90 Gallon Build

Trollicus

New member
I've had reef tanks for just about 8 years, but would still consider myself new to the hobby as my last tank was torn down and sold around 4.5 years ago and I've moved across the country a couple times for work. That being said, I'm starting a 90 gallon up and taking it VERY slow. Any advice or thoughts along the way would be greatly appreciated.

Here is the equipment I just picked up:
90 Gallon Reef Ready Tank and Stand
20 Gallon Long Sump
Vertex IN100 Skimmer w/ Stock Pump
Mag 5 Return Pump
Jebao WP-40 w/ Controller

Additionally, I picked up a larger sump as the 20 gallon has no baffles or anything else except for a return bulkhead.
MRC 36" Reef Sump

There are a couple differences between my old tank and this one. First, my old tank was a 72 gallon bowfront that was not drilled. This tank has an overflow with two holes at 1" and 3/4" in size. Second, the new tank will be going in my office, rather than at my house. I've always wanted to have an office with a tank, and once I got the green light to do so I started looking. This offers some benefits and challenges. I spend most of the day at work, except weekends, so I should be able to enjoy the tank more than if it was in my house. Additionally, being in my office gives me more incentive to make sure the tank, once setup, is in show condition and there aren't cords or pipes all over the place, along with it being relatively quiet. Unfortunately, there are hassles with maintenance from having a tank in my office. It isn't really feasible to have an RO unit hooked up there, so I'll have to transport water. I suppose if there is an emergency on the weekend or when I'm on vacation it could cause some interesting problems as well, but it wouldn't be much different if something happened with a tank at home while I was at work either. I will be looking at how to get a monitoring system hooked up to send me email notifications, with the biggest hurdles being cost and access to my company's LAN (Ideally, a solution where the monitor could hook up to my office PC and have the PC send out a notification would solve that particular issue.)

Tank setup - still empty as I plan this out
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Current Plumbing - I plan on changing this to a herbie overflow or some modification thereof.
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From this rear view you can see the simple durso style standpipe. In this setup, I am somewhat nervous because the overflow has two holes and one isn't even being used. There is a ball valve underneath going to nothing. Next, you'll see the 20L tank used as a sump. I have the new MRC 36" reef sump.
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Finally, here is my hand sketched version of my vision for the tank in terms of plumbing and what needs to be done. I'm sure some things are incorrect or have been overlooked.
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The questions I am asking myself (and anyone here) are as follows -

Is a 1" PVC return line enough? The overflows are 1" and 3/4", respectively and I probably don't want to change those.

The current setup has dual returns split off with a tee. I have read that a single return is sufficient and better suited unless the tank is very large. Should I redo the returns so only one return is used, or leave it as is?

The return pump that came with the system is a Mag 5, rated for 500gph. Is that too low of flow? I thought the rule of thumb was 10x the system. With a theoretical max of 90gal for the display and 55gal for the sump, lets say I have around 110gal of water after the tank is stocked. I would have thought the pump should have double the output after any head loss.

Similarly, the system came with a Vertex IN-100 skimmer. Rated for 100 gallons, it is probably a little undersized. I suppose I can try running it for a bit to see how it works, but I think this will be on my list to upgrade soon.

Check valves seem to get a bad rap here due to their propensity for failure, but having one on the return line shouldn't hurt any, should it? I'm not worried about a power failure with the system as I have a very high end UPS system that should be able to power it for hours (if not days.)

With the way the sump is configured, there is a 1/2" bulkhead separating the main water area from the refugium area. Others with this sump have commented on getting a small maxi-jet or equivalent pump to push water through, but my thought would be to tee off the return line and let a small amount of water go in the refugium that way. If I'm understanding correctly this would give the fuge a VERY slow flow.

On that same note for the tee for the fuge, I've thought to add an inline UV sterilizer in the future to the overflow. My logic behind this was that it would catch water BEFORE it goes into the fuge so if there was any detriment to the copepods, it would minimize this. However, as I think more, I'm concerned that with a gravity overflow the water flow would not be able to sufficiently hit a tee off and could cause the bulb to burn up due to lack of water. Perhaps a full siphon in the overflow would prevent this, but I'm not sure. If that is the case, hooking up the UV outside of the system plumbing may be the best solution so I can easily maintain it.

With the large size of the MRC sump (36L x 18D x 18H) it may not fit in the stand. The tank is 48W x 18D x 24H, so I presume there is a tiny bit of space lost for the stand. I just picked up the sump yesterday and will find out tomorrow. If this is the case, I will temporarily remove the back center wood brace and lower frame to move it out slightly. I'm not concerned with the stand's integrity as any modifications will only make it more secure.

