75 gallon reef build

[Waddleboy]

What's y'alls opinion on these LPS corals (in terms of hardiness, feeding, necessary lighting, and general care)

http://www.liveaquaria.com/diversden/ItemDisplay.cfm?c=2733+8&ddid=143033

http://www.liveaquaria.com/diversden/ItemDisplay.cfm?c=2733+8&ddid=142287

http://www.liveaquaria.com/diversden/ItemDisplay.cfm?c=2733+8&ddid=140406

I believe they are all photosynthetic which makes your life easier. The acans and the brain and relatively simple. They need a decent amount of flow and decent lighting which with your lighting system you should have. The Goniopora is harder to take care of and needs stronger lighting better flow. They also need really stable water conditions. They can be fed i believe and its beneficial to them. I am still new at this but i hope thats a start.
On a side note i hope your not planning on getting these and throwing them in right away cause without cycling your tank you will have dead corals.

 

[Nonameben]

I believe they are all photosynthetic which makes your life easier. The acans and the brain and relatively simple. They need a decent amount of flow and decent lighting which with your lighting system you should have. The Goniopora is harder to take care of and needs stronger lighting better flow. They also need really stable water conditions. They can be fed i believe and its beneficial to them. I am still new at this but i hope thats a start.
On a side note i hope your not planning on getting these and throwing them in right away cause without cycling your tank you will have dead corals.

Thanks for the input. Oh no, I won't be adding corals or fish until my tank has established itself. I just like to check out different corals, learn some info about them before I end up buying. I really like the acans, especially when they are splitting into another coral.

 

[Nonameben]

Got the stand today!

Also picked up two powerheads. Decided to go with these instead of the sicce.

With the stand, it's not open at the top so I'll have to do some DIY and drill some holes for my overflow and sump.

Any thoughts about the best way to do this?

 

[Waddleboy]

Last time I did it was i measured from the bottom of the tank how far the holes were from the edge. Then took a piece a paper traced the holes, checked it with the original measurement, Then traced those holes onto a piece of cardboard and that became my template. I also drilled the holes a tiny bit bigger because it made it easier to plumb. hope it helps and good luck

 

[Nonameben]

Thats what I was thinking. I might just drill a square the size of the whole overflow, because it won't matter either way. I'll be working on that either tomorrow or next weekend. I still have to get my return pump, which I'm also not sure how to connect it so it actually returns my water. Any suggestions?

 

[Waddleboy]

Thats what I was thinking. I might just drill a square the size of the whole overflow, because it won't matter either way. I'll be working on that either tomorrow or next weekend. I still have to get my return pump, which I'm also not sure how to connect it so it actually returns my water. Any suggestions?

I thought you were using the sicce? I have never used but it looks like a barbed end that is threaded into the pump. You have three options that i can think of quickly. 1) use the barbed end connect a flex tubing the overflow return hole and connect it the bulkhead and that is done. 2) use a short tubing and connect to another barbed end that can be connected to pvc and run pvc to the bulkhead. 3) dont know if you can do this but remove the barb, thread in a male adapter for pvc into the threads and run pvc. A little flexibility on your options

 

[Nonameben]

I'm using the sicce return pump, but the two marinelands I got are my powerheads. The way they are setup, you can use one as a direct nzzle power head (160gph), a circulation pump (basically a saltwater powerhead) which is 750gph, and then they can also convert to a return pump. It came with parts to turn into either 3, but I'm using them as the circulation pump for maximum gph. The sicce return pump i'll be getting next week (gotta wait on a paycheck)

 

[Nonameben]

I've been on reef cleaners.org and checked out their CUC for a 70g, but I've heard that you should order half of what their packages contain. Anybody agree with or disagree with that?

 

[james30ct]

I agree if you dont have enough algae most will die. I have a 72 gallon and I only have like 15 snails/crabs total.

 

[ReefCowboy]

Good Job!
Looking forward to updates!:beer:

 

[Nonameben]

I agree if you dont have enough algae most will die. I have a 72 gallon and I only have like 15 snails/crabs total.

