Sorry for the late reply. Here you go! If I could do it over again I would have ordered a little bit higher quality bolts and t-nuts. I ordered the economy ones and since the tank has been on the stand the support beams have dropped 1/16-3/16" on some sides. I believe it's due to the nature of the "economy" style t-nuts. They are smooth and the more expensive ones had ribs on them which, in theory, should help the t-nuts grip on the t-slot aluminum.
The tank is doing well, the STN on my Cali Tort has stopped. I also stopped dosing Potassium Nitrate. My tank's nitrate was only 2.5 ppm but I believed it was due to the increase in Nitrate that only that one corals started to STN.
Currently all corals are recovering well from the tank change and lighting change on the display. The corals in the display are experiencing a "brown out" but all should be well with time. I set the Mitra LX7s on acclimation mode from 30% to start until 100% and gave the lights 1 month to get there. However, even though the acclimation process goes to 100% my lights never go above 80% intensity at any one point.
I am still playing with the lighting schedule and trying out different profiles people already made to see which one I like. In the end I either make my own or just use a profile someone else made.
No more talking, here's some shots of my tank...
FTS "Shot at 10-12k"
New Mitra LX7
Right Side FTS
Another FTS w/Sump "I need to finish the holes I patched on the wall behind the tank, Ignore that please"
The frag tank took the least hit and almost none of the corals suffered loss of color or STN/RTN. I took my ATI Hybrid off my display and I am using it on the frag tank now. The 6x24w sunpower w/ 2 All Blue Tech Reefbrites was sold off as I no longer needed them.
It's actually funny but I measured the PAR over the frag tank before and after the switch.
My Sunpower w/ reefbrites was 130-150 PAR at peak locations. (I could have increased the PAR but choose not to, the corals are happy at 130-150 PAR)
My ATI LED Hybrid has the same exact PAR with 2 less bulbs and the LEDs at a maximum of 35%.
You also need to know the fixtures were hung at the same height which is 14" above the water's surface.
Frag FTS
Reef Ready Grape Juice "In Frag Tank"
Another Shot of RR Grape Juice "In Frag Tank"
Pearly Cadaver "In Frag Tank"
Miyagi Tort "In Frag Tank"
Unknown Hairy Green SPS Mini Colony "In Frag Tank"
Sorry for the late reply. Here you go! If I could do it over again I would have ordered a little bit higher quality bolts and t-nuts. I ordered the economy ones and since the tank has been on the stand the support beams have dropped 1/16-3/16" on some sides. I believe it's due to the nature of the "economy" style t-nuts. They are smooth and the more expensive ones had ribs on them which, in theory, should help the t-nuts grip on the t-slot aluminum.
The new tank has been set up for nearly 3 weeks now and the Mitras have been installed for a little over a week. I've been running D2Mini's Light Profile and I put the Mitras in Acclimation mode to go from 50% to 100% over the course of 4 weeks.
Every coral in the tank, besides one, is recovering nicely and starting to color back up. The only coral in the tank I am having issues with is my Cali Tort which seems to keep on wanting to STN from the tips. A picture will be included below. I have checked parameters, and everything is spot on where I was before the switch aside from my ALK. My dKH went from 7.5 to 8.5 in a matter of days and hasn't dropped since the switch. I have stopped the AWC and slowed the rate coming out of the CaRX in hopes that the alk will drop and the coral will recover.
The strange thing is that no other coral in the tank shows signs of STN or RTN, the Cali Tort is the only coral showing signs of stress.
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