a Whacked 40B adventure

Whacked

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DISCLAIMER:
I HEREBY AND HENCEFORTH RESERVE THE RIGHT TO TAKE MY SWEET TIME IN THIS BUILD.

Those looking for Reef Porn, well think of it as foreplay :D

(after all, trying to juggle work and driving to Sac for school, time is a precious commodity)

Anyhow, I actually managed to make 'some' progress in the build. Got most of the stand frame done. Still a loooong ways to go.
This upcoming weekend I'll be picking up more lumber. I really need to get it going as every time I open up the ACAD file, I make changes to the design.

The kitchen in my nano sized apartment all cluttered up
DSCN1390.jpg


I picked up those 3 tanks off craigslist awhile ago. I have one of the 15g in use as a FW QT/grow-out. I'll be using the 30g as a sump/fuge. I'm sure I'll find a use for that second 15g :)

This 20H will be replaced with the 40B. it will go in that spot so moving things around will be interesting.
DSCN1372.jpg

I never use that window. It opens up into a 'breezeway' which is full of AC units and they are noisy as heck plus amplified by the buildings. Don't get any sunlight either since the next apartment unit is like 6ft away.

Oh yea, I have a couple zoa colonies that were overrun with algae so I decided to pull some and put on a plug. Had some bug run out and crawl up my arm. pretty much freaked me. Dont know what the algae type was, its stiff like a toothbrush and was a PITA to pull off.

Anyways, stuff I have planned

Quiet One 3000 for a return
Aquahub ATO system w/ tom aquatic aqua lifter pump
I'll be sticking with the Koralia's for additional flow.
For lighting it all up, i'm looking at picking this up
Icecap T5
with these bulbs
ATI Blue+
ATI Aquablue Special
KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Blue+

OK, thats it for now. I'll do my best to keep this updated as I go along.
 
I came across this site for diamond hole saws.
http://www.richontools.com/catalog/c89_p1.html
even with shipping, much cheaper than anything I came across.

Originally I was going to do a herbie style overflow with 1" drains.
Now i'm considering the 700gph 1.5" drain kit from www.glass-holes.com
Less real estate used and I wont have to fabricate some sort of overflow box. I've messed with acrylic before and with the limited tools I have, cutting the overflow teeth wasnt something I really wanted to do.

Since the Quietone 3000 will provide around 510gph back to the display, I should be OK with the GH drain system. *I hope*

I also realized that I completely forgot how/where i'm going to power everything. Ultimately a controller will take care of things but that aint gonna happen anytime soon.
Think i'll have to look into a DJ powerstrip or something similar.

Oh, one more thing.
Anyone know where I can pick up the black pond/fountain foam at? I went to both Lowes and they were a bust. The yellow great stuff foam was on sale but its not UV resistant.
 
I picked my DJ powerstrips up online but if your in a rush I've been told that Guitar Center sells them..
 
Take your time my friend...Not only does it help give your mind to make 100 different plan/design changes, but it teaches you not to freak out so much on the little stuff LOL

I think you are going in the right direction and sounds like you did your homework. I am using a QuietOne 3000 as the return pump on my 75g and am actually tee-ing it off to feed my fuge. I am very happy with it since I wanted a power flow pump in the sump for a slower turnover rate and make up for it with two 1000gph Seio Props in the DT for flow. Found it is very quiet, is not overpriced and draws much less power than others like Mags.

I also did the ATO Kit from Aquahub with the Aqualifter and am very happy with it. My only suggestion is scrap the Mold-a-holder in favor of acrylic. The Mold-a-holder is OK, but is kind flimsy and you get the diving board effect and your switches move with the water. I took some scrap 1/4" acrylic about 2-3 inches wide and made two brackets by cutting off smaller strips and gluing it all together with Weld-on 4. I made another small strip as the lip and a 3-4" piece to come off the back for support. Very clean and VERY sturdy. Plan on adding a nylon thumb screw to adjust the bracket so it doesn't lean back into the wall.

Here's my writeup on the unit on my blog:

AquaHub DIY Top Off Kit
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14362246#post14362246 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bamm Bamm
I picked my DJ powerstrips up online but if your in a rush I've been told that Guitar Center sells them..
I heard that too. I'm definately not in a rush.
I dont go to Modesto very often but the Sac location is near my classes. Someday if I bail from work early I'll make a detour.
I just looked on musiciansfriend.com (GC's website) and didnt see anything. Didnt look to hard tho.

Gina:
Thanks for the link. I forgot about grainger's.
I also read that walmart *shudders* may have some. some day when I feel brave I might check it out.

