? about Halichoeres wrasses in QT

[RedStangGA]

So I got a biocellatus and chrysus in fro LA yesterday. Floated them in my prepared QT fro ~20 minutes, opened one bag to make sure salinity was at least really close, and then put them in.

The biocellatus seemed more inclined to lay on his side, occasionally move around. Ignored food other than a bite or two as far as I can tell. About 90-120 minutes later he buried himself somewhere and haven't seen him since.

The chrysus seemed happy. Cruised around exploring. Ate nutramar ova like a champ. Stayed out and about for about 150 minutes before burying himself and haven't seen him since.

Now I know not to freak out when they bury themselves to sleep and that they may stay buried for an extended period of time.

What I didn't think about was feeding. Should I put any food in even if I don't see them? I want to make sure they eat well of course but don't want to dirty up the water more than necessary.

QT is a 29gal biocube. I have a skimmer running in the back without a cup to help oxygenate the water, a MJ900 for the return pointed up, and a koralia nano in the display portion pointed up as well.

TIA for any advice. For now, I'm trying to just be patient. I'll be home for the next 3.5-4 weeks so I'm checking on the tank every hour or so.

Oh, tank is in the basement. I have lights on but a towel drooped over most of the tank to only allow some light rather than bright light and there is no foot traffic past it either.

 

[eatbreakfast]

I would suggest having the lights on as they normally would be. Halichoeres are shallower water fish so light wont bother them, but instead will help them get on the proper sleep schedule.

They can stay buried for an extended period of time, but if they are about to die they usually unbury and lie on their side.

They also may be coming out at "off" times as well.

I wouldnt feed until you see them swimming around.

 

[RedStangGA]

I would suggest having the lights on as they normally would be. Halichoeres are shallower water fish so light wont bother them, but instead will help them get on the proper sleep schedule.

They can stay buried for an extended period of time, but if they are about to die they usually unbury and lie on their side.

They also may be coming out at "off" times as well.

I wouldnt feed until you see them swimming around.

Thanks for the response. And good to know that if they feel that "bad" that they'd likely come out of the sand first.

The chrysus did come out around 5pm yesterday and stayed out until I went to bed at ~10:30pm. Neither was out when I went down to check this morning. I'm guessing they're still on their original time zone. I'll turn the lights on at noon and start trying to get them slowly on my light schedule that they'll be on in the DT.

 

[RedStangGA]

Well, moot point as they're both out and eating ova as I type this...

 

[RedStangGA]

Asking for more opinions. The Chrysus has come out daily. The biocellatus only once out of 5 days. That was the second full day of QT.

Should I be concerned or is the biocellatus still just trying to find it's happy place? I suppose it is possible it comes out between the hours of 11pm and about 8am when I haven't typically checked on them. But the one day it did come out was a little after noon and it went back into the sand around 6pm.

I'm mainly wondering at what point do I search for a body and claim my 14-day guarantee? I'm willing to give it time but honestly if I don't see it by next weekend I'm inclined to believe it didn't make it and is just rotting in the sand...

On the bright side, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates haven't spiked yet.

 

[evolved]

I'd wait until day 14 at worst. Further, you could probably call when approaching day 14 and they may consider extending the 14 day guarantee once you've explained the situation.

Digging one up that's hiding only induces more stress, which hinders your chance of success.

 

[RedStangGA]

I'd wait until day 14 at worst. Further, you could probably call when approaching day 14 and they may consider extending the 14 day guarantee once you've explained the situation.

Digging one up that's hiding only induces more stress, which hinders your chance of success.

Thanks, and I'll consider doing that. Especially as the other halichoeres is doing just fine in the same tank. Note to myself though. Next time I QT a sand dwelling wrasse I'm doing a plastic bowl of sand rather than the whole tank.

 

[rjallen]

Your biocellatus may be afraid oof your other halichoeres. Perhaps you can partition the tank. Seen this before.

 

[RedStangGA]

Your biocellatus may be afraid oof your other halichoeres. Perhaps you can partition the tank. Seen this before.

I have wondered about that. There have been two times that they've been out together. Initial entry into the QT tank and the 2nd full day of quarantine. The bio is at least twice as large as the chrysus. And they ignored each other the entire time with the one exception being the chrysus deferred to the bio at feed time by never approaching food that the bio was near.

I'll keep watching though.

 

[RedStangGA]

Well, just went down to check the QT and bio was dead on the sand...

 

[Anim8me2]

One quick question. You mentioned matching temp and checking salinity of the bag when it arrived. Did you drip or do larger water swaps?
I know some people don't worry about it, but PH differences are a bigger danger than temperatures,

 

[RedStangGA]

One quick question. You mentioned matching temp and checking salinity of the bag when it arrived. Did you drip or do larger water swaps?
I know some people don't worry about it, but PH differences are a bigger danger than temperatures,

Did separate drips into each bag for about an hour. I don't like to go much longer than that because ammonia in the shipping bag can shoot up quickly once it's opened.

Honestly it's the first time I've done that long of a drip on new fish. Usually all I do is match salinity and temp but heard that wrasses were more delicate.

 

[Anim8me2]

That was why I asked. An hour should be fine but I have run in to people who think that temp and salinity is all you need to worry about. Makes me wanna smack em

 

[Nina51]

you can smack me because that's all i have done with all of the additions to my tank. they arrive, usually from LA/DD, float 15 minutes, match salinity and into the qt they go. i've done this with everything from a kole tang to 5 different wrasses. 100% success.

OP, it's possible that the long drip acclimation is what did your fish in. sorry for the loss. hope the other one does better for you!

 

[RedStangGA]

you can smack me because that's all i have done with all of the additions to my tank. they arrive, usually from LA/DD, float 15 minutes, match salinity and into the qt they go. i've done this with everything from a kole tang to 5 different wrasses. 100% success.

OP, it's possible that the long drip acclimation is what did your fish in. sorry for the loss. hope the other one does better for you!

It's a damned if you do damned if you don't situation for sure. I've heard arguments for each way. This was my first internet fish order and decided to follow LA's guidelines. Some people swear by each method and I'm not aware of any truly scientific study done to determine which way is best.

Honestly, I don't think the acclimation period mattered one way or the other. He looked in rough shape to begin with while the other halichoeres seemed happy from the start. I wonder of the smaller/younger guys are somehow more resilient or "adaptable" to change then fish that were older when caught?

Just sucks. I love fish and do my best to give them a better life, or at least safer, than they could have had in the ocean. If there was one thing I'd love to see our hobby focus on it would be to increase the success rate of fish that are wild caught. A very close second would be to expand captive breeding to the majority of the fish in the aquarium trade. Anyhow, off my little soap box!

 

[rjallen]

I'm so sorry for your loss. I personally think drip acclimatization is a little over rated. Very important for inverts. Not so much for fish. I match pH after floating for temp. I adjust salinity of QT BEFORE shipment arrives. When I first open a bag after floating, I add one drop of Prime as amonnia can rapidly form as the oxygen escapes the bag. I believe much fish death in the 1st 24 48 hrs. is caused by amonnia burns to gills and other internal.organs.
Good luck
RJ