A Reefaholic's 1000+ Gallon Mixed Reef System Build

That's a tough one Dustin! I have used Water Weld, they sell it at Lowes. I had a small leak at the bottom of one of my overflows and it worked great! Perhaps you could also use a ton of superglue gel, if you can get it down that deep, just around the edges. There are also a few different water proof pastes that might work.
 
Bud was very gracious and called me about this one and we talked about it for a while....He believes weld-on 40 might be the best solution and am awaiting James to comment on what the best solution is! Frustrating but I'll get through it, just another barrier on a large build to beat...
 
Not that I know anything about this, but if the existing material is already cracked wouldn't it just get worse over time? Is there any way you can chisel out the existing material without causing too much damage? Anything with cracks is just another pathway for water to follow, and if it doesn't leak with your new solution, it will still harbour dirt and bacteria.

Dave.M
 
Not that I know anything about this, but if the existing material is already cracked wouldn't it just get worse over time? Is there any way you can chisel out the existing material without causing too much damage? Anything with cracks is just another pathway for water to follow, and if it doesn't leak with your new solution, it will still harbour dirt and bacteria.

Dave.M

The theory is to completely cover the epoxy so should not be a worry with the cracks if water never touches them.

As far as taking out the epoxy, I'm not sure. I've not tried but wanted to find out opinions first! It'd be really hard to do if it's really stuck though as access is limited.

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Man that is a hiccup. I had that same problem with my overflow. All I did was cut a piece of acrylic to size, used Weldon 16 to keep it in place or the Weldon 40 might be better, recut the wholes, waited about a week for it to cure, and I had a tight seal.
 
Man that is a hiccup. I had that same problem with my overflow. All I did was cut a piece of acrylic to size, used Weldon 16 to keep it in place or the Weldon 40 might be better, recut the wholes, waited about a week for it to cure, and I had a tight seal.

I'm just not too certain how well that'd work with all the epoxy that's stuck inside the tank.
 
I've tried to chip away at it as much as I can, just dont think it would be a perfect flat acrylic surface which the gasket needs.
 
sooooooo... they cheaped out and used male adapters rather than actual bulkhead fittings?

How high do the adapters stick out above the epoxy?
If they rise up 1/2" or so, I guess you could float a layer of WO 40 on top of the epoxy so that it touches and seals everything, 1/4" thick layer ought to do, but sickens me to think about it. Just not the way to properly do things, but I guess we're at a point of no return at this point?

I don't know how big the overflow is so can't really say how much to buy, but do some math - figure out what the volume of a 1/4" layer in there would be and then buy double that much at least. 40 will evaporate and shrink ~20% if not more so you will need a bit.
If you do this, do not try to mix the whole batch at once. Mix no more than a quart at a time, preferable less and pour as soon as you can, then make another batch and pour it ASAP until you achieved 1/4"+ layer. If you have to glue in some PVC pipe as risers - well, has to be done.

Personally, I would cut out the whole section and replace it with new acrylic but that gets to be a rather involved project unto itself.

Keep in mind that WO 40 may cause crazing on the existing acrylic. There's no way for me to know if it will or not, but it has been known to happen. Also, the 40 might cause some irritation in the mucous membranes so be aware if you're sensitive to such things. Really not the best way to build a tank, but from what I understand, just need to get it to work?

Another option: can they not be drilled out at all? you might be able to run the gaskets inverted to the flange/gasket is on the outside where the surface is flat?

I'll try to check back in a day or two to see about any responses :)

Hope all is well,
James
 
James, greatly appreciate you weighing in on this. I know it's not ideal and ifI could do it all over again, I'd just order a new tank and would not have bought this used...Just was a good price for an un-used tank. That being said, I've got what I've got and i want to make sure it's safe and leak free. Whoever installed the fittings were just being cheap, and it's a bit frustrating that it leaked when I dry fitted/tested this weekend.

Bud/I have been having some discussions via e-mail and his recommendation was the Weld-On 40. Drilling out and putting in bulkheads really would not be a possibility due to the spacing. At this point, if the weld-on 40 does not work, I'll plate the bottom and drill the back of the aquarium's overflow box and just install bulkheads there. Not my ideal solution but a solution, nonetheless!

As far as volume, I had a sketchup drawing of it to the 1/8" so I came up with a footprint of 8"X42" = 384 sq inches (Square footprint plus the two triangles surface space) Put 8"X42"X.25" into volume calculator and get .4 gallons.

.4 gallons times 1.2 for the shrinkage and it comes out to .48 gallons. I sent wife after the weld-on 40 today and she was picking up 4 pints for me so I'm RIGHT ON THE MONEY! You could deduct the hole/fitting surface area and it'd be less space so we should clear the 1/4" you recommended.

Some questions:

- Crazing, is that caused by the heat the Weld-On 40 generates when mixed? Any way to help keep it cooler? Should I add a fan or should I be worried about it setting too fast that way?
- Should I sand the PVC to make it bite better? Same for acrylic?

If you have any other helpful tips please share as I could get this knocked out tonight/tomorrow night. Thanks again!
 
Also, the 40 might cause some irritation in the mucous membranes so be aware if you're sensitive to such things.

Yeah this one take seriously. WO40 is about the rankest smelling glue you will ever use. Make sure to do this on a day when no one else is in the house, and open all the windows 'cause it's gonna reek. We used about 2 tablespoons of the stuff at MACNA 2011 to fix a cracked tank and you could smell it 50 feet away in a exhibition space with 40 foot ceilings.
 
