95 Gallon Build Thread
- Thread starter vader88
- Start date
Aquarist007
New member
vader--now that your worried---grab some in your hand and have someone take a close up of the sand---then we can see for sure:smokin:
or do what Tswifty did:
nice closeup
vader88
Dolphin Finatic
well, I don't have someone to take the picture around ( bachelor ), but I can tell by his pic, my bottom sand is definitely more course.
Is it a guarantee that I will have problems with it, or just a good assumption that I will.
on a side note, I picked up another Tunze 6055 ... prices is just too good at the LFS ( 175 ) and the JBJ top off controller from Ebay.
picked up a lil pump from the LFS to work with the ATO
Is it a guarantee that I will have problems with it, or just a good assumption that I will.
on a side note, I picked up another Tunze 6055 ... prices is just too good at the LFS ( 175 ) and the JBJ top off controller from Ebay.
picked up a lil pump from the LFS to work with the ATO
Aquarist007
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12555227#post12555227 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by vader88
here's the pic which I suspect will bring bad news.
also, when can I add chaeto
you can add cheato anytime
I would change out that substrate--just my opinion---I'll see what T.J says.
Tswifty
New member
I agree with changing it out... It looks like you have 2 evils lurking there.
Extremely fine sand, and crushed coral. I also think the fine sand is too thin of a layer to provide any benefits other than hide the look of the crushed coral.
Here's an excerpt from one of Ron Shimek's Sand Bed Articles:
Coarser sediments such as gravel or crushed coral are simply too big. Additionally, they have the drawback of being sharp edges that are abrasive to many of the small crustaceans and worms that must crawl through the sediments. Finer sediments can pack so tightly together that they are impervious to most animal movement, creating a layer that restricts animal and water flow shutting down the biological filter.
Having to assess sands for particle sizes would be a daunting task for any hobbyist. Fortunately, however, several vendors sell bulk sands in the appropriate size ranges, often marketed as "sugar fine" or oolitic sands. A few larger particles in the sediment mix is okay, but larger sediments should not constitute more than about 15 percent of the total. Under NO circumstances should you use crushed coral or coral gravel. These substrates are too coarse and often too abrasive for many of the smaller organisms to survive in.
The organisms do not care about the sediment mineral composition, only the particle sizes and shapes. Most aquarists use the commonly available aragonitic sands to "provide a calcium reservoir." Additionally their bright white color is often aesthetically pleasing. However, if the system's pH and calcium concentrations get low enough to dissolve significant amounts of the sediment there are some very severe problems and all the sand in the world won't help. Very successful tanks may be set up utilizing black lava sand, or fine siliceous sand, as long as the grains are of the appropriate size. There is some concern that siliceous sand will fuel diatom blooms, but such blooms may be controlled by the appropriate grazers. There is absolutely no need for any subsurface sand structure such as a "plenum" or shelf. In fact such structures will reduce the sediment volume that is available for the bacteria.
To put a sand bed in an established tank, remove any gravel or crushed oral, and then add the new sand, about an inch at a time. Don't worry overly much about the cloudiness in the water, reef animals are adapted to this and will be able to tolerate it easily. In a new tank, simply put all of the sand you need on the tank's bottom, add water and place your live rock in or on the sand. There is no need for any sort of platform to support the rock. I embed the live rock a bit into the sediment to give it stability.
Here's the rest of the article if you would like to browse it:
http://ronshimek.com/Deep Sand Beds.htm
Extremely fine sand, and crushed coral. I also think the fine sand is too thin of a layer to provide any benefits other than hide the look of the crushed coral.
Here's an excerpt from one of Ron Shimek's Sand Bed Articles:
Coarser sediments such as gravel or crushed coral are simply too big. Additionally, they have the drawback of being sharp edges that are abrasive to many of the small crustaceans and worms that must crawl through the sediments. Finer sediments can pack so tightly together that they are impervious to most animal movement, creating a layer that restricts animal and water flow shutting down the biological filter.
Having to assess sands for particle sizes would be a daunting task for any hobbyist. Fortunately, however, several vendors sell bulk sands in the appropriate size ranges, often marketed as "sugar fine" or oolitic sands. A few larger particles in the sediment mix is okay, but larger sediments should not constitute more than about 15 percent of the total. Under NO circumstances should you use crushed coral or coral gravel. These substrates are too coarse and often too abrasive for many of the smaller organisms to survive in.
The organisms do not care about the sediment mineral composition, only the particle sizes and shapes. Most aquarists use the commonly available aragonitic sands to "provide a calcium reservoir." Additionally their bright white color is often aesthetically pleasing. However, if the system's pH and calcium concentrations get low enough to dissolve significant amounts of the sediment there are some very severe problems and all the sand in the world won't help. Very successful tanks may be set up utilizing black lava sand, or fine siliceous sand, as long as the grains are of the appropriate size. There is some concern that siliceous sand will fuel diatom blooms, but such blooms may be controlled by the appropriate grazers. There is absolutely no need for any subsurface sand structure such as a "plenum" or shelf. In fact such structures will reduce the sediment volume that is available for the bacteria.
