600 Gallon Upgrade Build

Update and Your Perspective

Update and Your Perspective

After about a week of thinking and talking to an adviser, I have stopped the buffing on the tank. I recently found out that the tank is aver 8 years old and there are internal surface cracks from the tank bowing from being filled and drained with water numerous occasions. So I talked to a builder and I am having the tank built. I was going to be a 360 viewing but that may change due to the fact the external protein skimmer will be in the middle back of the tank.

But I would like everyone's perspective and opinion. When I switch over from my 225 gallon setup, should I setup the new tank first and let it run for 3 months before transfer, or should I take water and fish and put it in the new tank and then fill the rest with new water of the same SG and temperature and bacteria?

Thank you everyone and hope to hear from you at your earliest convenience.
 
Going About Things the Wrong Way

Going About Things the Wrong Way

The last week I've been on this site and a couple other competitors site comparing my build to other build similar to larger. After some quick and long observation I just sat back and said to myself, "I am doing this all backwards." I have been building the tank around the room instead of building the room around the tank.

The room which the tank is going in isn't close to being ready. I have to do the floor, baseboards, crown molding, run the four 20 amp dedicated circuits, and possibly do a new ceiling fan (which I might just totally remove and place with an AC unit) and thats the short list.

So like the big boys I am bringing in an adviser to guide me along. We have been reefing buddies for a couple years and she has a good eye and a great DIYer.

So the build will continue but in a whole different direction. Pic will also follow along with the updates.

Thank you everyone for your patience and of course your knowledge has been a great blessing and help along the way.
 
There is rarely any harm in taking longer to plan and design, versus rushing that process. Getting advice from several trusted sources is also a good thing. Don't hesitate to challenge your advisors to defend their ideas, and get second opinions on all big decisions. Looks like you are already doing that so good for you! In terms of filling your new tank - If you have the luxury, I would recommend using as much water, live rock, sand, etc., from your existing setup as you can. It will help reduce some of the complications of "new tank syndrome"...
 
Just read your post and wow sounds like a nice setup. I myself have been working on my Large reef(Nick Name the swimming pool) setup for over a year. When I first started I figured I could have it up and running in 3 months. I was led to believe from others it will be done real fast and only takes 30 days to cycle a tank. This was all bad information. My only advice is to sit back and really think what the end result you want and plan plan and plan. Sounds like you are doing that now. In Alaska I do not have more than two friends that have reef tanks and they have small tanks. So I have pretty much been on my own figuring it all out. Any help you can get or second set of eyes will help out for sure. I can give you detailed info on the many changes I have done and reason I have done them. If I planned a little more and got my list of items I am using before the building phase I would have had an easier time.

The other thing after moving a 55 gallon tank to my house and using that as a test tank, fish and coral grower is i will build my new tank and set it up. Let that tank cycle and put some Chromis to live in there. Once I know for sure everything is stable move my live stock over and sell the complete 55 to anyone that wants it. I would hate to move everything over and have the tank cycle and kill my live stock. My 55 went through 4 more cycles killing fish after we thought it was done cycling it. This tank was mature and stable to previous location.

Sorry for long post that is my 2 cents for what its worth. Good luck and can't wait to see what you come up with.
 
There is rarely any harm in taking longer to plan and design, versus rushing that process. Getting advice from several trusted sources is also a good thing. Don't hesitate to challenge your advisors to defend their ideas, and get second opinions on all big decisions. Looks like you are already doing that so good for you! In terms of filling your new tank - If you have the luxury, I would recommend using as much water, live rock, sand, etc., from your existing setup as you can. It will help reduce some of the complications of "new tank syndrome"...

Thanks. You are one of those trusted sources.

Yes my skim does stink, really.
 
