A very large aquarium in a very small condo!
- Thread starter captngreg
- Start date
pch90265
Premium Member
Highly inspirational thread Captain! Subscribed!!!
I appreciate the level of detail you've put into providing background on each of your vendor selections in the major areas of dry equipment.
Good luck with the system, can't wait to see the results over the next few months as you bring it together!!!
I appreciate the level of detail you've put into providing background on each of your vendor selections in the major areas of dry equipment.
Good luck with the system, can't wait to see the results over the next few months as you bring it together!!!
captngreg
New member
dave.m
Dave sorry I never gave you quick response. I`ve been in Peru working on the tank, just got back to the ship yesterday. Lights are 16¨inches above the waterline. I did consider a rack lifting system. I put it on the back burner for now. I just could not come up with a system that could be contained 100% inside the hood that would work for me. As of now what I do if I need to do work in an area of the tank is just unhook one or two lights and set them on top of the lights next to them. It works for now, not very high teck, and I´m sure once I run out of projects on the tank & filter I`ll start work on a lifting rack for the lights.
captngreg
Dave sorry I never gave you quick response. I`ve been in Peru working on the tank, just got back to the ship yesterday. Lights are 16¨inches above the waterline. I did consider a rack lifting system. I put it on the back burner for now. I just could not come up with a system that could be contained 100% inside the hood that would work for me. As of now what I do if I need to do work in an area of the tank is just unhook one or two lights and set them on top of the lights next to them. It works for now, not very high teck, and I´m sure once I run out of projects on the tank & filter I`ll start work on a lifting rack for the lights.
captngreg
captngreg
New member
Geraud
YES a lot. If you have read this thread you know I work off shore, I work for two months and am off for one. This time off I spent most of my time working on the tank. Later on today I will continue to post updates & pictures in the order they happened. I think it would take the fun out of it to jump right to the end.
captngreg
YES a lot. If you have read this thread you know I work off shore, I work for two months and am off for one. This time off I spent most of my time working on the tank. Later on today I will continue to post updates & pictures in the order they happened. I think it would take the fun out of it to jump right to the end.
captngreg
captngreg
New member
Aquanist
OK
Moving the tank in to its final position:
Due to the limited working space I need the tank & stand to be mobile during the first part of construction. There were times when we need to work in the area in which the tank would ultimately occupy, and other time we need the living room space to work or just have a place to sit or eat. To accomplish this we built strong back that could be position under the main supports to the stand and with the help of two four ton hydric car jacks we could lift the entire aquarium assembly on to three dollies.
Now that the tank construction is finish, the lights are installed, the wall painted, the vents installed in the back wall, and most of the return pluming has been hung on the back of the hood, it's time to position the tank into its final position.
Place the strong backs into position, set the hydric jacks and start lifting the tank off the dollies.
Remove the dollies from under the stand.
Place shim material where need to insure the tank will be perfectly level, and lower the tank & stand to the floor.
THE TANK IS IN POSITION !!!!!!
OK
Moving the tank in to its final position:
Due to the limited working space I need the tank & stand to be mobile during the first part of construction. There were times when we need to work in the area in which the tank would ultimately occupy, and other time we need the living room space to work or just have a place to sit or eat. To accomplish this we built strong back that could be position under the main supports to the stand and with the help of two four ton hydric car jacks we could lift the entire aquarium assembly on to three dollies.
Now that the tank construction is finish, the lights are installed, the wall painted, the vents installed in the back wall, and most of the return pluming has been hung on the back of the hood, it's time to position the tank into its final position.
Place the strong backs into position, set the hydric jacks and start lifting the tank off the dollies.
Remove the dollies from under the stand.
Place shim material where need to insure the tank will be perfectly level, and lower the tank & stand to the floor.
THE TANK IS IN POSITION !!!!!!
SUPPOReefer
New member
Nice update. Glad that the tank is in it's final resting place. Look forward to seeing the rest of the progress you made.
