50g Cadlights Build Thread

[rtparty]

Guess it's time I start this thread. This build has been in the works for a little while and has finally progressed to a point where I can add some pictures and get things going.

Equipment List
Tank: 50g Cadlights Rimless
Sump: 17g Cadlights - modified
Custom built stand: 3/4" Birch plywood painted
Lighting: 24" Geisemann MH/T5 (Phoenix 14k, 2 ATI Blue Plus)
Skimmer: Cadlights PLS-100 (I think. Will be changed)
Return: Eheim Compact 3000+
Heater: Fluval E series (for now)
Controller: Apex Jr with temp probe
Powerheads: Tunze 6045x2, MP10QDx1

Misc.
Rock: Pukani, Fiji and Tonga Branch (all dry)
Sand: Don't know yet
Plumbing: Orange PVC from BRS, SCH80 fittings. 1" Herbie Drain, 1/2" emergency and 1/2" return (modified like crazy to fit standard PVC and not metric)
Salt: Fritz Pro

Most current pic:


More to follow...

 

[rtparty]

A little background first...

I've been in the hobby since early 2006. Couple breaks here and there with the most recent break being the longest (almost 3 years.)

In September of 2016 I decided it was time to look at a new tank and see what was out there. I had stayed pretty current on equipment and techniques and knew what I wanted in the space I had. I watched the local forum and local classifieds for a little bit when I came across this tank. It fit the area I had and now I had to convince the wife. (I should add I didn't need to really convince her. She is totally supportive of the hobby as long as home is taken care of first.)

So here is where we started after a few purchases:


Really wish I had earlier pictures. The sump looked 10 times worse than the tank. It was caked in algae and full of rock rubble. It took my wife and I about 2 hours of cleaning/scrubbing plus an overnight soak in vinegar to get it clean.

Next up is stand and plumbing...

 

[rrr757]

Looks nice. How did you modify it to fit standard pvc. So far leak testing and don't like the bulkheads for the drain. Did you still and extra emergency hole?

 

[rtparty]

Unfortunately, I don't have any pictires of the actual build. My father in law did most of it without me there. It is 3/4" birch plywood. Dadoed (is that a word?), glued and screwed together. He's much better than I at woodworking and I didn't want the 2*4 build. The inside already constricts me enough.

Stand:








Plumbing:





Sump:



Freshwater test:






Up next is RO fill and curing the rock!

 

[rtparty]

Looks nice. How did you modify it to fit standard pvc. So far leak testing and don't like the bulkheads for the drain. Did you still and extra emergency hole?

Thanks!

Bulk Reef Supply has metric to standard adapters. The drain is 40mm. The other 2 holes are 20mm pipe. I originally planned to use a standard bulkhead in the largest hole and bought all 1" plumbing for the drain. Sadly, it didn't fit and the 40mm converts to 1.25" so I had to get a 1.25" to 1" reducer.

This picture shows the standpipe I built for inside the overflow...



The adapter fit right in the bulkhead on both sides. Then just 2 reducers and that's part is ready for 1" pipe. You could always leave it 1.25" if you wanted and skip the reducers.

For the emergency and return it's way more expensive IME.

You need 2 of the 20mm to .5" adapters from BRS. You will also need 2 of the 20mm couplers that can be found at CoralVue. Be prepared for excessive shipping costs on your $1 parts. That should get you to standard size PVC.

 

[Ron Reefman]

Ryan, what a gorgeous clean looking stand! My congratulations to your father-in-law. My father-in-law was a grade A furniture maker as a hobby and I learned a lot from him. And with the CADlight rimless tank it sure looks modern. I love my 6 month old CADlight 125g system.

 

[rtparty]

Ryan, what a gorgeous clean looking stand! My congratulations to your father-in-law. My father-in-law was a grade A furniture maker as a hobby and I learned a lot from him. And with the CADlight rimless tank it sure looks modern. I love my 6 month old CADlight 125g system.

Thanks Ron! It came out just how I wanted and looks great.

 

[d0ughb0y]

how did you modify the sump?

I recently got a used cad lights 50 (old model with durso).

I don't really need the refugium area and don't need the divider between the drain and skimmer section. how hard is it to remove the glass divider/baffles? At a minimum I want to remove the drain/skimmer divider. I can probably use the refugium area for frags (put frag rack and a small led light there), but I can still do that with the baffles removed.

The one I got use 1/2" uPVC for return and 1" uPVC for drain. The union is not compatible with 1/2" sch 40 union, so if I want to replumb it, I have to replace from the bulk head, but not sure if the existing hole will work with standard size bulkhead. I do not know yet if the bulk head are standard size or not, but the pipe connections are definitely not metric and are 1" and 1/2".

 

[rtparty]

how did you modify the sump?

I recently got a used cad lights 50 (old model with durso).

I don't really need the refugium area and don't need the divider between the drain and skimmer section. how hard is it to remove the glass divider/baffles? At a minimum I want to remove the drain/skimmer divider. I can probably use the refugium area for frags (put frag rack and a small led light there), but I can still do that with the baffles removed.