I'm taking my time with everything and not in a rush to get fish in there at this point. Once the plumbing is completed, I will fill it with RO water. I am looking to purchase a nice RO/DI unit, along with some old food grade water barrels. Mostly likely I'll make a stand for the barrels, then raise them off the ground, allowing one barrel for RO water, one for mixed salt, and possibly a third for wastewater.

After the tank is filled and there are no leaks or noise issues, I will get my sand and live rock in the system and start the slow cycle process.

Still to do:
Finish plumbing
Acquire RO/DI unit and water holding tanks
Fill with water
Acquire Live Rock/Sand for cycling system
Acquire Glass cover and/or oak hood stained to match cabinet
Acquire LED lights
Acquire Fish and maybe some soft corals down the road once system is stable


Any and all comments or suggestions are welcome. Thanks for looking, Anthony.
 
And as I suspected, the sump is approx 1" too deep. I'll remove the middle and lower back bracing and then reframe it once the sump is in there properly.
 
Sump is in but a very tight fit. Working on some plumbing and testing for any water leaks now. Pics to follow.

RO/DI unit is hooked up. Next to my office where the tank is set up is an abandoned custodial closet so I've taken it over for water production and any other storage I need to keep clutter down in my office once the tank is up. The bracket was a piece of steel we had with holes the perfect size of the ro line to keep them in place for the drain. This picture was taken during the initial 2 gallon flush as recommended by Spectrapure.


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I've also taken one of my totes and put it on wheels for quick water storage to wheel in and out of my office (approx 20-30 feet away)

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Looks like my pictures had broken links, so here they are again.

Empty Tank, in my office
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Rear of tank, with current plumbing as purchased. Note that 20G sump has been replaced
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Plumbing/Tank sketch plan page 1
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Plumbing/Tank sketch plan page 2
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New sump is installed but VERY tight. Having removed the back brace and floor cross member (not a load bearing support) I beefed up the tank a bit. We had some extra 4x4 pieces of oak used to make pallets that I put in each corner. The stand can now carry a semi if needed.



Next up, I put some water in the overflow and noticed a small leak from the main return bulkhead. A replacement has been ordered from Savko and should hopefully arrive tomorrow. If it does, I will test the overflow again, then fill up the tank and see how it does over the weekend.
 

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Welcome back to reefing! I am also starting a new tank, upgrading from a 65g red sea max 250 so following yours for ideas. I have 2 bulkheads in my overflow box as well and was considering doing the herbie method too due to the complaints i read about the durso method. One is 1.5 and the other is .75. I think having the second as an emergency gives me some peace of mind but don't know if a .75 drain is sufficient for a 1.5 main.
 
Welcome back to reefing! I am also starting a new tank, upgrading from a 65g red sea max 250 so following yours for ideas. I have 2 bulkheads in my overflow box as well and was considering doing the herbie method too due to the complaints i read about the durso method. One is 1.5 and the other is .75. I think having the second as an emergency gives me some peace of mind but don't know if a .75 drain is sufficient for a 1.5 main.

I'm in the same boat as you, except my two drains are 1" and 0.75". I'll most likely leave them be instead of redrilling them since the tank was drilled when I purchased it. Were I to start from scratch, I'd get a 3 hole overflow system to plumb the Bean Animal version. I'd also have holes drilled in the back for the return instead of having PVC go over the top.

I did just place an order for around 80 lbs of pukani rock off BRS within the last hour or so. I was monitoring the site for the pukani come back in stock for the large 20"+ pieces, so once I saw it I jumped. I've heard the pukani is very porous and is not as dense as other rocks, so less is required for the tank than with say, Fiji or Tonga rock.
 
Yea i just finally learned about the bean animal method too. I wont be able to drill any holes into my tank since it was bought used and had predrilled holes and am unsure the maker of the tank. The person who original sold it said it was possibly leemar.

Nice! im guess its live rock? I have a mixture of live rocks i bought in the past for $5.99 a pound. Expensive hobby. But since i had issues with mantis shrimps and unwanted hitchhikers in the past, im using all dried out rocks from my cousins tank he broke down a couple of months ago. Starting from scratch is gonna suck but this time i can make sure i take the steps needed to keep my tank as pest free as possible.
 
Nevermind take that back, just checked brs they dont sell live rock.

I'll probably pick up some LR locally to seed the tank. But for all intents and purposes got the base rock due to price and also to do a slow cycle. At best I'll put an additive in like ammonia to help it along. But no tank lights for now.
 
Plumbing is done (dry fit) and I've got most of the tank filled with water. Letting it sit overnight for a leak check and then adding the remaining water to test my return pump. Still not sure the mag5 is enough, but we'll see.
 

