I'm trying to find caulerpa but can't seem to get enough amounts for it to flourish in the tank. The hair algae takes over in the fuge.
A tank full of caulerpa will do wonders. You can grow it fast and harvest it for human consumption, fertilizer, or fish food. Make sure it is local caulerpa or it may/will infest the neighbouring sea. They have that problem at the Monaco Aquarium.
http://bonniewmon.tripod.com/killeralgae.html
I am still looking for a proper shading material that is easily available but still haven't found any.
The shipping may be high, but you will save resources in the long run. Chlorinet blue.
http://www.signaturesupplyonline.com/
Interesting, I'll look into this. If I'm not mistaken, the marine center I frequently will be able to jump start the process.
You can buy dry starter cultures and have them shipped to you.
http://www.reedmariculture.com/product_instant_zooplankton.html
http://www.brineshrimpdirect.com/c193/Rotifer-Cysts-Saltwater-or-Freshwater-c194.html
If you had the choice of going with either a UV, ozone, or sand filter, which will you choose and why?
I only get one? If the problem is phytoplankton blooms, then I would go with UV. If the problem is bacteria, viruses, organic waste, and free-floating algae entering your tank form the sea, then I would go with ozone. If the problem is detritus and clarity, then I would go with a sand filter.
I think phytoplankton blooms are going to be a fact of life with the direct sun, high organics, heat waves and semi-closed system, so UV would be my main weapon of choice. I would buy a metal halide UV unit from Aqua UV in the Viper series...
http://www.championlighting.com/home.php?cat=1383
Sand filters only work if you frequently backwash them. You could incorporate an automated backwash every few hours with replacement water coming from the sea. Your Profilux controller can switch an actuator valve to do this easily.
The Delzone T3 ozonizer is 230v ready and very efficient. They cost under $100 and provide about 300mg/l/hr. I would use 5 units and run them on a power bar connected to the profilux ORP control (plumbed into your skimmer air intake). If you do the actual math, you require 8500 mg/l/hr, but that's getting into a big noisy industrial unit. Five units 1500 mg/l/hr will work with your skimmer size and will probably run 24/7. Since it is outside, residual ozone gas isn't a problem. Ozone leaves bromide ions behind so running the ozone in your skimmer and then post carbon filter would be a good idea. Norit ROX .08 carbon is the best and probably available locally.
http://www.norit.com/
Bread, squid (especially the fish farm) and shrimp (sometimes).
While bred probably isn't going to cause water quality issues, it isn't the most nutritious diet for the fish. Most of your fish are omnivores, eating meat & algae. Try to find a good local source of dried or fresh seaweed that they like. A cost effective seafood mix can be made in a bender. Use whatever is seasonal and local. Don't worry, I'm not talking about using your fish farm stock
There are algicides like symazine that work, but I would keep away from dangerous (carcinogenic) chemicals. If you use a water clarifier (coagulant) like Kent Marine Pro-Clear, do so rarely and keep in mind it lower the dissolved oxygen level.
Again, your water quality is limited by the seawater being imported. If you start off with high TOC (carbon) then it will only be further concentrated in your system. This is where a smaller UV, ozone, and particulate filter can be used to treat incoming water. A slow steady flow is easy to filter. It may be easier to polish the seawater than process your tank water over and over.
Public aquariums treat incoming water with lanthanum chloride, then use a post mechanical filter to collect the sediment. Try your local pool store and make sure it is pure.
http://www.poolsonly.com/natural-chemistry-phos-free/prod_309.html