Yeah this one take seriously. WO40 is about the rankest smelling glue you will ever use. Make sure to do this on a day when no one else is in the house, and open all the windows 'cause it's gonna reek. We used about 2 tablespoons of the stuff at MACNA 2011 to fix a cracked tank and you could smell it 50 feet away in a exhibition space with 40 foot ceilings.

So probably not a good idea with a pregnant wife around! Might have to plan for Saturday morning then when she is at work!

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Oh...a big yes to that one. No pregnant wife anywhere near the house during this operation. Crack open the big canister and take a whiff, and you will understand.
 
Some questions:

- Crazing, is that caused by the heat the Weld-On 40 generates when mixed? Any way to help keep it cooler? Should I add a fan or should I be worried about it setting too fast that way?
- Should I sand the PVC to make it bite better? Same for acrylic?

If you have any other helpful tips please share as I could get this knocked out tonight/tomorrow night. Thanks again!
Crazing is caused by stress; whether it be thermal, chemical, or physical. WO 40 does get hot, hot enough to spontaneously combust if you make enough of it; hence the recommendation to mix smaller quantities. Given the final surface area - it will cool relatively quickly so that's not something I'm *terribly* concerned with, but.. It's also a solvent, so will cause chemical stresses as well. Not knowing how much stress the existing parts have been through, all I can say is be careful. I don't know the brand/type of acrylic it is, if the overflow was heat bent or glued, etc., so just be careful with it. If it gets too hot, you can slow the reaction by using 25:1 or 30:1 ratio rather than the listed 20:1 ratio. I'd probably go 25:1 on the first batch and see how it goes. Don't worry about a fan except to blow away the vapors.

The monomer:catalyst ratio determines how "hot" it is both thermally, and reactively. a 10:1 ratio is very hot and has a very short pot life, wider ratios will be cooler and longer pot life, but you really don't want to go above 30:1 or so - it still has to catalyze and work. You will need to work relatively quickly, you'll have 5-10 minutes max on the pot life so have everything prepared and at the ready prior to mixing anything. Mix it up in a poly tub of some sort - old margarine tubs or similar work great. If you've got a few of them around - all the better. I'd probably opt for a narrower tub, at least something that will fit inside the overflow with some room to maneuver. I'm guessing you'll want to pour directly from the tub to the application surface. When you mix it, you will see tons of bubbles, don't worry about it, almost all of them will float out when you apply it.

Cover the fittings with Scotch tape to make sure you don't get any inside the fittings. Don't spill the stuff on anything. If you do, whatever it touches is essential toast. Peel the tape immediately when your done in that area otherwise that tape will never come out. Reason I mention Scotch tape rather than anything else is simply that the stuff doesn't stick to Scotch tape very will as compared to other varieties.

Sanding the PVC and acrylic is not beneficial IME. It won't hurt anything, but never helps either (even with silicone FWIW.) The only prep work to do is to blow out any particulate matter with compressed air and then wipe the PVC and acrylic with denatured alcohol (shellac thinner)

Once applied, the 40 will start to skin within minutes and will be hardened enough to move within a few hours. 24 hours later, should be good to go.

FWIW, it's not that big a deal to work with, in fact it's pretty easy, but also easy to screw up if not real careful.

Good luck with it :beer:
 
Again, much appreciated on the tips. I was planning on mixing, adding to a funnel through a PVC pipe to the bottom of the overflow box. I guess my original thinking was that I'd do this so I could mix a larger batch and pour in at once to get a nice even coat that was all mixed at once. With your suggestions, guess that is not a good idea?!

Once mixed does the viscosity stay the same or does it get thicker once the calalyst and monomer are mixed?

Waiting to be used:)
IMG_2281_zpsb50320f6.jpg
 
Since I'm going to have to wait to do the Weld-On 40 until the wife is out of the house for a good portion of the day will have to wait until Saturday morning.

That being said, tonight went ahead and sealed platform to stand with silicone and painted bottom platform with fresh coat of paint.
IMG_2282_zps2b1f506d.jpg


Tomorrow night will be pouring down a layer of epoxy so below the tank is waterproof.
IMG_2283_zps66010b8f.jpg
 
Again, much appreciated on the tips. I was planning on mixing, adding to a funnel through a PVC pipe to the bottom of the overflow box. I guess my original thinking was that I'd do this so I could mix a larger batch and pour in at once to get a nice even coat that was all mixed at once. With your suggestions, guess that is not a good idea?!

Once mixed does the viscosity stay the same or does it get thicker once the calalyst and monomer are mixed?
the more you mix, the hotter it will get and the shorter the pot life. Since the reaction releases heat, the heat needs somewhere to go otherwise it keeps building and temps rise. In cases like this, the larger the volume - the hotter it gets, and the shorter the pot life. Mix enough, and it can create enough heat to self-ignite.

Funnel and pipe *may* work, may not, the viscosity may make this process problematic; at best you'll lose waste a lot of it just sticking to the funnel and pipe.

Once mixed, it will remain viscous for a few minutes, but not long. It will start to thicken up within 5 minutes or so.

HTH,
James
 
Cajones of steel are taken when you ride Motocross, I don't do that anymore....But just being stupid, I'm that:)

I managed to pick up some tubs for mixing as well as the alcohol for prep work. Tonight will be taping/cleaning it all out and putting epoxy under stand to water proof it. Always a project....Rather than going with the funnel/pipe route, due to James's concerns I picked up a few quart mixing tubs so I can have everything laid out and ready to go. I might need an extra hand to make sure I move quickly enough and the batches are being mixed while I'm pouring and so on...
 
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