50g SPS build

cpllongjk

Active member
Background:
I have been reefing off and on since I was 14 years old, almost 16 years now. I dabbled in it when I was a teenager and had a 29 gallon tank. I quit for a while when I was in the Marines and picked it back up as soon as I got out and haven't put it down since.

I started doing all sps tank when I was in college about 7-8 years ago and fell in love with "nano" size tanks. I found that the larger I went the more time it took and the less excited I was about keeping a reef tank. Thus, the largest display I will probably keep is between 50-75 gallons. I feel a 36" x 24" x 18" is probably the largest I will go.

A little over a year ago my wife and I moved away from home when I took a job out of town and my tank went with me. When I left that job at the end of my contract I tore down my tank, which upset me a lot, and since then I haven't felt like I wanted to be a reefer anymore until a little over a month ago. I was talking it over with my wife and she said you have everything why don't you start your tank up again for our son, 1 year old now. I agreed and was happy to have her blessing.

Now that the story is out of the way, here comes the equipment and some pictures of the build. There will be more to follow in the coming weeks, I am trying to take things as slow as possible, I do not want to overlook anything.

Equipment:
Display Cadlights 50g (36x18x18) 3 sided starphire
Lights 2 AI SOL Blue controlled with Apex
Flow 2 Tunze 6055s (modded shrouds) controlled with Apex
Overflow/Return Herbie Method / Ehiem 1260
Stand / Floating Canopy Both Custom built by my father-in-law and I over a summer.
Filtration Zeovit (KZ 2.0L Zeovit Reactor)
Skimmer Vertex Omega 150 (not here yet)
Controller Apex
Sump 40g Breeder
Frag Tank 40g Breeder (will connect it later)
ATO Gravity fed from 10g tank
Salt Mixing 10g tank also gravity fed

Now pictures! If you have any suggestions let me know. I am only leak testing now, have not bought rock or sand yet, was going to wait a month and make sure everything is just right on my tank before I start it up for good.

Custom red oak stand built by my father-in-law and I.
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Pictures of the drywall I had to rip out due to black mold. The closet that I am installing the sump/frag tank had water damage a few years back. I also ran a dedicated 20amp circuit to my fish tank as well as cat5e ethernet to connect my Apex controller.
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A picture of how the sump/frag/salt mixing station stand looked in the middle of construction. The stand is roughly 37" x 26" x 80"tall when completed.
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A VERY VERY tight fit! 1" to spare total on the sides. 1/2" on each side lol! Good luck getting them out, I hope nothing cracks!
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I will post some more updated pictures in a few minutes, need to clean up the sump room and take some photos.
 
Some updated pictures of the sump/frag tank area. Before I run saltwater through the tank I will clean up the wires and pull everything nice, tight, and out of the way.
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One 10g tank is for top off, and the other is for salt water. I will use a 6025 to mix and both will be gravity fed. I drilled a float valve for each as well as a return valve in the bottom of the tank. I will also place a piece of acrylic in the bottom of each 10g tank at a slight angle so that the water will go downhill toward the bulkhead but not take up too much room in the reservoir.
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And finally a picture of the mini beast. Lets just hope my son, and daughter (coming soon), dont scratch the starphire with their toys... Believe me, I already am putting a lock on my man cave!
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So I have a few questions before I put sand, rock, and salt in the water...

1. I have a single ebo jager 200w heater. Do you think this one heater will be enough? I am effectively heating about 120 gallons when everything is up and running. But right now without the frag tank I only need to heat about 75-80 gallons. Any suggestions on heating?

2. How should I light my frag tank? Should I get a pair of used sol blues so both my main display and frag are running on the same type of light? Or should I use MH or go with T5?

3. I currently have about 100g of Reefcrystals salt mix left. In the past I have had mixed results with reefcrystals and zeovit. Should I switch salts when I run out or stick with reefcrystals? My main concerns with reefcrystals was incosistancy between batches and high alkalinity. I prefer alk in the 7-9 range.

4. How should I vent my closet (sump room)? I believe I did an excellent job insulating it but now need to come up with a venting idea to vent moisture and warm air. I figure no matter what kind of vent/fan I install I can get the Apex to make it come on at certain intervals during the day to keep it constantly vented.

Those are all the questions I have for now. I would like to get these issues resolved before I put any salt water in my tank. I appreciate any input you could give concerning anything, especially these 4 issues I am trying to address.
 
1 - 1 200w heater will be overwhelmed with 120g of water depending on the temp of your room. If its climate controlled you maybe okay but when a heater is overworked it tends to work all the time and then ware out and fail. I would have it on a controller like a RK or Apex' watching' it. Personally I would get a 350w titanium heater on a controller.

