A detailed journey of the demise of my DT, help desperatly sought

bgamble1

New member
1. How old is this aquarium? 3 months

2. If less than six months old, what is ammonia level? Below acceptable levels as measured by local fish store

3. What is SG of this aquarium? How measured? At time I noticed the disease, 1.024, hydrometer

4. When was the last fish added to this aquarium? I added 2 fish 3 weeks before I noticed the disease

5. Was it quarantined? If so, how? And how long? Was it prophylactically treated? How? They were not quarantined

6. If you are using a copper based medication, which one? How often do you measure level? When? Remaining 2 fish of 7 are in a 6g QT treated with Chloroquine Phosphate

7. If you are using hyposalinity, how did you calibrate your refractometer? No refractometer being used

8. Please describe in detail, the appearance of the fish? If there is one or more pimples, are they lumpy? What color? Initially, my yellow tang had sugar size white specs all over its body, it fell off within 24 hours. This began my journey of WTH am I doing?

9. Please describe the behavior of the fish as best you can. Is it acting reclusive? Is it always up towards the top of the aquarium? Is it avoiding light? How active is the fish? Surviving are a clown & a coral beauty after placement in a QT treated with chloroquine phosphate. The clown has a light whitish film and the coral beauty now has the sugar size white specs

10. Is the fish eating? What? The coral beauty is eating lightly, I do not see the clown eating but I only observe for like 5 minutes

Gear: 55 gallon DT, protein skimmer, bio pellet reactor, sump, 6 stage RO/DI.
Stock: Fish only tank - 1 wrasse, 2 tangs, 1 trigger, 1 coral beauty, 1 clown, 1 blenny, 3 nassarius snails that went into hiding since adding the trigger.

So, the whole story goes like this....

Day 1 - I notice my wrasse nipping at the fins of my yellow tang for about a week until white sugar like specks form all over the yellow tang. I order Chloroquine Phosphate off of eBay but wanted to do something now so I called my local fish store and he sells me on Kick-Ich saying it's what they use in all of their tanks. The instructions given were to turn off protein skimmer, turn temp up to 82 degrees, lower salinity to 1.009 and dose 4.5oz of Kick-Ich in my tank every other day for 14 days. Turned off protein skimmer, left on bio-pellet reactor and administered first day's dose. I asked if I should have a bubble maker in the tank and was told no.

Day 2 - The specks are now gone from the yellow tang. Wrasse now has the same specks.

Day 3 - Live rock & sand turning greenish brown (sorry color blind), 2nd dose of 4.5oz of Kick-Ich administered.

Day 4 - Specks are gone from wrasse but it started scratching up against rocks constantly. Larger bumpier white specks now present on yellow tang. Live rock & sand covered in more greenish brown stuff (algae?).

Day 5 - My blenny died even though showing no symptoms of anything. The small sugar like specs are now on my wrasse and both of my tangs. All fish appear to be breathing heavier than normal. 3rd dose of Kick-Ich administered. Tank just looks horrible at this point, covered in the greenish brown stuff. Concerned, I call the store and he asked the fish's symptoms. I told him about the breathing and asked me if I had bubbles going in the tank. Since my protein skimmer was off, there may be a lack of o2. He also suggested I bring in a water sample the next day. I immediately took 2 bubble makers and put them in the tank.

Day 6 - Wrasse and trigger fish were starting to go sideways, looked weaker. The wrasse stopped eating. Everyone else had an appetite, even the trigger. I took water sample to the store and they measured for salinity, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, alkalinity & ph. They showed me the results and the measurements were pretty much spot on where they should have been. I asked about the water changes and he said since the readings were good, it was better not to do one until the dosing is completed.

Day 7 - I woke up to a dead tang & wrasse. Throughout the day, the trigger & yellow tang died leaving me only the coral beauty & clown. The coral beauty was on her side breathing heavy and the clown had a whitish film on him but was swimming without issues. Pretty much assuming they would die without some kind of change in how I was attempting to save them, I quickly setup a 6 gallon tank, simple filter, bubble maker, put in a few pieces of PVC, got the temp to 80 degrees and salinity to 1.012. I then added 1/8 tsp of the Chloroquine Phosphate. I acclimated the clown for about 20 minutes then placed him in the tank. Having to blow the coral beauty from under the rock in the DT, I finally got her and I was certain she would be dead within minutes. I didn't acclimate, I just plopped her in the tank at which she sank to the bottom on her side still breathing heavy.

2 hours after placing the fish in the tank, the clown was just hanging out in the corner and the coral beauty was actually upright in one of the PVC pieces.

6 hours after placing the fish in the tank, the clown was being the same but the coral beauty was swimming around the tank. I fed some brine shrimp and the coral beauty ate a good amount. I did not see the clown eat.