To put a sand bed in an established tank, remove any gravel or crushed oral, and then add the new sand, about an inch at a time. Don't worry overly much about the cloudiness in the water, reef animals are adapted to this and will be able to tolerate it easily. In a new tank, simply put all of the sand you need on the tank's bottom, add water and place your live rock in or on the sand. There is no need for any sort of platform to support the rock. I embed the live rock a bit into the sediment to give it stability.
Here's the rest of the article if you would like to browse it:
http://ronshimek.com/Deep Sand Beds.htm
Aquarist007
New member
:lol: but were all quilty of that at some point
JHAI3
New member
Vader, I would switch out the substrate, and hold back on impulse buys for at least a month. let the tank mature and develop and watch your water parameters closely particularly nitrates, nitrites, ammonia and phosphates as these are the evils. You want to maintain the CA, Alk, and Mag and get familiar with what your tank requires and then start to add additional animals thereafter. This is a hobby of patients and can easily dig holes in your pocket by rushing..... Hope this helps some.
vader88
Dolphin Finatic
Thanks for the advice guys, I already went through my cycle. I monitor the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate every day for any signs of problems.
I've also transferred the majority of my rock from the other tank which has been running for over a year.
and Chago, at least skim through a thread before you make your remarks. I successfully set up a nanocube which did quite well, even though my 800 mile move.
I even inquired here about why my cycle had went so quick, within 7 days I had no ammonia, .25 nitrites, 20 nitrates. 2 days later, everything at 0.
I'm dosing with B-ionic so my calcium and ALK are in check. I don't remember the number of the phosphates, but they were
in check also.
I thank the people trying to steer me in the right direction and
so far the only mistake I think I have made is using the wrong
substrate. I'm trying to figure out a way to remove that now.
I haven't bought any LS, those are from my existing tank.
I've also transferred the majority of my rock from the other tank which has been running for over a year.
and Chago, at least skim through a thread before you make your remarks. I successfully set up a nanocube which did quite well, even though my 800 mile move.
I even inquired here about why my cycle had went so quick, within 7 days I had no ammonia, .25 nitrites, 20 nitrates. 2 days later, everything at 0.
I'm dosing with B-ionic so my calcium and ALK are in check. I don't remember the number of the phosphates, but they were
in check also.
I thank the people trying to steer me in the right direction and
so far the only mistake I think I have made is using the wrong
substrate. I'm trying to figure out a way to remove that now.
I haven't bought any LS, those are from my existing tank.
Aquarist007
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12592751#post12592751 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tswifty8
here I'll use the pic for you that I just used on my thread for a very similiar situation:
:lol:
I thought you were alot older than that--and drinking draft at your age:eek2:
alright well now I read your entire thread and no where did you say anything about your cycle so I don't know why everyone has the smart *** comments?????
So you think your cycle took only two days because your levels came to zero?? your tank has nowhere near reached its equilibrium. You added rock from a nano to a 95 gallon??? and your tank cycled in two days??? wow is this rock $100lb because where I live I need to buy over 1lb per gallon and wait 6 weeks.
Sorry man but add some fish to your tank and start feeding and then watch problems begin. I am a nooby myself but I know a lot of pros say in this hobby nothing comes fast. And yes your other tank is still set up so are you saying that if ammonia begins to kill the animals then you will move them to that tank??? that makes sense. If my dog starts to get hip issues then I'll stop beating him :smokin:
Current USA Out Orbit issues...
Current USA Out Orbit issues...
I bought these fixtures for my Wave Tank and my 180G - both of them had broken bulbs upon receipt. I hate the cheezy way they ship the systems with the bulbs in the fixtures...otherwise, a good product.
LL
Current USA Out Orbit issues...
I bought these fixtures for my Wave Tank and my 180G - both of them had broken bulbs upon receipt. I hate the cheezy way they ship the systems with the bulbs in the fixtures...otherwise, a good product.
LL
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A good deal...
A good deal...
By the way, you got a heck of a deal on that tank - trust me; we bought ours new...
I hope you don't have a crash because of a "false cycle" in your tank... You're smart to get rid of that crushed coral...
My Wave tank is now a seahorse community - picture below. Those fake plants are hitching posts for the horses. There are about 30 real coral in there, mostly zoas, paly, blastos, sun coral, etc. Doesn't look like it, but that's 120 pounds of live rock.
We're using the exact same light system...really do like the Outer Orbit, except for that shipping issue. You're lucky you bought from DFS - I saved a few bucks by purchasing from Seacorals.com, and I have yet to receive the time of day for any of the broken bulbs. They suck.
Good luck and enjoy!
LL
A good deal...
By the way, you got a heck of a deal on that tank - trust me; we bought ours new...
I hope you don't have a crash because of a "false cycle" in your tank... You're smart to get rid of that crushed coral...
My Wave tank is now a seahorse community - picture below. Those fake plants are hitching posts for the horses. There are about 30 real coral in there, mostly zoas, paly, blastos, sun coral, etc. Doesn't look like it, but that's 120 pounds of live rock.
We're using the exact same light system...really do like the Outer Orbit, except for that shipping issue. You're lucky you bought from DFS - I saved a few bucks by purchasing from Seacorals.com, and I have yet to receive the time of day for any of the broken bulbs. They suck.
Good luck and enjoy!
LL
