a water change in real time

a thread to live vicariously through!

Nuthin' more boring than a water change, right?
I'd rather watch paint dry.

Okay... maybe not for some.
People are always asking questions about saltmixes and water changes. Others that been doing it for years and might want to review their techniques and who knows... maybe I'll learn something here!

Anyways, it's already begun. I starting prepping my new artificial seawater Friday afternoon.
Prepping ASW is a very important step:
if the salt is packaged in a larger batch than you plan on using in one preparation/water change you should make sure it's thorougly stirred up (dry) to ensure uniformity of product. This is important as (despite manufacturer claims) a settling of contents can occur.
Always note the manufacturer recommendations printed on the packaging for concentrations. Almost all salt manufacturers have instructions printed out that tell you how many gallons the product inside the container is designed to mix up at various concentrations.
It's a common mistake for someone to use one 50 gallon bag of saltmix and post that calcium levels are low only to find out they've mixed it to S.G. 1.02

For a reef aquarium we want S.G. @ 1.025- 1.026 and you shouldn't test for calcium, Mg or alkalinity until a S.G. of 1.026 is acheived.
You should use an accurate device to measure S.G./salinity. A calibrated refractometer or 16" floating glass hydrometer (corrected for temperature) are among the average hobbyists best choices. Swing arm hydrometers should be avoided because of their known shortcomings.

Always add saltmix slowly to aerating freshwater. Bring up to proper S.G. and temperature. Mix for 24 hours. For this particular water change I'm using Instant Ocean. It was sold in a box. Boxes contain 4 bags of mix. Bags in boxes are stamped with batch numbers. Test results for this batch are known and they're pretty good- the only thing I need to boost today is magnesium (Mg) and that's easily accomplished using Randy's recipe for Mg supplementation (a combo of magnesium chloride and magnesium sulfate).

Before starting the water change I feed my reef aquarium rather heavily. I started these heavier than normal feedings yesterday and have continued it with a nocturnal feeding earlier this morning followed by another heavy feeding once the aquarium lights came on about an hour ago.

It's now time to start removing old water from the system.
I use a wet skim method of removing water from the system. It's a slow way of removing old tankwater and (IME) the slower the better!
I'm going to raise the water level in my skimmer right up to the edge of the neck so that any and all skimmate foam will overflow into the collection cup. Skimmate will look like weak green tea.
My skimmer is in the basement and it's going to get really stinky down there in a minute :spin3:
 
Good stuff Gary! I'm battling high P04's rt now and have been doing weekly 50% WC's. I think I will employ this super wet skimming tactic as a way to drain old water.
 
Very cool, now we need the webcam feed my man!
I can manage half decent pix with my crummy P & S camera but I definitely need help with video! :D

Alright... I set up the skimmate drip at 9AM. Here's a pic of the drip rate
skimmate_removal.jpg


I've also slowly introduced an extremely small (10ml) dose of highly dilute Lanthanum chloride into a 10 micron filter sock. I dosed just enough LaCl2 to cause water draining into the filter sock to rise to the top of the sock so 100% of water coming down the drains passes through this sock.
10_micron_sock.jpg


Dosage of the LaCl2 causes skimmate to change appearance and viscocity and I adjust the drip skimmate accordingly. It's the dosing of Lanthanum chloride that will have a huge impact on PO4 levels as it acts as a flocculent.
 
and now it's time to read a book :reading:

or make breakfast and go sledding.

Seriously- nothing happens (except draining water!) until later this afternoon.
If I'm around I might rinse out the filter sock and do another small dose of LaCl2 but maybe not. I definitely need to go find some large pellet Spectrum for Junior :spin1:
 
Hi Gary,
Another nice thread.

Nice notes on mixing salt. It is also good to know that someone around here is using IO with Randy's recipe.

Since there is a BRS buy coming... did you buy your supplements from there, or did you follow Randy's suggestions about buying epsom salts (or some equivalent). I'm sure this information would be timely with the buy coming up.

I like the concept of slowly dripping out of the skimmer.
Mine is on the back of the tank and I would have to do some sort of modification to pull this off with Backpak unit I have.