Brian:
Yea, slow is the way to go. I've been planning this for 5 months? now. seems like forever. Its just feels good to be actually doing something rather than a dream with stuff on paper.
Good to know about that mold-a-holder. I have some scrap acrylic pieces lying around that I can mangle into a holder. Still have some weld-on 4 and 16 somewhere,...
Tap plastics sells 7"x10" scrap pieces for $0.75/ea so if what I have wont work, getting more is cheap.
Was thinking of using a piece of acrylic to keep water splash from hitting my bulbs/reflectors and would probably go to Tap's for that. will be more expensive than the extruded stuff at Lowes, will have to wait and see what my build funds are at that time.
 
I went to Tap for one for min...I'm definitely a cheap bastard so i got a thin piece cut to size and used 1/4" square rod from there (I think under $2 for a 6 or 8 ft length) to make it more rigid. Still used a zip tie in the middle of my T5 unit :)

Nice thing about Tap is you can get a piece cut and they don't charge you more for getting the exact size you need like having to buy a whole sheet somewhere else.
 
Well, made a bit more progress. Basically put the stand legs together. Dont have pics yet.
Dunno how much I can do this comming weekend, playing catchup on my homework and looks like I'll have to work late Sun night for a stormwater sampling event.

Anyhow, I notice that a lot of people use 1/2" or larger plywood for their canopies. Is there a reason for that?
I was going to frame my canopy with 1x2. I haven't decided on what to skin it with. 1/2" plywood would make it surdy but its mostly asthetics and not structural. why wouldnt 1/4" plywood work? too susceptible to warping from heat/moisture?
 
1/4" warps/bows easily. Try 3/8".


If you haven't worked out your overflows yet I highly recommend the Herbie with Durso backup. My Herbie is still "temp'd in"... but man it made the tank soo much quieter.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14445406#post14445406 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mothra
1/4" warps/bows easily. Try 3/8".


If you haven't worked out your overflows yet I highly recommend the Herbie with Durso backup. My Herbie is still "temp'd in"... but man it made the tank soo much quieter.

I totally I agree I wish I could do this on mine but there barely room for one durso in it..and it's a bit noisy for my taste
 
K, figured the 1/4" would be warp or bend. I'll get something thicker.

I dont mind a little noise. In fact, my FW tank I never top off from evap. Only time its totally full is just after a WC. With the HOB filter I get a waterfall sound. I kinda like the sound, its soothing a bit and doesnt bother me even tho that tank is like 5' from my bed.

Awhile back I sent a email to the peeps at glass-holes. They recommended their 700gph system, a 1.5" drain durso-ish. something I like is the overflow box is very small, not taking up much room at all. They do have a video of their system (think its the Dart system) so you can get a idea how loud it is. I'll have to take another listen to it.

no new pics yet. my kitchen is a disaster area. I am supposed to go out and do some stormwater sampling with this upcoming rainstorm. I cant remember what % needed for us to mobilize. But it looks like 80% rain chance at 3am. so I may be up real early. Just waiting for a phone call, its her decision to make to get everyone ready.
 
found the GH vid, it wasnt at their site
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vD9CPqhtY88
it doesnt sound that loud, the return pump is noisy tho.

I'm going to have to make a decison real soon. I think I'll stop by Tap eitehr before or after next weeks meeting.

Which brings me to another question. With the teeth in a overflow box, just how important is a strainer on the drain?
 
I've never used strainers inside my overflows, but I have had a few snails and fish find their way into the sump.
 
Thanks Jacob. That means the overflow box can be thinner.

I've been really busy lately, havent had much time to do anything.
I did get some quotes for some acrylic at Tap's before the meeting today.

I really need to make some decisions real soon. Do I want to paint the stand? what color? stain it? laminate? Oak is pretty dang expensive and my build budget took a hit recently. On the plus side, I have some stain left over from a previous stand build (my 20g FW stand). So, I wouldnt have to buy primer and paint, just more expensive panels and a sealant. I'll have to browse thru Lowes and see what catches my eye.

Since the side openings are 10"x28" do I really want to put a door there? I narrowed the depth of the stand from my original design as I decided it would stick out too far. So, since its not so deep anymore, access to the sump isnt as much of a stretch (I decided against putting the sump on a sliding drawer rollers, would eat up space and drive the cost up more). Think I just convinced myself no side doors. Can give me extra mounting space for power strips etc.

This last week I had some time at work so I did a quick sketch so you all can get a idea what I have in mind. First up is the sump, my stupid cheap $3 30g craigslist tank. Tap quoted me $34-38 for the baffles. the $38 is if I want to get the 'fuge baffle in black instead of clear. I figure the black would block light from the rest of the sump and hopefully reduce any coraline growth. I could just scuff it up and spray on some Krylon Fusion paint, I'll be picking some up anyhow.

Heres the sump
Sump.jpg


The setup
40B_Front.jpg


all opened up
40B_Open.jpg


I started doing the moulding but the bottom was such a PITA I stopped. I'll trim up the top of the stand and do something with the top/bottom of the canopy.

Guess I better get now. I have to do more stormwater sampling in the early morning. Nothing like visiting Stocktons pump stations and sloughs and collecting nasty water run off.
 
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