2 - I would use the same light for a frag tank so that you dont have issue with corals going from 1 light to another.

3- Personally I like tropic marin pro. They are consistently the same levels batch to batch. Never had an issue with consistency...Alk is low at about 6.5-7 dkh but I keep my alk at 7.5-8 DkH so I only buffer slightly during water changes.

4- a bathroom fan could work or just an exhaust fan cut in with duct vent to the outside...either could be on a humidity controller (or even a timer).
 
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4- they do make exhaust fans with humidity sensors built in however I like the control of a panel control...either way, there are options. None that easy since you prolly dont have a window in your closet.
 
4- they do make exhaust fans with humidity sensors built in however I like the control of a panel control...either way, there are options. None that easy since you prolly dont have a window in your closet.

Correct, I dont have a window in my closet but I do have 2 walls that are outside walls. I can easily put a window in. My thoughts on the vent were to add a bathroom fan like you mentioned but I do not want to drill a hole in the roof to accommodate the vent. I could possibly run the vent to my attic vent beneath the gutters of my house.

I believe you're right about the heater. Which model do you suggest? I have always run ebo jager heaters and never owned a titanium heater.
 
Looking good!
I would get 2 150W heaters and use the Apex controller to turn in on and off. Never trust the built-in controller on the heater itself.
I've been using IO for about two years after having issues with TMP. Alk on the IO is ~9dKH.
 
If you have outside walls then just vent out through the wall. you should be able to jump power for a small exhaust fan from a circuit in the room.
 
Thanks guys/gals. Yeah I think ill go with the 2 heaters. I found moisture and some rust in my old ebo jager heater and think that it's not safe to put it in the tank.

I have looked into a bathroom exhaust fan mounted on the wall, sort of like a dryer vent, and did some measuring. The problem was the fan's export would be going up or down, runs perpendicular to the surface of the wall and there isnt much space between the stucco and the drywall to connect the fan's exhaust to the exhaust port if you know what I mean. I also am worried about warm air coming into the room via the port during summer and warm air escaping during winter.

I think you're right about IO. I remember batches being more consistent in the past, more so than reefcrystals anyways. And a nice bonus, CHEAP! I plan on 10% WC every week so any brand shouldnt matter too much but the lower the alk the better IMO.
 
A picture of how I am setting up the gravity fed auto top off and salt mixing station. They are both just 10g tanks drilled with float valves and bulkheads for the water to run out the bottom, then fed to the tank. The fresh water top off going into the sump is regulated by a float valve as well.
Im a bit ****ed, one of the john guest valves I bought from HOME DEPOT is leaking. Take it back?

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Nice build thread. Subscribed. :)

Thanks, I talked it over with the wife last night and am 100% certain about dumping my AI SOL Blues in favor of older tech.

Ill be going with a single 250w radium or a 6-bulb 24" ati sunpower. This morning I did electricity cost vs bulb cost and believe it or not the single MH won. To replace my t5 bulbs every year twice a year it will cost 250 dollars where as a single mh will only cost 150.

Energy savings is about 100 watts per hour for 10-12 hours. 1 kilowatt costs about 13 cents so about 13 cents per day x 365 is about 47.50. About 50 dollars a year savings over the t5 fixture, not bad.

The key is to light my tank with only 1 250w bulb.
 
Its gonna be a while. Since tank isnt set up and there is absolutely no bioload. I should know more in 2-4 weeks from now. My rock, sand, zeobak, and zeostart3 will be here by Tuesday and I should be able to start the tank by next weekend.

I am going to spend quite a bit of time aquascaping to get just the right island look I want.

These are my ideas so far. The higher island will go up about 12-13" from the sand bed on the overflow(right) side of the tank. The lower island will be on the left side and will be about 4-6" off the sand bed. I would also like some type of branching effect coming off the higher island, almost like a finger reaching out that I can place corals on.

What do you all think.
 
venting

venting

Very nice progress so far. Why not just vent the closet back into the house? I live in NC and in the summer with the air on all the time a little extra Humidity is not noticed and in the winter when it gets real dry the extra humidity is nice.

With Going with the MH I don't think you will need that heater much. Maybe at night depending on what you keep your house at. My system is similar in size and lighting and I don't know if my heater has ever come on. 3 fans keep it right at 78 with my little ACjr. Looks good John
 
Ive thought about venting the sump/frag room back into the house but do not want too much moisture/humidity in my room. Where my display sits will be my man cave and while there are 2 doors, one to the front and one to the back of the house, I can already feel some humidity even in the winter with no heater attached yet. My tank is sitting at a solid 70 degrees which is awesome since I keep my house set to 68-71 during the winter.

If I vent the room it must be up through the attic or through the wall, the easiest would be through the attic since power is already there.
 
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