Newbie Aquarist
Reefing is my middle name
Now that you have that burden off your shoulders, I want to say that was a very impressive move to have the tank redone and to have it done right. I applaud you.
captngreg
New member
SUPPOReefer
anbosu
Newbie Aquarist
Adam G
Thanks another update is already in the works.
anbosu
Wow I would be so very happy, if my tank was just half as good as some of the builds hear on RC.
Newbie Aquarist
I couldn't agree more. Taking a step back and tearing the tank down and doing it right had to of been the best decision I have made during this entire build.
Adam G
Not to give too much away but the tank is already wet! I just want to post each step in the order it was accomplished.
captngreg
New member
Installing the filter-refugiums:
The filter-refugiums where custom built out of ½" acrylic. Each unit has six areas that are used for different purposes.
1) The return aquarium water is split and enters one of the two filters-refugiums. The first compartment contains the skimmer a (Tunze Master DOC Skimmer 9440.000 with two Hydrofoamer pumps). The discharge from the skimmer is directed into the next compartment. There is an elongated hole between these two compartments to allow for any imbalance arising from the amount of water going throw the skimmer and the amount of water entering the first compartment of filters-refugium.
2) Second compartment is the debubbling compartment. The discharge from the skimmer enters this space at the top. The compartment is filled with gulf ball size very pores lightweight pieces of live rock. These rocks sit on a raised floor made out of egg crate. This space is shielded from light by black acrylic. The water flows down through the rocks and under a wall & backup to an overflow, leading to the third compartment.
3) The third compartment is a cryptic zone. This space is filed with very pores lightweight pieces of live rock and is also shielded from light by black acrylic.
4) Fourth compartment is a dedicated refugium. On the bottom there are custom made acrylic boxes 2.5 inches deep. These boxes will be filled with Miracle Mud. This space is lit by a special Orphek pennant with a light spectrum designed specifically to grow algae.
5) The fifth compartment is a multipurpose space. It can be divided into three separate areas with removable partitions. ¼" plastic webbing is molded into each partition to allow water to pass through. Since I do not have the space for a fish or equipment room this area is my acclamation "“ frag tank, and or can be used for additional refugium space. It is lit by a 24" dual T5 fixture using Orphek 24" White, Blue and UV T5 LED Tube
6) Finally the sump, The sump will house a 1000 watt 230 volt stainless steel heater, three material reactors one each containing carbon, RowaPhos & Phosban and each sump will have a temp probe and a PH probe.
7) Each sump will have its own external Dolphin Amp Master Diamond Marine Abrasive Proof Pump - 4750 GPH (Type-4) they are quiet. This pump powers the filter-refugium and its three material reactors.
Drilling the holes for the bulkhead fittings & crossovers
Installing the filter-refugium
During the water test we found a small leak. With this installation I did not want to take any chances so instead of fixing the leak only we used EPO A+B epoxy Putty to reinforced & resealed all outside seams. It might not look that great but in this case, the piece of mind was worth it.
The filter-refugiums where custom built out of ½" acrylic. Each unit has six areas that are used for different purposes.
1) The return aquarium water is split and enters one of the two filters-refugiums. The first compartment contains the skimmer a (Tunze Master DOC Skimmer 9440.000 with two Hydrofoamer pumps). The discharge from the skimmer is directed into the next compartment. There is an elongated hole between these two compartments to allow for any imbalance arising from the amount of water going throw the skimmer and the amount of water entering the first compartment of filters-refugium.
2) Second compartment is the debubbling compartment. The discharge from the skimmer enters this space at the top. The compartment is filled with gulf ball size very pores lightweight pieces of live rock. These rocks sit on a raised floor made out of egg crate. This space is shielded from light by black acrylic. The water flows down through the rocks and under a wall & backup to an overflow, leading to the third compartment.
3) The third compartment is a cryptic zone. This space is filed with very pores lightweight pieces of live rock and is also shielded from light by black acrylic.