Just read your post and wow sounds like a nice setup. I myself have been working on my Large reef(Nick Name the swimming pool) setup for over a year. When I first started I figured I could have it up and running in 3 months. I was led to believe from others it will be done real fast and only takes 30 days to cycle a tank. This was all bad information. My only advice is to sit back and really think what the end result you want and plan plan and plan. Sounds like you are doing that now. In Alaska I do not have more than two friends that have reef tanks and they have small tanks. So I have pretty much been on my own figuring it all out. Any help you can get or second set of eyes will help out for sure. I can give you detailed info on the many changes I have done and reason I have done them. If I planned a little more and got my list of items I am using before the building phase I would have had an easier time.

The other thing after moving a 55 gallon tank to my house and using that as a test tank, fish and coral grower is i will build my new tank and set it up. Let that tank cycle and put some Chromis to live in there. Once I know for sure everything is stable move my live stock over and sell the complete 55 to anyone that wants it. I would hate to move everything over and have the tank cycle and kill my live stock. My 55 went through 4 more cycles killing fish after we thought it was done cycling it. This tank was mature and stable to previous location.

Sorry for long post that is my 2 cents for what its worth. Good luck and can't wait to see what you come up with.

Thanks. I will take that advice especially when I have very sensitive fish to keep in mind.

Yes my skim does stink, really.
 
But I would like everyone's perspective and opinion. When I switch over from my 225 gallon setup, should I setup the new tank first and let it run for 3 months before transfer, or should I take water and fish and put it in the new tank and then fill the rest with new water of the same SG and temperature and bacteria?
how far from new tank, is old tank and sump?...
can new tank/sump be temporarily connected to old sump?
 
I'm following along. I don't know what happened but thought I was previously subscribed. Keep up the work and planning, tanks of these size don't just build themselves! I've been going steady on my build for 5 months and feel like I've not accomplished as much as I've set out to! Your previous DT (96X48X24) was nearly the same as mine (96X48X30), are you planning on going with those dimensions again?
 
how far from new tank, is old tank and sump?...
can new tank/sump be temporarily connected to old sump?

I am looking at July, maybe August at the latest for the new tank. My woman and I really want to have the room reasonably complete (flooring, baseboards, crown molding) before the stand and tank is in its final resting place. My old sump is only 48X18X18. Unless I place the current pump that's running my 225 then it wont.

I'm following along. I don't know what happened but thought I was previously subscribed. Keep up the work and planning, tanks of these size don't just build themselves! I've been going steady on my build for 5 months and feel like I've not accomplished as much as I've set out to! Your previous DT (96X48X24) was nearly the same as mine (96X48X30), are you planning on going with those dimensions again?

The tank I was having buffed out is older than I had expected and I can get a new tank built for a few more hundred dollars more. The only delay is I have a daughter whose birthday and graduating :celeb3::celeb3::celeb3: in May and lives in Georgia so my funds are all allocated towards those two major events for me.

I do plan on going with those same dimensions. I wanted to go 27"H but I will stick with the 24"H. But I am admiring your patience as it has grounded me and guided me as well.
 
The tank I was having buffed out is older than I had expected and I can get a new tank built for a few more hundred dollars more. The only delay is I have a daughter whose birthday and graduating :celeb3::celeb3::celeb3: in May and lives in Georgia so my funds are all allocated towards those two major events for me.

I do plan on going with those same dimensions. I wanted to go 27"H but I will stick with the 24"H. But I am admiring your patience as it has grounded me and guided me as well.

Understood. It will come and as a wise man once said, "It its what it is and how it should be.". ;)

I'd rather have to wait rather than rush something and be very frustrated later. I'll be picking up fish today and starting to stock frags 4/28 so those can feed my addiction!
 
I got some things for the build. Will use them on my present tank for testing purposes.

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Update!

Update!

