500G (84X48X30)- NOW REAL !

A few more interesting pics for you picture junkies :-)


This is a cyphastrea frag I got from RandyO. It was more greener base in his tank, but in mine its more of a yellowish green color, but the red seems to have got more brighter.

cyphastrea-090307.gif


This is an efflatounaria sp. Almost like a cespitularia but does not have the irridiance. The color is not as purple as in the picture, but it does show a light shade of bluish purple. I just like how it came out stronger in the picture.

efflatounaria-2-090307.gif


sanjay.
 
I had read in a different thread that you had used fiberglassarrows/ rods for doing your rock work.

I am wondering if you have noticed any illeffects from the fiber glass? Has it broke down at all? Or have you seen anything nippng at it?

And great build!!
 
Got back form MACNA, and came home with my skimmer. Thanks to Steve (Coral Dynamics) and Will for bring it with them. the skimmer is built, or I should say overbuilt as usual, by my friend Fergy. Gave it all the potential bells and whistles - bubbleking skimmer pump, bubble plate, wet neck, and ability to hook up a wash down system.

Now I just need to get it hooked up. the thing is a beautiful beast. :-) I am thinking of may be swapping out the Bubble King 1500 pump for a 2000.

skimmer-final-1.gif


sanjay.
 
Sweet Sanjay...why is the reflection on the wall speckled? Seems like Cast acrylic would project a clear reflection right? That pump does "look" a little small! :lol:

How are you going to supply the wet neck?
 
You might want to add a air vent on the cup so you can vent all the stinky humid air outside rather than musking up the basement.

Looks like a 12" diameter, 36" tall, 9-10" diameter plate, with a 5" ID wetneck. That pump will give you about 1100lph of air though at that amount of back pressure I bet... which is good, because that neck is a bit on the small side for a wetneck. 5" is what a regular neck should be for 1000lph of air. A wetneck should be about 20% larger to prevent the 'foam cannon' effect which can result in easy overflows. Just something to watch, but putting a RD 2000 on there might be a bit much. It would be something like 1700lph of air, and that would require a 6" regular neck... and a 7-8" wetneck. Not saying it cant be done, but you will have to lower your water level so its somewhere in the cone, so alot of the foam will condense/deposit in the cone/neck rather than in the cup. Its the only way to prevent the 'foam cannon' overflow. Or, perhaps Coral Dynamics can make a larger diameter neck.
 
hey Hahn, I am looking into dealing with my neck and a couple of things come to mind. One is buying or making a brush cleaner, and th eother is a wet neck. Can you give me the pros and cons? Maybe in a PM to not hi-jack Sanjay's thread...I really want to understand these methods before I decide on which one to do.
 
Both do about the same thing really... the differences are subtle, but the major function of both is the same. If anything, I suppose the brush means something is going to be sticking in the foam, and when it cleans, it could drop chunks of skimmate back into the skimmer, as well as disrupting the head. Wetnecks dont have this problem, since they run constantly... but the drawback is that very few makers seem to be able to get them just right. Sometimes levelling the skimmer is the critical component, sometimes the edge of the wetneck slot (roundover, angle bevel, or straight angle) as well as the thickness of the slot just isnt done right. I dont know. I havent had alot of experience with wetnecks that dont work, but I hear about them. The only one I saw was pretty obvious though, the slot was very thick and not machined well.

SCH setups can also be made to clean more of the inside of the cup though too... the inside of the lid, outside of the neck, etc... not that these things are super critical. So like I said... the differences will really come down to how well they are implimented rather than what they do.
 
Well, I would like to implement one or the other. It seems the wet neck would be easier to install overall, but I have no experience with them and have never seen one in person. Any threads you know of?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10801962#post10801962 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
You might want to add a air vent on the cup so you can vent all the stinky humid air outside rather than musking up the basement.

Looks like a 12" diameter, 36" tall, 9-10" diameter plate, with a 5" ID wetneck. That pump will give you about 1100lph of air though at that amount of back pressure I bet... which is good, because that neck is a bit on the small side for a wetneck. 5" is what a regular neck should be for 1000lph of air. A wetneck should be about 20% larger to prevent the 'foam cannon' effect which can result in easy overflows. Just something to watch, but putting a RD 2000 on there might be a bit much. It would be something like 1700lph of air, and that would require a 6" regular neck... and a 7-8" wetneck. Not saying it cant be done, but you will have to lower your water level so its somewhere in the cone, so alot of the foam will condense/deposit in the cone/neck rather than in the cup. Its the only way to prevent the 'foam cannon' overflow. Or, perhaps Coral Dynamics can make a larger diameter neck.
Click to expand...

Good point about the air vent. Will ahve to look into that.

Its 12' diameter, 24" tall body (withiout the cone) and 40 inches tall (from bottom to top). The wet neck is actually 4".

So you think the 1500 would be the most the skimmer would be able to handle with the neck constraint. OK. then I might have to stay with the pump I have.

My plan is to run it first without the wet neck see how it does and go from there.

sanjay.
 
4" diameter? Thats too small for even 1000lph + wetneck IME. That thing is going to be a foam cannon. You would have to lower the water level to be in the cone section... at which height the wetneck's output will fall into the foam being formed, rather than cling to the sides of the skimmer.

Try it and see for yourself, but 'my way' of doing it would have meant a 6" diameter for the wetneck. Hey, if things dont work out... have them make a better proportioned cone/neck. The calculated 'ideal' for neck diameter is about 60-70 lph per square inch of neck. Going slightly above (like 80) is alright, but when you get over 90, or say... 100+, you tend to have overflow problems easier. The large Euroreefs tend to have this problem... 3000lph of air through a 5.5" neck = trouble. Tom Obrecht tried out the RC 750 and found this to be very true (daily overflows despite all kinds of adjustments). Going under 50 lph/square inch also results in collection problems... the head drains too fast and deposits inside the neck are more frequent. Add 15-20% to the diameter of the neck for a wetneck. Those are just my calculations.

A 6" diameter neck would get you in the ballpark for using the 2000 pump as well. Then again... Klaus should be releasing the loopwheel impellers for all the Red Dragons soon (not just the 2500), and those things seem to boost air intake by about 50%, so your current pump might be able to pull the same.
 
Can't you throttle back the air intake a bit to adjust for a smaller neck, if it does create a foam cannon ?

sanjay.
 
Here is my latest addition to the reef. Any guesses what this fish is ?

butterfly-1.gif


butterfly-2.gif


I also added a pair of flame hawks...no god pic yet, since they like to hide a lot or hang in places where its difficult to get good pics.

sanjay.
 
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