60G Cube Build
- Thread starter Greybeard
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Greybeard
New member
Look at the fang toothed blennys as well, they're active, curious, hearty fish with a ton of personality. My smith's blenny, though a little plain looking, is a real character. There are several in this family that would be good additions.
Oh, yes, they are called fang toothed for a reason, and they're poisonous. I'ts purely defensive... don't let it worry you, but I'd now want to try and grab one with my hand!
Oh, yes, they are called fang toothed for a reason, and they're poisonous. I'ts purely defensive... don't let it worry you, but I'd now want to try and grab one with my hand!
Greybeard
New member
So, some time has passed... wanted to pick this back up.
Over the last year and change, I've struggled with water quality, especially pH, bounces in this tank. Smaller tank, OK, I'm a firm believer in larger tanks being more stable, but I've had 29g tanks that were more stable than this one has been. pH tended low, leading me to keep doing things to raise it, probably worsening the instability. Calc/Alk bounced all over the place. Growth rates of SPS corals was poor, though colors have remained strong.
A month ago, I made some changes. First, I changed out my Eshopps R100 sump/refugeum for an Eshopps RS100 sump. Lost the refugeum, along with several impossible to reach (or clean) areas in the system. Those water channels look great, until they're full of crud, and you can't get to them. Add in a small, center-rear return pump compartment, it was just not an ideal design for my purposes.
2nd, I went from a submersible Ehiem pump to a similar flow rate Iwaki external pump. Mounted where I can get at it, with union ball valves on both sides... easy to service, quiet, and doesn't add heat to the tank.
3rd, I removed a cheap dosing pump, gravity fed ATO, and BRS 2part and went to a Tunze ATO with an inline Kalk reactor. A month later, I'm tracking a very steady pH of 8.3, and rock solid calcium and alkalinity readings.
I'm hoping more stable water conditions will lead to better growth rates. I'm really hoping that my slow growth rates are related to bouncing water quality, rather than lighting. I'll give it a few months, and see. If this doesn't do it, I'm going to switch out my Halo for a different light. Not sure which one yet... and I hate to do it at all. I love the look and form factor of the Halo. Still, if it's not doing the job, I'll change. I may hang a 250w DE halide pendant and be done with it. I _know_ growth will be good under halides, but I'll have to start dealing with heat problems that I've been trying to avoid. I don't want a canopy, so honestly, T5 is not going to work for me... I could go with another LED... the Hydra 26HD seems likely, but I'm not certain it would solve my problem... if, in fact, the problem is lighting, which I'm unconvinced of... yet.
Pics
Over the last year and change, I've struggled with water quality, especially pH, bounces in this tank. Smaller tank, OK, I'm a firm believer in larger tanks being more stable, but I've had 29g tanks that were more stable than this one has been. pH tended low, leading me to keep doing things to raise it, probably worsening the instability. Calc/Alk bounced all over the place. Growth rates of SPS corals was poor, though colors have remained strong.
A month ago, I made some changes. First, I changed out my Eshopps R100 sump/refugeum for an Eshopps RS100 sump. Lost the refugeum, along with several impossible to reach (or clean) areas in the system. Those water channels look great, until they're full of crud, and you can't get to them. Add in a small, center-rear return pump compartment, it was just not an ideal design for my purposes.
2nd, I went from a submersible Ehiem pump to a similar flow rate Iwaki external pump. Mounted where I can get at it, with union ball valves on both sides... easy to service, quiet, and doesn't add heat to the tank.
3rd, I removed a cheap dosing pump, gravity fed ATO, and BRS 2part and went to a Tunze ATO with an inline Kalk reactor. A month later, I'm tracking a very steady pH of 8.3, and rock solid calcium and alkalinity readings.
I'm hoping more stable water conditions will lead to better growth rates. I'm really hoping that my slow growth rates are related to bouncing water quality, rather than lighting. I'll give it a few months, and see. If this doesn't do it, I'm going to switch out my Halo for a different light. Not sure which one yet... and I hate to do it at all. I love the look and form factor of the Halo. Still, if it's not doing the job, I'll change. I may hang a 250w DE halide pendant and be done with it. I _know_ growth will be good under halides, but I'll have to start dealing with heat problems that I've been trying to avoid. I don't want a canopy, so honestly, T5 is not going to work for me... I could go with another LED... the Hydra 26HD seems likely, but I'm not certain it would solve my problem... if, in fact, the problem is lighting, which I'm unconvinced of... yet.
Pics
Greybeard
New member
Thanks My idea, but I have to credit my daughter Kaitlyn with the tilework... She's mostly doing murals now, but honestly, she can do just about anything artistic. I can't draw a straight line with a ruler.
https://www.facebook.com/BigPictureMurals/
My idea, but I have to credit my daughter Kaitlyn with the tilework... She's mostly doing murals now, but honestly, she can do just about anything artistic. I can't draw a straight line with a ruler.https://www.facebook.com/BigPictureMurals/
lewisrhoades
Member
I finally pulled the trigger on an AI Hydra 26HD on my 60g cube after I finished moving. So far it is phenomenal on my tank, but man it feeds the algae. I'm still trying to find the right settings for it. How are you liking that Gyre? I'm having water flow problems in my tank and am debating getting one to see if it can remedy my problems.
Greybeard
New member
The Gyre is awesome... but does have some drawbacks.
I'm running the 130, at about 60% max power. Any more than that, and I've got a sand storm. My corals, BTA, and Gorgonians absolutely love the flow.