4) Fourth compartment is a dedicated refugium. On the bottom there are custom made acrylic boxes 2.5 inches deep. These boxes will be filled with Miracle Mud. This space is lit by a special Orphek pennant with a light spectrum designed specifically to grow algae.
5) The fifth compartment is a multipurpose space. It can be divided into three separate areas with removable partitions. ¼" plastic webbing is molded into each partition to allow water to pass through. Since I do not have the space for a fish or equipment room this area is my acclamation "“ frag tank, and or can be used for additional refugium space. It is lit by a 24" dual T5 fixture using Orphek 24" White, Blue and UV T5 LED Tube
6) Finally the sump, The sump will house a 1000 watt 230 volt stainless steel heater, three material reactors one each containing carbon, RowaPhos & Phosban and each sump will have a temp probe and a PH probe.
7) Each sump will have its own external Dolphin Amp Master Diamond Marine Abrasive Proof Pump - 4750 GPH (Type-4) they are quiet. This pump powers the filter-refugium and its three material reactors.
Drilling the holes for the bulkhead fittings & crossovers
Installing the filter-refugium
During the water test we found a small leak. With this installation I did not want to take any chances so instead of fixing the leak only we used EPO A+B epoxy Putty to reinforced & resealed all outside seams. It might not look that great but in this case, the piece of mind was worth it.
captngreg
New member
Finishing the in tank pluming:
The return pluming that was hung on the back wall has now been connected with the return line coming up throw the bottom of the tank and then thru the overflow box using a 1.5" universal and several 45 degree PVC fittings. We added a 1" Hayward one-way valve just above the overflow box as a siphon break. I'm not sure its need, because the top return ends in a Loc-Line 3/4in Y Fitting with two Loc-Line 3 /4 inches Socket Flare Nozzle placed just under the waterline and parallel to the surface. These nozzles will help push the surface water towards the overflow boxes at either end of the tank and ensure that very little if any water can be siphoned back into the refugiums. The remaining outlet lines are fitted with 1 Inch Hydra Aquatics Twist Water Flow Accelerators. This Hydra Aquatics Twist really doesn't accelerate the water flow much but they do a good job at randomizing the flow. Every outlet line has its own Hayward valve to control the flow rate.
Next we added the two 1.5" closed loop return that tee into a single 2" return under the tank, along with the plumbing & 3/4" Penguin Penductors for the two end 1.5" closed loop outlets. The 1.5" outlets are split using a 1.5" PVC four way, into four 1" lines. Two of these lines run up under the overflow boxes. All the lines running under the overflow boxes will be concealed by an acrylic & rock wall, along with the return lines on the center back wall of the tank.
Lastly I installed the two middle closed loop outlets. I use a 1.5" manifold PVC fitting with four 3/4" outlets each affixed to Loc-Line 3/4in and ending with Penguin Predictors.
:fun4: Now all I have to do, is come up with a rockwork design that will conceal all this pluming. My hope is to have no visible pluming or pumps in the tank. :rollface:
Loc-Line-3-4-inch-x-3-inch-Ball-Socket-Flare-Nozzle
Hydra-Aquatics-Twist-Water-Flow-Accelerators-1-Inch
Hydra-Aquatics-Twist-Water-Flow-Accelerators-1-Inch
Penguin Predictors.
The return pluming that was hung on the back wall has now been connected with the return line coming up throw the bottom of the tank and then thru the overflow box using a 1.5" universal and several 45 degree PVC fittings. We added a 1" Hayward one-way valve just above the overflow box as a siphon break. I'm not sure its need, because the top return ends in a Loc-Line 3/4in Y Fitting with two Loc-Line 3 /4 inches Socket Flare Nozzle placed just under the waterline and parallel to the surface. These nozzles will help push the surface water towards the overflow boxes at either end of the tank and ensure that very little if any water can be siphoned back into the refugiums. The remaining outlet lines are fitted with 1 Inch Hydra Aquatics Twist Water Flow Accelerators. This Hydra Aquatics Twist really doesn't accelerate the water flow much but they do a good job at randomizing the flow. Every outlet line has its own Hayward valve to control the flow rate.