Day 8 : 3/39/2015 - Clown fish doing the same, the coral beauty now has the white sugar size specks all over her but swimming with no issue. I fed some stuff called LRS which is supposed to be the best offered at the local fish store. It's like 13 different variety of mussel/fish/shrimp etc. I always add a drop or two of some potent garlic on the fish food so I did not change that and added a drop of garlic. The coral beauty lightly ate but again, I did not see the clown eat.

So here I am scratching my head. I've got the DT empty except the hidden snails. The temp is set to 82 degrees and am working on lowering the salinity to 1.009. I've turned back on my protein skimmer and the biopellet reactor is still running. It is my hope that all that, what I assume to be algae, and all parasites die a miserable horrible death.

My questions are:

1. Obvious, any ideas why so many fish died and so why so fast? Some not even showing signs of ich. With the water checking out as good, is it possible something else on top of ich was killing my fish?

2. Is 30 days long enough to nuke the bad stuff in my tank?

3. Any suggestions on the treatment of my 2 remaining fish? I just assume they will live in that tank for the 30 day treatment. I plan on doing 50% water changes every week in the QT replacing the lost dosage of Chlorquine Phosphate.

Thank you to everyone who is willing to help out a noob in advance!

Now empty tank minus the 3 snails:
20150329_084130.jpg


QT tank:
20150329_084157.jpg
 
I too have learned the hard way. I suggest, if you have time, is to read the stickies posted about ick and quarantine procedures.

It is recommended to leave your dt tank fallow for 72 days, not 30, to be sure your tank is ick free.

Continue treating your remaining fish the way you are. I prefer tank transfer method.
 
A detailed journey of the demise of my DT, help desperatly sought

Sugar sized specks sounds like velvet, and how quickly things went down too.

I am sure the dz expert Steve will be around shortly...
 
You've started to do everything you can for your fish and the future health of your display tank.
Keep QT with the CP. Remeber as little light as possible and preferably for across the room lamp or something like that. What dosage did you go with for CP? Also like they said before. Keep the tank without fish for 72 days. It sucks but it'll guarantee there's no parasites left in the tank. From now on QT all your fish. Put more PVC pipes in the QT tank. It'll allow for more surface for bacteria to grow and it'll make the fish more comfortable. Make,sure you aren't running carbon on your HOB filter. Good luck and sorry about your lost. When you start adding fish do it slowly.
 
@bc1281: Thanks for the advice on the time to keep the tank empty
@firemedix911: I had a 6 gallon tank which I filled up with 5 gallons. The CP measurement was 1/8 tsp. Thanks for the advice on the PVC. I'll cut some more today. Copy that on the Ammonia levels.
 
Although you no doubt have a disease in your tank which sounds like ick, I'm wondering if raising the temp killed your fish. Did you verify the temp on a thermometer or just raise the thermostat on your heater?
 
And I meant to say 3/29/2015 :)

Day 9 - 3/30/2015 - The coral beauty & clown fish appear to be doing good. The coral beauty has no white specks on it and the clown is eating normally now which is a big relief. I did a 25% water change on the QT due to the ammonia reading being 2.0 ppm. I'll be sure to test often as it is only 5 gallons for 2 fish. Perhaps I'll jump on Craigslist and see if there's a 20g or so for cheap.
 
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...
Day 1... my local fish store and he sells me on Kick-Ich saying it's what they use in all of their tanks. ...

Dump that fish store!!!

...
The instructions given were to turn off protein skimmer, turn temp up to 82 degrees, lower salinity to 1.009 ...

Is that a typo or does it actually say to lower the salinity to 1.009?
That would be the effective level for hyposalinity treatment and would alone kill ich without the need to waste money on a completely ineffective product.
But to get and maintain this salinity properly you need a refractometer!

Did you actually follow theses instructions?
Did you remove all inverts (crabs, snails, corals,...) before lowering the salinity? They won't survive in such low salinity and screw up the water big time. The picture of your DT looks like that happened.

The white specks and how they come and go sounds like Ich (Cryptocaryon). It usually needs to be bad to kill fish en-mass like you had it.

The deaths of your fish sound more like ammonia poisoning and/or oxygen deprivation from the dead and decaying snails and what other inverts were in the tank.
 
And I meant to say 3/29/2015 :)

Day 9 - 3/30/2015 - The coral beauty & clown fish appear to be doing good. The coral beauty has no white specks on it and the clown is eating normally now which is a big relief. I did a 25% water change on the QT due to the ammonia reading being 2.0 ppm. I'll be sure to test often as it is only 5 gallons for 2 fish. Perhaps I'll jump on Craigslist and see if there's a 20g or so for cheap.

Petco has a $1 per gallon sale right now. You can pick up a 20g for $20.
 
