57.2 gal cube build

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8540364#post8540364 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nurjrk
Ha Ha, Good pickup, I wish that's what it was. Actually it's olive oil. We tried that first as a lubricant for drilling the holes. While it smelled good when heated, it proved to be too messy and not any better a lubricant than good ol water. The remaining holes were drilled using water....Beers were consumed after the use of all tools :D

Jeff
Was thinking midori...guess not ;)
 
haha, that's too funny. . . it's o n l y olive oil.

Hmm, seeing all the photos gets me even more excited to throw some water in there.

Wait until you guys see how we do the OverFlow grid and cover the back wall with black foam to hide the plumbing.

I better call Kris to get the acrylic piece.
Cheers
 
The bulkhead picture....

First...what is connected to the bulkhead? Kind of looks like a 90 elbow but it's not?

Second...does it screw onto the bulkhead?

Third...where can i buy it?

thanks
 
You may want to lower your durso a bit to be below the level of your overflow. If not, that's where your water level will be at. If that's what you want, go for it, if you want the water level to drop down over your weir, than you need to cut that durso a few inches for it to be below the weir. Just my $.02
 
Hey 30mini, It does look that way doesn't it. We are actually waiting for a acrylic piece to glue on top of the overflow wall that will have the actual overflow teeth in it. Should be about 2". Hopefully we'll get that installed this week sometime. The actual durso is glued into the bottom bulkhead, but the rest is just fitted together, no glue, so if we need to raise or lower it a bit, it shouldn't be any problem.
Thanks,
Jeff
 
Jeff, I think Ktreegs is talking about the low profile 90 degree elbow.

Yeah, these things are cool. We thought the Overflow section would be smaller and wanted to keep bulkheads low profile. The nice thing is that it screws onto the outside threads of a 1" bulkhead. However, the internal section is also very small as per the design. So, I do not think it has any flow throughput advantages over a standard threaded elbow, which I hoped for.

You can buy them here for $3each:

http://www.customaquatic.com/customaquatic/searchhomekeyresult5.asp

Too bad they only have the 1" size. It woudl be nice to find these for 1 1/2" and 3/4" fittings.
 
Slick! I like the way the plumbing bulkheads through the bottom panel.
I was thrown off by the initial drawing but it actually looks good!
 
thanks for the link... cerreta

I have a standard 1 inch bulkhead. I wanted to find a 90 elbow to screw on the outside of the tank, couldn't find any at lowes. So I wanted to find out what you were using.

Thanks for the help.
 
looks great, interesting design.

? Anyway you can dump that check valve? IMO those things are trouble.

Are diamond luminarc reflectors available for DE bulbs? I thought they were only made for DE lamps?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8553308#post8553308 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jimmyj7090
Are diamond luminarc reflectors available for DE bulbs? I thought they were only made for DE lamps?

Huh ?
 
We went with the check valve so we didn't have to run the plumbing up to the level of the water then back down to the bulkhead. If I have any problem with it, I can change it. As for the light, not sure what you're asking. I've been looking at a couple different lights. I'll be going with a 250w DE MH, hopefully with a 14K Phoenix bulb, nothing is set in stone yet though.
Jeff
 
"I thought they were only made for DE lamps?"

I meant to say SE lamps? Didn't think luminarc reflectors were made for DE lamps????

Have they come out with a DE reflector?
 
This may be a silly question, but how did you square up your cube while constructing? I suppose one might use a square and just hold until dry, or try some type of bracing. I'm planning on building a cube myself (much smaller), and I considered building a wooden box "mold" to help with squaring. Any suggestions???

By the way - I think this will look great when you are done!

Matt
 
Matt, none of that is necessary. If the glass is cut true, then that acts as your square.

The first two panels are the most difficult to put up. Once up, the rest goes smoothly. Duct tape is used to hold teh pieces together. When the panels are in place just use you fingers to feel the bottom plate and align the sides with that. Don't use to much force when putting on the other side panels or you will just squeeze the silicone out of the joints.

This is the guide we used to assemble this tank.
http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/aquariumdiy/a/aa120897diyaq.htm
 
Hey all, the backordered 3/4" bulkheads came in are now in place.

DSCN2301.jpg


Well the tank is basically done, except for making the overflow teeth and adding the black foam to the overflow wall. So, lets add some WATER!! The CL strainer was removed and replaced with a piece of PVC so all the water wouldn't run out.

DSCN2304.jpg


Front view:

DSCN2325.jpg


Top view, notice the 4 bulkheads (2 in overflow wall and 2 in euro brace) for the CL return from the OM Super Squirt Compact.

DSCN2331.jpg


We made a jig so we could cut the teeth in the acrylic for the overflow. It worked pretty well, except the teeth got a little crooked as we went along, won't be noticeable unless you look directly at it and know what you are looking for.

DSCN2322.jpg


Next on our list is to finish the overflow and add the foam to the overflow wall and add the molding to the bottom of the tank. Hopefully we'll get some more done on Friday.

Thanks for looking,
Jeff
 
Back
Top