Thanks, that's what I've been told. I'll keep the CUC around that number.

 

[Nonameben]

Good Job!
Looking forward to updates!:beer:

Thanks! This upcoming weekend of the 27th there will be lots of DIY. Inside my stand I need to put a wooden bottom, need to drill holes for the drain/return, need to do the plumbing, and will set up an area for a refugium. Also will be doing a leak test!

 

[Nonameben]

And it begins!

Also got my sicce return pump! Now that the equipment is done being bought (for the time being) I can start saving for dryrock! Few questions about the plumbing

Should I glue my pvc pieces together? I feel like I should with the amount of water going through there, over time it will cause a leak is my thinking. If so, what sort of glue should I use?

 

[Waddleboy]

Yes glue your PVC together otherwise you will have a leak. Regular PVC glue and primer works? I'm jealous your onto plumbing. I'm stuck till my acrylic comes in so I can make my sump for exact plumbing measurements

 

[Nonameben]

Any specific brand? Haha, I've been waiting for this day. Had to go out and buy a new drill though. Will finish plumbing and do a leak test this weekend, unless the superbowl gets in the way!

 

[Waddleboy]

nopers. just go to the hardware store. solvent cement and primer. schedule 40 is your piping so pick up something for that

 

[iwishtofish]

Don't rely on dry-fitted pvc to base measurements and fit - when you prime and glue it, it will press all the way into the fittings/couplings until it bottoms out. It typically will not when dry-fitted. I had to redo my plumbing because of this. I discovered the best way to measure pvc fittings is to do internal measurements to the lip where the pipe has to stop.

I can also recommend cutting the pipe extremely square with a miter saw (or box), gluing outside with mild temperatures, and not waiting for the primer to dry before applying glue. They make a clear primer that looks better. Apparently the colored stuff is only pigmented so plumbing inspectors can verify primer was used. Unions are a great idea, anywhere you think you'd have a future need to remove a pipe for maintenance purposes.

If you already knew this, or know a better way, please ignore!

 

[bellis31]

Don't rely on dry-fitted pvc to base measurements and fit - when you prime and glue it, it will press all the way into the fittings/couplings until it bottoms out. It typically will not when dry-fitted. I had to redo my plumbing because of this. I discovered the best way to measure pvc fittings is to do internal measurements to the lip where the pipe has to stop.

I can also recommend cutting the pipe extremely square with a miter saw (or box), gluing outside with mild temperatures, and not waiting for the primer to dry before applying glue. They make a clear primer that looks better. Apparently the colored stuff is only pigmented so plumbing inspectors can verify primer was used. Unions are a great idea, anywhere you think you'd have a future need to remove a pipe for maintenance purposes.

If you already knew this, or know a better way, please ignore!

+1 all good advice here... The clear primer is way cleaner than that purple stuff...

 

[iMob]

nice!!!!!!

 

[Nonameben]

Don't rely on dry-fitted pvc to base measurements and fit - when you prime and glue it, it will press all the way into the fittings/couplings until it bottoms out. It typically will not when dry-fitted. I had to redo my plumbing because of this. I discovered the best way to measure pvc fittings is to do internal measurements to the lip where the pipe has to stop.

I can also recommend cutting the pipe extremely square with a miter saw (or box), gluing outside with mild temperatures, and not waiting for the primer to dry before applying glue. They make a clear primer that looks better. Apparently the colored stuff is only pigmented so plumbing inspectors can verify primer was used. Unions are a great idea, anywhere you think you'd have a future need to remove a pipe for maintenance purposes.

If you already knew this, or know a better way, please ignore!

I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to this stuff, I have just started my saltwater tank and am new to everything. Basically what you're saying is to have my pvc parts with a little room in between so the glue will dry, and if they fit snug in there the glue will just squeeze out and not dry at all? Sorry, plumbing aquariums is very new to me and I'm still learning. I appreciate the advice though and will be working on the plumbing this weekend!