500G (84X48X30)- NOW REAL !

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Beautiful dog and great looking frags :D. I also echo was MaxxII said about dips/QT. Having lost almost all of our acros and having to start over due to AEFWs, we dip everything, no matter what, and won't deal with colonies any more (too many places for eggs to hitch hike on them). I also agree with what you said Sanjay about how far the hobby has come with all of the great aquacultured vendors. Seeing yours makes me even more antsy about getting our new tank setup :D. Hopefully we can get the pad poured this weekend and get it cured for the stand arrival in about 2 weeks :).
 
That looks awesome. If you don't mind, how much did that cost you? It looks about like the order I'm going to need to make soon.
 
Sparkss and MaxII,

Sorry for the hijack and ignorance. What is AEFW and what is your quarentine procedure?

Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8707163#post8707163 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mrcrab

Sorry for the hijack and ignorance. What is AEFW ...

Thanks

I believe AEFW refers to "Acro Eating Flat Worms".
 
Sparkss and MaxII,

Sorry for the hijack and ignorance. What is AEFW and what is your quarentine procedure?

Thanks

Mr Crab,
AEFW's = Acro Eating FlatWorms = pestilence from hell.

They are a species (as of yet unidentified to my knowledge) of clear or transparent tan flatworm that feeds exclusively on the flesh of acropora corals. They dont touch montiporas, stylophora's etc....nothing but acros. And they make redbugs very easy to deal with by comparison.
There are several threads about them in the SPS forum, very informative with lots of detailed pics to help you determine if you have them or not.

They are very difficult to erradicate becuase they hang on to the coral and the treatements that are effective at killing them, are also stressful on the coral. Iodine is effective at killing some of them, but does not touch the eggs. When the eggs hatch, the new flatworms are microscopic, and alledgedly capable of breeding.....
The most effective treatment I'm aware of is Levamasole in a QT tank. From what I gather, coral losses with Levamasole are in the 20% range...meaning you can expect to lose 20% of your corals to the treatment.
Iodine dips also work, but the successive (every week) dip of iodine will seriously stress out your corals as well...mortality this way is also significant.

Bottom line, treat with your poison of choice, every week for about a month. Keep the acros separate during the QT period, and place the surviving corals in the tank.

I cannot begin to describe how frustrating it is to loose an entire tank of acros to a tiny parasite. Like Sparkss, all of my future acros will be QT'd and treated before going into my tank. I even contemplated no longer keeping acros because of these critters.

Nick
 
Thanks MaxxII,

Sounds like the cure is nearly as bad as the parasite. Do you know if Interceptor has any effect on these critters and their eggs? If not, it takes 30 days to break the breeding cycle with the other meds?

Thanks Again
 
Interceptor does not work on these as they dont have chitin. Interceptor is a chitin inhibitor. The idea is to do repeated dips to break the life cycle....they will not survive w/o acros for more than 7 days....

Nick
 
Lol... thats funny. So... Sanjay.... when's the next 'open house'? Ill bring a cooler full of booze, and leave with it full of something else.
 
Here's my coast-coast external overflow with one, horizontal tooth over the top. The overflow dam slides up and down to adjust water level, to level the back, and to adjust the width of the gap below the tooth.

user_4802_137-3748A_IMG.JPG


The Top dark blue is the painted back wall of the overflow. The 3/4 inch tall dark looking piece is the horizontal, glass tooth (clear), and the bright blue is the plexiglass that I used to make the "Dam" over which the water will flow. Below that is the back wall of the aquarium which is painted blue.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8722336#post8722336 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hampton
Here's my coast-coast external overflow with one, horizontal tooth over the top. The overflow dam slides up and down to adjust water level, to level the back, and to adjust the width of the gap below the tooth.

The Top dark blue is the painted back wall of the overflow. The 3/4 inch tall dark looking piece is the horizontal, glass tooth (clear), and the bright blue is the plexiglass that I used to make the "Dam" over which the water will flow. Below that is the back wall of the aquarium which is painted blue.

I don't understand what you mean by gap below the tooth. So you basically have a horizontal peice that you adjust up and down to set the water level. How are you adjusting this peice ?

sanjay.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8722698#post8722698 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by concept3
hey sanjay! how are the frags doing?

The corals I got from you are all doing great. I am just sitting and watching them grow.. its worse than watching grass grow. :D

sanjay.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8681669#post8681669 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ironsheikh
I need a lesson in pillar formation ---Ive never been happy w/ my aquascape. I like the raised live rock look just like this

What do you need to know. ?

sanjay.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8707093#post8707093 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hampton
That looks awesome. If you don't mind, how much did that cost you? It looks about like the order I'm going to need to make soon.

We don't talk $$s here.....but if you must know its easy to figure out. There are 20 frags here and check thier website for prices., it will give you a good idea of cost.

sanjay.
 
Sanjay,

This is a pic of the dam that slips over the back wall of the tank. I put 5 dabs of silicone outside the back wall in the overflow box to provide resistance. The fit is such that you can move it up and down, but it won't slip.

The horizontal tooth is a piece of glass that runs the length of the back wall. It sits above the dam. The gap between the two is adjustable, but the goal is to keep the gap as small as possible while keeping the upper piece dry. I hope it's about a 3/16" gap - No critters over the back, yet no resistance for surface proteins.

user_4802_137-3735A_IMG.JPG
 
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