Next we added the two 1.5" closed loop return that tee into a single 2" return under the tank, along with the plumbing & 3/4" Penguin Penductors for the two end 1.5" closed loop outlets. The 1.5" outlets are split using a 1.5" PVC four way, into four 1" lines. Two of these lines run up under the overflow boxes. All the lines running under the overflow boxes will be concealed by an acrylic & rock wall, along with the return lines on the center back wall of the tank.
Lastly I installed the two middle closed loop outlets. I use a 1.5" manifold PVC fitting with four 3/4" outlets each affixed to Loc-Line 3/4in and ending with Penguin Predictors.
:fun4: Now all I have to do, is come up with a rockwork design that will conceal all this pluming. My hope is to have no visible pluming or pumps in the tank. :rollface:
Loc-Line-3-4-inch-x-3-inch-Ball-Socket-Flare-Nozzle
Hydra-Aquatics-Twist-Water-Flow-Accelerators-1-Inch
Hydra-Aquatics-Twist-Water-Flow-Accelerators-1-Inch
Penguin Predictors.
SUPPOReefer
New member
Congrats on getting the plumbing done!! Everything looks great. Cant wait to see the water movement with 8 eductors pushing water in the tank!!
captngreg
New member
Rockwork Part I
Building the rock walls
When we cut the large terrestrial Peruvian base rock into smaller manageable sizes, we kept as many natural surfaces' as possible, which resulted in piece of rock with no natural sides.
Since my design called for rock walls to hide overflow boxes & the return pluming I had these center pieces of rock cut into ½ to 3/4 inch slabs. Using ¼ black acrylic as a base I silicon plastic egg crate on to the acrylic. The egg crate made for a good surface that the cement could adhere to. Using the cement as mortar I attached the slabs of base rock to the acrylic & egg crate.
Once the cement had set we lifted the whole wall into place. I hope that by adding coral to the walls edges I will be able to soften some of the straight lines.
Building the rock walls
When we cut the large terrestrial Peruvian base rock into smaller manageable sizes, we kept as many natural surfaces' as possible, which resulted in piece of rock with no natural sides.
Since my design called for rock walls to hide overflow boxes & the return pluming I had these center pieces of rock cut into ½ to 3/4 inch slabs. Using ¼ black acrylic as a base I silicon plastic egg crate on to the acrylic. The egg crate made for a good surface that the cement could adhere to. Using the cement as mortar I attached the slabs of base rock to the acrylic & egg crate.
Once the cement had set we lifted the whole wall into place. I hope that by adding coral to the walls edges I will be able to soften some of the straight lines.
captngreg
New member
Rockwork Part II
Building the aquascape:
I must apologies up front, when it comes to artistic free flowing natural aquascaping I'm terrible!
Despite my shortcoming I had to do the job, I couldn't find anyone else that would even attempt this work, so here we go!
One of my chief goals was to cover up all visible signs of the pluming in the tank. I'm hoping I will be able to use coral to hide the end of the inductors & hide my rockwork as well!
Building the aquascape:
I must apologies up front, when it comes to artistic free flowing natural aquascaping I'm terrible!
Despite my shortcoming I had to do the job, I couldn't find anyone else that would even attempt this work, so here we go!
One of my chief goals was to cover up all visible signs of the pluming in the tank. I'm hoping I will be able to use coral to hide the end of the inductors & hide my rockwork as well!
o2manyfish
o2manyfish
I think the rockwork structure turned out well.
My only advice, is that you have so many straight lines of rock (on the back wall for example) If you make those edges more naturally shaped rather that straight you might be happier until the coral grows in naturally and blocks the straight edges.
But for all the plumbing you had to hide, you did great.
Dave B
My only advice, is that you have so many straight lines of rock (on the back wall for example) If you make those edges more naturally shaped rather that straight you might be happier until the coral grows in naturally and blocks the straight edges.
But for all the plumbing you had to hide, you did great.
Dave B