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I've also picked up an led light fixture. The Jebao wp-40 I got with the tank wasn't working, but it turns out it was just the power cord and now it works fine. The other powerheads are there to mix up water and some salt I just dumped into the tank. A quick check after 5 min or so had it at 1.15sg so I'll see how much it rises, of at all.



My dry rock from BRS arrives tomorrow and ill start the cooking process in my Rubbermaid brute. I've got about 110lbs of live sand so I'm unsure if I should wait until the rock is done, or let that go in the tank while the rock cycles in the brute.
 
A few more pictures as it progresses.

1 - The tank, cloudy from adding live sand and rock a couple days ago. I rinsed it out pretty good but it still kicked up a good storm.

2 - A sample of the Pukani dry rock that I got from BRS. These were the smaller pieces.

3 - The tank, this morning, with most of the cloudiness gone. Not fully aquascaped yet and the sand needs to be evened out.
 

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The tank is slowly going through the cycle. I put some raw food in to decompose and have ghost fed a couple times. It has been approximately two weeks since I started up the tank.

Parameters appear to be looking good, but honestly I'm not sure the tank has really started the cycle since I used dry Rock. FWIW, I did use live sand. 80lbs of the live sand and 30 lbs of regular aragonite. When I first started I only had VERY expired test strips instead of even a basic test kit. I've since acquired both the API Saltwater and Reef Master test kit.

Updated picture of the tank is attached to look at the aquascaping. I'm still changing things around slowly - especially with the powerheads to limit sand blowing.

Parameters are as follows today:

Temp - 79.7F
Salinity - 1.023
pH - 8.0
Alk - 9.0
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 20
Phosphate - 0.25
Calcium - 440
Magnesium - 1100

Any thoughts or comments are appreciated. Thanks for looking!
 

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Yeah, I totally underestimated the size when ordering. Long term goal is to make them look somewhat natural and seamless together once any natural algae growth occurs as well as adding corals.
 
I am starting to get some brown algae which I think is a good sign for the cycle process moving along as intended. The question I have is if I should do a water change yet, or wait for the full cycle to complete. I've been topping off with RO/DI as needed. Up and running for about 3 weeks now.

Parameters are as follows -

Temp - 80.0F
Salinity - 1.024
pH - 8.2
Alk - 12
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 10
Phosphate - 0.25
Calcium - 440
 

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After ghost feeding and checking levels I took the plunge and got some fish to start my stock.

(4) Blue Green Chromis

After proper acclimation and adding them to the tank yesterday they were naturally still a bit stressed. This morning, however, all were swimming around happily and eating food. The LFS only uses flake, but they didn't seem to mind if I fed them flake or pellet. They also are swimming as a group, which was my intent, and since I bought smaller ones, my hope is that they do not turn on each other as is the case frequently.

I've also purchased some chaeto to add to my fuge, along with a small CUC, and some tisbe copepods. I haven't seen anywhere that the Chromis will eat the copepods, so the goal is to kick start the population for a future Mandarin months down the road.

Additionally, with the tank being in my office and the holidays coming up, I've made plans for both an ATO and an automatic feeder. The standard Eheim "feed air" and AquaSmart "Smart ATO" were my choices and should arrive later this week.

Next, because old habits never seem to go away, I looked for the food I preferred for my last tank a few years back (and hope the formula or quality hasn't changed,) picking up OCN Formula 1 small pellets, OCN Formula 2 small pellets, OCN Prime Reef Flakes, and OCN Brine Shrimp Plus. This should give the Chromis a good variety (I believe they are omnivores) as well as give base foods for any future purchases. I will soak the foods as needed in Selcon and/or Garlic Guard (again, old habits.)

With all of this planning, my next steps in stocking the tank will be slow or fast depending on your views. This assumes all (or most) of my Chromis survive and the water parameters stay consistent.

Approx 4 weeks or so
Add a pair of Clowns

Approx 8 weeks or so
Add a Midas Blenny

Approx 12 weeks or so
Add a Foxface

Approx 16 weeks or so
Add a Mandarin (I'm thinking a tank set up for 5 months at this point with my volume and LR should be able to support one at this stage)

Approx 20 weeks or so
Add a Kole Tang

Of course, my 4 week spacing between a new fish is just a guess and would be extended depending on the health of the current inhabitants. Any thoughts on the order of the fish would be appreciated. I may pepper in a cleaner shrimp and some inverts, but don't really consider those as much when looking at the bio load.
 
You're plan sounds great! It's kinda hard for me to wait that long in between fish but this time around i think ill be taking it nice and slowly as well. i also purchased the Smart ATO and am please with it right now. The only thing that would be helpful would be some instructions. I bought it used from someone on this forum that said he just opened it and it didnt work with his setup because his sump or tank was not clear. Its pretty simple to setup though.
 
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