6060 impeller broken

[newreefer03]

Roger,
My Tunze Stream 6060 is not functioning properly. Water seems to be coming out the inlet slats. I can see the prop spinning, though I don't think it is spinning as fast as usual. I took the pump apart and noticed that the inside end of the drive shaft of the impellar was very loose and came off easily. I did not see any broken pieces though. As I recall from the previous times I cleaned the pump, I don't think that deep ring piece of the drive shaft impeller is supposed to be loose. I'm figuring I need a need drive shaft/impeller. Do you agree?
Also looking on the Tunze website, it looks like I need 4 parts to replace the impeller--the prop, the drive piece, the plastic shaft, and a screw. Is that correct? I just want to confirm before I order $50 in parts. Thanks.

 

[newreefer03]

I'm also considering just scrapping the 6060 and going for a new nanostream 6025 but it seems the flow from the 6060 is more. Am I correct? Do you think it is worth it to spend $50 for a new impellar for a 4 yr old Tunze 6060? Thanks.

 

[rvitko]

The 6060 pumps about 2.25* more than a 6025. You should be able to save the prop blades, just unscrew them. You should only need part 6080.60 and that is about $30. I think it is worth it. I suspect either a brake shoe is broken or missing or the magnet cogs that engage the brakes are rubbed down/broken. This would cause the slipping and backwards rotation. If you can narrow it down you may be able to fix it for even less but $30 in 4 years sounds like a not bad deal.

 

[newreefer03]

Thanks Roger. I'll put the order in today.

 

[newreefer03]

Roger, I just put in the new impeller this evening but the pump still seems to be running backwards. Any ideas? Also, I noticed that I now there is a hole in the housing of the motor part of the 6060 where one of the plastic clips holding the strainer used to be. It must have broken off one of the times I took off the strainer. Could this affect the pump and is this a electrical hazard? I did notice that there are 2 small holes in the back of the motor housing. Thanks Roger.

 

[newreefer03]

The innermost piece of the impeller, the circular piece with the rubber washer does seem to come apart from the rest of the impeller. Is it supposed to be loose? Also the big O ring fitting around the strainer seems to be deformed and loose on the circular part of the motor housing, does that make a difference?

 

[rvitko]

Regarding the bottom most piece, slowly pry it off the magnet with a screwdriver. Work your way around it, prying it off gently so it isn't damaged. The magnet is cemented to it with calcium build up. Once it is free soak it in vinegar and get it cleaned up. Also soak the magnet and be sure the hole in the center of the magnet is clean. Water pumps through this hole and lubricates the plate and the magnet spins on it. The Oring is not terribly important, it does help dampen vibration.

 

[newreefer03]

Roger, there isn't any calcium buildup as I am using the new impeller ane there doesn't appear to be any buildup inside the hole of the motor housing. Thanks.

 

[rvitko]

There has to be some build up as the bottom most piece should not be stuck to the magnet. The magnet should freely spin on that piece. Perhaps some sand has jammed them together?

That hole is supposed to be there, by the way.

When you installed the new drive unit did you change all parts, including the upper bearing and bush bearing?

 

[newreefer03]

I reexamined the hole in the motor housing and found what I thought was white backing was the old small rubber o ring that was caked in calcium. I soaked it in vinegar and cleaned it up. The impeller now fits snug and seems to work correctly. Thanks again Roger.

 

[rvitko]

Thanks! I am glad it worked out.