Yep, as ThRoewer pointed out. the "lower salinity to 1.009" nuked the life on the rock... I've always heard hyposalinity should only be used in a QT tank. And it's difficult to maintain.

30 days of properly maintained Hyposalinity will kill ich, the difficult part, is you have to be absolutely certain it never got above 1.009. (due to evaporation).. some people recommend 1.008.

Another option is to just return your display to proper salinity and dose that with CP as well -you've already done the damage with hypo. give it 21 days and you should be good to go with returning the fish. You'll probably want to be doing some major water changes to the 55 gallon before returning the fish. (a few 50%).. get the water clean/clear looking again.
 
Yep, as ThRoewer pointed out. the "lower salinity to 1.009" nuked the life on the rock... I've always heard hyposalinity should only be used in a QT tank. And it's difficult to maintain.

30 days of properly maintained Hyposalinity will kill ich, the difficult part, is you have to be absolutely certain it never got above 1.009. (due to evaporation).. some people recommend 1.008.

...

I always hear this utter nonsense that a low salinity is difficult to maintain. Actually the opposite is true.

Keeping a low salinity of 1.009 stable is much easier than to maintain your regular salinity of 1.026. You need to evaporate about 3 times more water to go from 1.009 to 1.010 than to go from 1.026 to 1.027.

And if you ether use an auto top off system or refill manually at least twice a day it will be always in range. Also 1.009 is the bottom of the range. You can get as high as 1.011 and it should still prevent protomonts from encysting.

Hyposalinity can be done in a FOWLR tank if all inverts are removed and the salinity is lowered slowly over several days to give the bacteria time to aclimate. But you need to keep your skimmer running to remove the inevitable die-off of worms and other micro critters.

Though I wouldn't do it that way and rather use a separate hospital tank.
 
Day 10 - 13 Both fish in QT doing great, eating well looking good. Doing a 20% water change twice a week just to be overly cautious.

@ThRoewer
@mitchrapp
@Mishri

Thank you very much for your responses.

It seems then I should invest in a Refractometer. Currently using a Hyrdrometer. My salinity is around 1.010 and I am using an auto-top off.

Right now, I have the biopellet reactor, carbon reactor & skimmer running. Temp has been between 81-82F. I've had it covered keeping the water in complete darkness as well.

The only stock in the DT tank now is the 3 Nassarius snails. 2 of the 3 popped out yesterday. So it is suggested then I remove them from the tank as well. I'll see if I can dig them up. Sometimes they get near/under the rock so crossing my fingers.

The water right now is crystal clear. Lucky me, 2 of the snails popped out for the pic :).

 
Was it just a cheap swingarm hydrometer like you find at pet stores? Those are way to inaccurate to get the salinity right for hyposalinity treatment.

A glass spindle hydrometer can be good too if it is an expensive lab grade one. I had a set before where each hydrometer only covered a small part of the full scale and therefore was quite accurate. But those cost more than a good refractometer and have no temperature compensation.

If using a refractometer for hyposalinity treatment you need to calibrate it with distilled or RO water (calibrate the "0" point).
If using it for maintaining proper ocean salinity you need to calibrate it with a 35ppt calibration standard.
 
Yes, it's the cheap hydrometer you are speaking of. Ordering a good refractometer today.

Went with a Milwaukee Digital as I've read some good reviews on this contraption.
 
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The salinity refractometer are almost all the same, just rebranded. Important is that they are specifically for salinity and have automatic temperature compensation (ATC).

I got the Seaside one for $45 and it looks precisely like several other ones I saw for a much higher price, right down to the box and accessories.
 
Day 14 Everything fine
Day 15 Coral beauty not eating, clown ok (did a 50% water change)
Day 16 In the PM, the coral beauty went belly up. Ammonia levels were at 4.0 ppm even though I just did a water change the day before. I'm assuming this had a hand in it. Low and behold, as I read about Chloroquine Phosphate, one of the "Bewares" is that it can cause an Ammonia spike. Did another 50% water change. Lesson learned, never use a 5 (4 gallons filled) gallon tank to hospital 2 fish with CP. ugh!
Bought a 20 gallon tank on Craigslist, scrubbing it/filling it.
Day 17 Clown is doing good, eating fine.

Question: Should I put the clown in the 20 gallon tank now that he's been in the small tank treated with CP for 2 weeks? I'm just afraid the small sized tank's chemistry changes too rapidly.
 
Day 18 Setup the 20g tank & added the clown. Going to attempt to make my own DIY protein skimmer. Clown doing fine, appetite is good.
Day 19 Added dry rock to 20g tank. Waiting for protein skimmer wood stone to arrive. Added some Ammonia treating filter pad I got from the LFS.
Day 20 - 23 No issues, Clown still doing good.
 
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