75 Gallon SPS Dominate tank.

Salifert or DnD. For phos the Hanna photo checker is only $49.99 and is the best thing going right now. IF you get it buy xtra reagent as they only give you 4 tests.
 
Ok so now thats taken care of. Since my tank has already been running for about a year i wont have to cycle it, but would it be a good idea to run the lights and have every thing all situated in there for about a month? Just thinking because i dont want to stalk it and have a huge algae breakout because i just upgraded my lights. Also do i need to wait for my dead rock to start becoming LR before i stalk or can i just start stalking right away?
 
You will likely have an algea bloom when you turn the lights on any way it just depends on how high you nutrient load is. If the rock has been in running system that has never seen copper treatment then it is already live rock if it is dry rock or uncured live rock you will see a full cycle.
Start running the light NEW BULBS connot be stressed enough and when you see some green algea beef up your clean up crew keep testing your water and when your #'s look good start stocking the least aggressive fish first slowly. no more than two fish a month.
 
Ok so i dont have any rock in there right now. Its just sand. It was an temperate water for a cephalopod. I got rid of all the rock in there so it is cycled and just needs some dead rock the display tank. Also if it is already cycled can i just add all the fish i have in my 40 all together at the same time?
 
It will still cycle when you add the rock. There's an unimaginable ammount of decaying organic matter deep in any dry rock that when added will quickly overwhelm the bacteria in your tank. But on the whole that will ensure that you have a strong bacterial population.
 
Your photoperiod will be based on what your corals tell you they need. Start with 6-8hrs a day. I found that the Sunlight Supply Reefoptix 1 fit under a hood great and added the lens to keep the salt off the reflectors.

It was far enough from the brace, it didn't get too hot and some of my best colors seemed be be in that middle area.

When it comes to flow opinions vary, but somewhere in the 40X range is a good place to start and you can always add more later.

Alk and P04 are probably the two tests you will use the most, Ca, Mg, NO3 are a slight second to those if we are "ranking". A refractometer if your don't already.

Other things to consider: temperature control and supplementation scheme.
 
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So still wondering if there are any good or bad reviews about the auto top off?

Also i have been hearing that people dip there coral. Why do they do that and what do they dip them in and should i get some and dip my corals when i get them?
 
that ATO is good but if your on a budjet then you may want to check out autotopoff.com they have a good unit and is about half the price.

as for dipping, I use revive. ppl dip their corals so they don't get any pests in the main tank. also you will prob. wat to QT them for a few weeks to double check for pests.
 
Ok so the autotopoff.com was a great find i am going to get on of those. Is there any thing else i am missing? I am about to make a big order so if there is anything please let me know.
 
Make sure you get on that quick. Its a must. It WILL make the differance between succeding or giving up. If you cycle that rock in the display be prepared for it to be pretty smelly. Some other things to think about in the near future are, 1 or 2 media reactors for phosphate removal media and or carbon, an accurate temp controller to control a heater and fans. What kind of filtration are you using are you running a sump.
 
For filtration i am going to put about 40-60 pounds of LR in the sump and i have a protein skimmer. I have a phohphate removal reactor and i have a bag or carbon. I also have a a chiller hooked up because SPS=sustainability promotes success. I am ordered one of these http://www.marinedepot.com/ViaAqua_...aters-ViaAqua-VA1155-FIHTTH-VA1161-vi.htmlfor heating and i have another one if i need more i have just a lower wattage on that one. Also why will the rock be smelly when i cycle it?
 
Went through your thread. I am no expert and have had my own issues as I am new to the sps thing as well sounds you have good lighting for what you wanna do Check, internal flow is a must with the sps, Example I run a 4ft tank internal flow total about 5500gph coming from 5 locations not each, total all together. Is it too much flow dont think so I have 2 mini dead spots area of 8x8 in each side corners. any who didnt see if you have a controller to shut things off in emergency situations like a heater gone crazay which they do, or a chiller that turns on when its not suppose to...happens read a few threads of people trying to hold the tears, and all could have been avoided with a simple controller I'm sure you know they go anywhere from a benji to 5 benjimans so like in your case you have a cal reactor which I am impressed as I myself am not ready for one, but since you have one your controller could shut it off if the ph gets to like 7.5 or something like that. Sorry ranting, good luck, I wish I had just ponied up the extra grand and bought the leds I liked and not worried about chillers and fans etc... such a waste of electricity and multiple machines to keep metal halides
 
I think you might of mis read that i have a cal reactor. I dont have one yet i and i am with you i dont think i am ready either. Also what do you guys think about my flow is it too little or good?
 
A pair of those maxi jet mods will be plenty for now. you can always add more later.
There will be alot of ammonia comming out of those rocks since they are not in a running system, all the original microbial life that was IN those rocks has to decompose.
 
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