The problem with the Gyre design is that they're a pain to disassemble and clean. Not that I do that often... I've got mine mounted at the top, where my Halo doesn't really hit it, so algae growth on it is minimal. Still, I like to keep things clean, and it's a pain. Worth it, IMHO, but yeah. They've got a new generation out now, better controller options, that sort of thing, but I don't know if they've addressed the difficult disassembly or not.
Honestly, i've compared and contrasted my Halo with the Kessel 360, I think the Halo comes out on top. The Hydra 26HD is a 2 puck design. The one complaint I have, aside from slow SPS growth rates, is the high shadowing effect of the single point light source the Halo provides. If I change, it'll be to a 2 puck LED, like the Hydra 26HD, or to something with less of a single point source. A 250w halide in a good reflector, or even an ATI 6x24" T5 system. Problem with that is going to be mounting it. This is in a room with a cathedral ceiling. I'd need to spend a good deal of time and effort, as well as hiring a monkey that can climb up there, to mount a hanging light source. I've considered having some 3/4" steel pipe welded up to run over the center of the tank, but honestly, I'd like to avoid that. With a rimless tank, anything heavier than my Halo is going to require some additional mounting structure.
A 360 degree viewable, walk around system, in a small cube size, has led me to a good many challenges. I think it was worth it, but we'll see how it works out in the long term.
Thanks
I'm running the 130, at about 60% max power. Any more than that, and I've got a sand storm. My corals, BTA, and Gorgonians absolutely love the flow.
The problem with the Gyre design is that they're a pain to disassemble and clean. Not that I do that often... I've got mine mounted at the top, where my Halo doesn't really hit it, so algae growth on it is minimal. Still, I like to keep things clean, and it's a pain. Worth it, IMHO, but yeah. They've got a new generation out now, better controller options, that sort of thing, but I don't know if they've addressed the difficult disassembly or not.
Honestly, i've compared and contrasted my Halo with the Kessel 360, I think the Halo comes out on top. The Hydra 26HD is a 2 puck design. The one complaint I have, aside from slow SPS growth rates, is the high shadowing effect of the single point light source the Halo provides. If I change, it'll be to a 2 puck LED, like the Hydra 26HD, or to something with less of a single point source. A 250w halide in a good reflector, or even an ATI 6x24" T5 system. Problem with that is going to be mounting it. This is in a room with a cathedral ceiling. I'd need to spend a good deal of time and effort, as well as hiring a monkey that can climb up there, to mount a hanging light source. I've considered having some 3/4" steel pipe welded up to run over the center of the tank, but honestly, I'd like to avoid that. With a rimless tank, anything heavier than my Halo is going to require some additional mounting structure.
A 360 degree viewable, walk around system, in a small cube size, has led me to a good many challenges. I think it was worth it, but we'll see how it works out in the long term.
Thanks
lewisrhoades
Member
I know AI is coming out with a tank mount for the Hydras that is similar to the Prime one so that could be an option. I'm using an RW-4 and a Hydor 425 in my cube and my flow is too much in certain spots and non existent in others. I know the RW-4 was cheap, but I am disappointed with it anyways. These cubes are a pain to get good flow in if you have any kind of large rock work.
Greybeard
New member
10" over the water.
whiteshark
Active member
You could do a floating canopy. All the look of a rimless tank and all the lighting benefits of a canopy. I ran that on my last tank, a 24 x 24 x 12 rimless, with a 250W 10000K XM SE MH and 4 ATi T5s. SPS growth really took off after I switched from an AI Vega with the 4 T5s.
Greybeard
New member
Trying to suspend a floating canopy over this tank would be a challenge. I'm pretty well stuck with tank mount.
I'm thinking a 250w 12K DE HQI in a Bimini sun reflector, hanging from a tank mount about 12" over the water, should be sufficient without supplemental actinics. I may try and use the HALO mount, if the Bimini reflector isn't too heavy. If it is, I will probably bend a bit of 1" conduit and mount it directly to the stand.
IF... growth rates don't spike in the next few months, since I've settled my water stability issues.
whiteshark
Active member
I suspended my floating canopy from conduit attached to the stand. I sprayed the conduit with a hammered metal spray paint, used a couple J hooks and lamp chain and had a height adjustable floating canopy. Something to think about.
It does look like suspending it from the ceiling is a bit impractical, and it's probably pretty unlikely that there are studs in the wall right where you would need them to wall mount it.
I'd personally switch over to the MH if possible. It will make an enormous difference as far as shadowing goes if nothing else, but you should see a difference in growth as well. It also shouldn't hurt too much in the way of heat if it's open above the tank and you have central air.
It does look like suspending it from the ceiling is a bit impractical, and it's probably pretty unlikely that there are studs in the wall right where you would need them to wall mount it.
I'd personally switch over to the MH if possible. It will make an enormous difference as far as shadowing goes if nothing else, but you should see a difference in growth as well. It also shouldn't hurt too much in the way of heat if it's open above the tank and you have central air.
Greybeard
New member
I'm thinking about something similar. Have to see what I end up with, but yeah, that's the most likely solution for mounting.
I'd have to hire a monkey... I'm an old fatman who likes to keep his feet planted firmly on the ground. Ladders and I just don't get along. A ceiling mount just isn't happening.
Shadowing is already an issue, and I expect it to get much worse over time. As for heat, there is no fan in my cabinet now, adding one would be trivial, and would likely help a bunch. I expect to do at least that. If I need one, a fan at the water surface as well, but I doubt I'll need it.
I think I've about talked myself into this. Thanks
I'd sure like to hear from someone with a Bimini sun reflector before ordering one, though...