The one I got use 1/2" uPVC for return and 1" uPVC for drain. The union is not compatible with 1/2" sch 40 union, so if I want to replumb it, I have to replace from the bulk head, but not sure if the existing hole will work with standard size bulkhead. I do not know yet if the bulk head are standard size or not, but the pipe connections are definitely not metric and are 1" and 1/2".

On the plumbing side of things, contact Cadlights and see which setup you have. They were semi-helpful in helping me out.

As for the sump, I removed 2 of the baffles and eliminated the "refugium" area. No way I'd ever run that area as a refugium. Too small to make any difference IMO. Now my drain/equipment section is about 10.5" by 15". It used to be 7" by 15". I can now get a skimmer that I actually like and want.

Removing the baffles was harder than I thought but I learned some valuable things. Score the silicone best you can with a razor blade and remove all excess silicone. Try not to scratch the glass. Then I used a razor blade that I could slide down between the baffle and sump wall. I'll try to grab some pictures for you. The razor blade had to be "flat" so it would fit. In all honesty, I'd try a guitar or piano string if you have one. Wrap it around some pencils and saw your way through the silicone. Make sense?

Once the baffles are removed, clean up with a razor and you're good to go. I hope that helps

 

[rtparty]

Looks like a new skimmer will go online next week. The Cadlights is a little too loud for where this tank is being setup long term. It's actually pulling a good amount of gunk already so I may keep it as a backup.

I went with the ReefDynamics INS80. The Sicce pump should be quiet and reliable and it is a proven choice. With the deals that can be had on them, it was a no brainer for me.

 

[moondoggy4]

Good choice on a the RD skimmer I had one on my 55 gallon tank and it was the best skimmer I ever owned,it pulled skimmate like chocolate syrup out of the tank.

 

[rtparty]

Good choice on a the RD skimmer I had one on my 55 gallon tank and it was the best skimmer I ever owned,it pulled skimmate like chocolate syrup out of the tank.

Thanks!

Credit goes to reeftivo. He has been awesome answering some questions. He has basically the same setup as mine and loved his RD skimmer

 

[LinkinReef]

Looking nice! I might try the colored plumbing as well on mine. That looks really cool!

 

[rtparty]

Looking nice! I might try the colored plumbing as well on mine. That looks really cool!

Bulk Reef Supply has all sorts of colors. I am happy how it all turned out. Just make sure to use clear PVC cement so you don't see any excess and ruin the look

 

[rtparty]

New skimmer is in and running! The skim is just from running it wide open overnight to break in. I need to build a stand and start fine tuning it today.

This is where we are currently at with curing the rock...

Just waiting on my MicroBacter7 shipment. Then I will add in Matrix to get it seeded as well.

 

[rtparty]

First round of MicroBacter7 has been added and I also threw in 1L of Matrix to get it seeded and going as well.

So far the skimmer has been tough to dial in but I know it's the inconsistency right now. It also spits out a ton of bubbles from the outlet. I might need to cut an inch or so off the skimmer stand.

 

[d0ughb0y]

Hi, just wondering if you know how the cadlights overflow box works.
on the newer model like yours with the trapezoid box, it also has the inner overflow box wall right? and the slits near the bottom on the outer wall?

on my older version tank with the square overflow box, I've been running it with freshwater with vinegar to clean and sterilize the tank, and noticed small particles get sucked in the bottom opening and on the lower slits of the outer overflow box as well. I think that is a neat design as the debris do not have to by chance get blown all the way to the top and go into the overflow from the top. I cannot figure out the principle on how it works.

now I'm thinking if I put sand, I need to leave the area right at the bottom of the outer box to be clear/bare. or at least leave the lower slits unobstructed,

on my current tank, it is just a plain box so I get a lot of crap accumulating on either side of the overflow box, which I think maybe will not happen with the overflow box setup of cadlight tank.

 

[rtparty]

Hi, just wondering if you know how the cadlights overflow box works.
on the newer model like yours with the trapezoid box, it also has the inner overflow box wall right? and the slits near the bottom on the outer wall?

It doesn't have an inner and outer wall. Just the trapezoid box. Under the teeth on the inside is a little lip. If I don't keep the water adjusted high enough in the box, the water spills over that lip and makes a splashing sound. Quite annoying when you want a silent tank. So I have had to adjust the water level accordingly.

 

[d0ughb0y]

are you using the 1" drain for herbie and 1/2" for emergency?

mine only has 2 holes, and when I tried using the 1/2" for main siphon drain, I was not getting enough flow. never thought of doing it the other way around.

 

[rtparty]

are you using the 1" drain for herbie and 1/2" for emergency?

mine only has 2 holes, and when I tried using the 1/2" for main siphon drain, I was not getting enough flow. never thought of doing it the other way around.

Yes. 1" drain, ½" emergency (this doesn't allow enough to be honest) and ½" return.

So when I tested a complete blockage of my main drain, the emergency couldn't handle the flow fast enough. I'm going to lower the emergency pipe which will give it a little more time to try and catch up. However, this won't solve the problem so I'm thinking of getting a sensor or valve of some kind that when water gets too high in the display, my apex will shut off the return pump.

I'm still messing around with ideas here