I know what most of my fellow reefers are thinking, "Has he made his mind up?" And the answer is yes. After adding up the cost of my investment in my tank, I have finally decided to have the man finish the tank. The highlight of this is he went to a local tank manufacturer and found out how much he can build that same tank for and the guy even gave me a bigger discount. So the next question is how do I find a solution to the problem especially when it comes to the seams and bracing? When meeting with all the parties involved, for a small price I can have the seams reinforced internally and on the tall corners and around the top euro bracing externally. The seams are in excellent shape but for the age of the tank the reinforcing will make it last longer. Well half the tank is done. Here is an updated pic. One 4ft and the adjoining 8ft side is complete.

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Which would be better, changing 5-10 gallons a day or 10% weekly water changes?

I'm more of a fan of daily water changes. Randy Holmes Farley often says this in any of his threads and if he says it's best for water changes then I can't disagree with him on water chemistry. If daily water changes means you'll miss it often, then weekly might be better if that's what it takes to get it done.

Just to share, if you've not already seen it...I earlier stated this on another thread:

I use LiterMeter base module w/ pump attached, remote pump, and water exchange module.
- Base pump used for top off (1 week of dialing in evaporation rate and you don't have to worry about this anymore)
- Remote Pump used for drain to house drain.
- Water exchange module is used for new saltwater and water exchange module will kick it off if it goes above a certain level in sump.

As an additional safe measure my float switches are just a failover and not really used for top off but rather a second preventative measure. Low water alarm will actually kick off return pump and outlet to LiterMeter III and e-mails me so I can access the situation. High water alarm will kick off LiterMeter III outlet and I have a bulkhead installed at top of sump should both of the above failsafes fail which drains to house.

The LiterMeter III pumps have amazing delivery/draw heights so that is not of concern. Each pump can do a total of 99 liters (26) gallons/day so in Steve's 400 gallon system you could do up to 45% water changes in a week (With my 1000 gallon system it will meet the needs too and is still able to do 18% water changes a week which I doubt will ever be that high) The pumps also take this set amount you want to change water and divides it over 150 times a day so when you talk about stability, this is one of the best things you can do to a system IMO to stabalize parameters. (Ask yourself if doing a 15-25% water change does not change water chemistry outside of the measurable tests we perform?)

That being said, this is just my opinion but at retail price of $683 for all three pumps and main module, 5 year warranty, they are the best upgrade I've ever made to my system. I recently rebuilt the pumps with new tubing before putting them back to work but this was just proactive maintenance and I was not having any issues with the pumps. Randy Holmes Farley also does a similar method and recommends this 'continuous water change' method over anything in our reefs.

My 'drain' water from the main system actually goes straight to my Frag Quarantine tank, then the overflow on the Frag QT goes straight to house drain. This ensures my Frag QT has stable params and needs very little testing/monitoring since it's getting large changes from the DT 'waste water'. Hope that helps:spin3:
 
I'm more of a fan of daily water changes. Randy Holmes Farley often says this in any of his threads and if he says it's best for water changes then I can't disagree with him on water chemistry. If daily water changes means you'll miss it often, then weekly might be better if that's what it takes to get it done.

Just to share, if you've not already seen it...I earlier stated this on another thread:



My 'drain' water from the main system actually goes straight to my Frag Quarantine tank, then the overflow on the Frag QT goes straight to house drain. This ensures my Frag QT has stable params and needs very little testing/monitoring since it's getting large changes from the DT 'waste water'. Hope that helps:spin3:


Thanks for the quick response and the info. Taking into the fact that the tank is going to be centered in the room, I will be doing the water changes manually. So basically it's to keep parameters stable.
 
Short answer to your original question is that smaller water changes are more effective and stable than large weekly water changes.

Not sure on the specifics of where the tank will be but the LMIII could still easily be implemented coming from the floor. It's a peristilic pump so you just need to run cheap 1/4" refrigerator line for drain/refill/ato. You would not have to worry about freezing lines like I would either:D

You'll figure out something that will make it easier in another way if the above is not possible. I know I can't wait until I can order some large vertical tanks and build out a water change station so I have lots of water on reserve.
 
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