well. I did this in a 40B to create a SSB and DSB terraced areas within the same tank (I love Jawfish) by using 4" strips of acrylic, and bonding them into 'L' shapes, then filling in the 'L' with aragacrete. The bottom and back are acrylic, but the front looks like a rock ledge. Then you can simply scoot the rock strips around as desired w/o massive scraping because the bottoms are acrylic. To cover up the top of the acrylic, I was sure to let some of the aragacrete spill over the top. I should have some pics of me making them somewhere here... Ill look tomorrow if you are interested. The final results look great. I use a mix of 1 part portlant to 3 parts 2-5mm arag, to 2 parts fine crushed coral.... looks like LR when I am done. I used to use southdown, but thats too fine and leaves the aragacrete bright white since I use Portland Type 3 for better curing. I wouldnt even worry so much about curing in such a large system though... after a week or so of curing, I doubt a few terracing strips would do much to your pH. The cool thing about the aragacrete is that you can make little 'cups', frag mounting holes, and flat parts for corals... or just let the whole thing get covered in GSP... either way it looks great. You could keep all your sand up front for looks, with the fake walls, and leave the back BB.

Or, if you dont like the terracing idea as much (it doesnt really do much to really keep the sand from getting blown around... its just a retaining wall), you could sub large parts of the sand bed with aragacrete plates. Pretty much large (like 18"x36") 1-3" thick plates of textured aragacrete that can get covered up with sand, but if the flow exposes one, at least its not bare glass. The problem with this is that it doesnt really keep the sand up front. Perhaps the best idea is a combo of the two... plates and strips... hey, wait... thats a trough! Some fake-rock troughs would keep the sand up front, and keep the glass from being exposed.

These probems are why I just said 'screw it' with a small desktop 5.5g nano I made and made two walls (covers the overflow baffle) as well as the whole bottom out of aragacrete. Its not bare bottom reef, its not sand... its a stone bottom reef!

If you need something fast, I know someone nearby with a kiln that does calcium rich white clay rocks and fires them in a kiln... identical to Tunze rocks. They are also high in iron, so they get covered in coralline within months and look like LR. Best of all... there is no curing time like with aragacrete. Perhaps for something like this... some strips/plates of ceramic would be nice.
 
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How many people get a chance like you Sanjay to do landscaping the tank different. How about landscaping it while the front pannel is off when AO comes to replace the front pannel. :) Let them take it off and tell them to give you an hour or two to put your rocks around and then tell them to go ahead and do what they were suppose to do (joking).
 
Sanjay, I am bothered with your lighting and I know your the lighting guru. 500gal (84x48x30) is what you have, so how do 3 MH's w/lumenarcs on 400 watts each cover that ground?

Im in the middle of construction on mine and its 96 x 42 x 36 and im considering going with 8 x 400watt Mh's icecaps w/ushios and the lumenarcs not even including the actinics which are 160 watts front & back.
 
well, right now I am running 4 X400W MH only on a 96"X42X30" tank at penn state for past 7 years. And we have have great success with just that set up in Lumen arc reflectors.

So really I do not see why 3 would not work well on my tank that is 12" smaller in length. Plus with proper aquascaping I know I can get away with 3 X400W on my tank.

sanjay.
 
Now you did it, Youve got me thinking again. hmmm, I could cut mine down by 50% and go with just four MH's. At 18cents a kilowatt, thats huge savings.

Sanjay, if your right, Ill need your address. you will be receiving a gift from me every year.
 
I'M DOIN 4-400'S IN LUMENARCS ON 108 X 48 X 32 BUT I DO PLAN ON USING T5'S FOR SUPPLEMENTATION - SANJAYS GOT IT RIGHT CUS I BURN 3 -400'S IN LUMENARCS ON MY 96 X 30 X 36 RIGHT NOW-
 
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