Maybe I'll try to work something into the Kalk delivery system I'm making so that I can alternate between Kalk delivery and slow water exchange using the same system. I would think that would be possible.

with respect to bringing water up to temp. Do you bring up to room temperature or higher? I would think a slow drip wouldnt need much more than room temp especially in a high volume system like yours.

Do you always do water changes with this technique or do you also do water changes for also cleaning sand and rock if necessary?
 
One last thing.
How much water do you change out and over what time frame.
It looks like that water change would take days.

If you make a video.... make sure to get Brandon's audio for background music:fun4: You will need it... as dripping water isnt really exciting video material.
 
some music, eh? :dance:

Good questions.
For Mg I use a combo of BRS magnesium chloride and magnesium sulfate (epsom salts) in a 10:1 ratio. This particular ratio was formulated by Randy for those using a calcium reactor to supplement calcium and alkalinity.

I bring new saltwater up to at least 75F. Quickly introducing new saltwater that's cold is a sure way to stress sensitive Tangs.

I've been using this technique for water changes for well over a year now.
I was actually quite surprised to find out how long I've been doing this- my 10 micron filter bag is over a year old!

When I storm the tank (every so often) I do it before a water change and I skip administering LaCl2. (All the crap that gets blown around and sent down the drains clogs the 10 micron sock quickly so I don't need any flocculents.)

Now how about finding a recording of Carly Simon's 'Anticipation'.......
 
I wish that my saltwater mixing barrel was as nicely marked as Walter's but it's not. I mixed the new saltwater strength according to my refracto and I'm guesstimating that there's about 46 gallons of RO water in my barrel.

I've received numerous requests from people that want to see how I perform a water change and because of the time factor involved it's not practical for them to see it in person.
Hopefully this thread will answer any questions so please feel free to ask me anything.
 
I'll end up removing and replacing aprox. 23 gallons of old tankwater today ;)

Gary is that the total volume of water change you do on your system weekly or just what will be replaced today?

How many gallons is your whole system? Tank and sump minus live rock?
 
23 gallons is what I remove/replace in one water change.
I usually do this twice weekly.

I'm running aprox. 255 total gallons of water in my system right now.
 
So your changing about 50 gallons a week out of your system. I'm just trying to understand this so it might not come out right in my wording. But doing this twice a week instead of once doesn't get as much old water out does it? Just wondering what the reasoning here is. I'm thinking along the lines of economical and getting more out of the fresh batch of salt water. Did any of that make sense?
 
sure it makes sense, Dave.

I've done large water changes in the past. One 50 gallon exchange is more efficient at removing old tank water than two 25 gallon changes UNTIL you start accounting for the use of LaCl2 during each water change.

One of the main goals of my water changes is to export phosphates.
 
Sorry for all the questions but its how I learn....

You stated above "It's the dosing of Lanthanum chloride that will have a huge impact on PO4 levels as it acts as a flocculent."

Do you run a reactor for Phos or is this dosing the way you combat PO4 in your system? Or do you use both a reactor and this dosing method during your water changes together?
 
Gary, how do you manage to keep your return pump from pushing a ton of microbubbles into the display during your wet-skimming water changes? Im almost positive that this type of system wouldn't be possible in my system with a tradtional 3 section sump.
 
Sorry for all the questions but its how I learn....

You stated above "It's the dosing of Lanthanum chloride that will have a huge impact on PO4 levels as it acts as a flocculent."

Do you run a reactor for Phos or is this dosing the way you combat PO4 in your system? Or do you use both a reactor and this dosing method during your water changes together?
a sorry isn't necessary- all questions welcome in this thread!
I haven't used GFO (or any other PO4 adsorbers) since I started using LaCl2.
Each of my LaCl2 treatments (coupled with a water change) effectively cuts PO4 levels in my aquarium in half.
 
Gary, how do you manage to keep your return pump from pushing a ton of microbubbles into the display during your wet-skimming water changes? Im almost positive that this type of system wouldn't be possible in my system with a tradtional 3 section sump.
the two baffles in my sump prevent microbubbles from reaching the main pump intake UNTIL the very last moment when water removal is complete. Microbubbles spewing out the water returns (upstairs in the display) signals that it's time to drop the skimmer level and pump new saltwater into the system.
 
What size sump do you have Gary? After about 7 or sale gallons in my 75 gallon sump(45 gallons or so of actual water volume) my system starts spewing them into the display.
 
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