In a newer tank you're going to have to try for weekly changes of 10% IMO.
How long is your light cycle? What % white are you running compared to blue?
If you want corals to thrive you're going to have to cut back on GFO and feed more, even though you may get more algae. Try some algae flake food for the tang, I know my Kole loves it.
PO4 is in the rocks and the algae is feeding on it, so make sure to blow the rocks off with a turkey baster weekly.
Tanks can be ugly for 6 months to a year, you may just have to tolerate it for a while. If you can't grow cheato but micro algae is thriving then you probably have a limiting nutrient. You might be driving PO4 or nitrate too low. I have 20+ nitrates in my 150 and no significant algae because the tangs eat it. Maybe higher nutrients make the algae taste better?
I think I'm running either 10 or 11 hours on my daylight cycle. That starts with the blue/uv/color channel ramping up as a sunrise. Then the white/color channel kicks on and ramps up about 1/2 hour later. I also run my blue/uv moonlight channel as a little more actinic supplement for extra par. All channels run in a slope program up over 3 or 4 hours. On blue/uvs they go up to 100% and 85 or 90% on the white/color. Right now I need that mixture to hit decent par levels.
I've considered 2 things. I'd like to fill up the rest of my heatsink with 6 or 8 (however many open slots) on each side of the tank. I was going to add in only additional royal blue leds to the remaining slots. This would give me better coverage and spread, along with higher over all par. Then I could drop the white/color channel down another 10 or 15% The second thing I've considered is shortening the white/color cycle down to maybe 7 or 8 hours but let the blue/uv/moonlights run the current schedule.
I can check the RA programming soon for the exact schedule.
I've never had No3 issues in my system. With RDSB in a dedicated 75 gallon refugium for a 90 gallon DT, I've fed heavily with reef roids at a point and No3 wouldn't ever get above 10. Once or twice it pushed closer to 15/20 before an over-do water change. I look forward to when this is all balanced, because my tank could handle more No3 and probably appreciate it.
I have had a big problem with Po4 though. I recently started trying to address that issue. Within the last 3 or 4 months anyway. It was between .15 and .2 when I first started getting algae. But No3 was still registering 0 to 10. So I started up the dual GFO reactor around Christmas time. Since then we've had a downward trend in Po4 readings on the Hanna ULR. I don't believe it when I get 0. But as long as it's saying 0 to below .1, that's what I'm shooting for. That way it will at least keep it from building up any more then it may have already. And that's at least for the time to see if that is the algae issue.
Because I do agree. I think I was processing No3 with no problem, but Po4 built up in the system. That's why I could never keep macro's alive, because there wasn't much No3 for them to process. But micro's love Po4 it looks like to me.
I blow off the rockwork multiple times a week. Not quite daily. But probably 4-5 times a week at least. And DisBeReef cleans algae usually for an hour or two a week to try and pull out loose stuff.
- So here's where my tests were this morning -
Alk started testing low, closer to 7 when I switched from the Salifert Alk kit to the Hanna tester I won. I had been keeping it stable between 7.8 and 8.1 on the Salifert kit for a long time. I had some Alkaline powder ordered and got that in this weekend. So I will slowly start bringing the Alk up towards 8.0.
I also dosed Mg because I've been slowly trying to raise that up from 1290-1320 up to 1400 as a baseline.
Ca had dropped down from 410-420, so I added a dose for that as well to bump it back up. Ca usually sits between 420 and 450.
I'm finding I need to add about 90-120 mL of Mg every week or two in order to keep it stable. Ca seems to keep really stable and doesn't have much trouble being supplemented by the Kalk running in the ATO. I keep the supplement on hand just to bump it up every few months if it gets a little behind. Alk seemed to be fine the whole time I was using the Salifert kit. Seemed like the Kalk was keeping up with it as well. But I'm wondering if that was accurate. It looks like I might need to dose a little Alk supplement a little more often to balance the demand.
I don't have a current full tank shot. But I'll try to get one up soon. The lights haven't turned on for the day yet.
But I do have some other things I can share that look better then a FTS and all the algae. These are the things keeping me cheery about the tank right now.
Comparison shots!
- Pink Monti Cap, 12/31/14 - on phone camera
- Pink Monti Cap, 3/25/15 - on phone camera
- Pink Monti Cap, 3/28/15 - on NEW DSLR

Can't wait to get things looking good and take some awesome pictures with this thing!
All the DSLR shots were just with the camera on auto settings. Trying out a new toy. The pink monti shot is really accurate to color and hasn't been post-processed at all.
- New red Blastos (with neon green lips on mouth) - DSLR
- Prism Favia - phone cam
- "Raptors Peace" Favia looking for a snack - phone cam
This piece recently started getting more flow and I think it loves it. I see the feeder tentacles out way more often then I ever did before. This piece also started off as one head and has formed a second since we got it.