Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
slavearm
New member
These guys are freaking brilliant. It will cost me about $80 to build a similar jig for my tablesaw, but may very well be worth it at this point.
http://www.jcrocket.com/tubesaw.shtml#rollers
I may just try the trick they used by inserting the wood block into the tube and then screwing a pan head screw into the block. I will post pics if I build the jig. I plan on making all kinds of acrylic crap so, it wont hurt to have good jigs.
Only problem I have with the "new fence" is that the ends are not really even close to square at this point.
http://www.jcrocket.com/tubesaw.shtml#rollers
I may just try the trick they used by inserting the wood block into the tube and then screwing a pan head screw into the block. I will post pics if I build the jig. I plan on making all kinds of acrylic crap so, it wont hurt to have good jigs.
Only problem I have with the "new fence" is that the ends are not really even close to square at this point.
Doesn't matter as long as the fence is perpendicular to the tablesaw. I'm assuming you are rotating the tube on a miter gauge. If this is the case, the part of the tube that is most out of square will be the only part of the tube hitting the fence. Since this will be a constant, the tube will rotate true. On a short fence, the tube doesn't ride true against the fence. Now it would.
HTH,
James
HTH,
James
slavearm
New member
Quick question. I was reading my WO#40 directions today, and it mentioned I should anneal the acrylic before using the 40 to glue cut pieces together to avoid crazing. I am a little concerned, because I am using the 40 to adhere the pvc unions/pipe combo to the body of a 12"OD 1/4" tube through holes cut with a forstener bit. Unfortunately the tube is extruded from futureplast in Canada. So am I rightfully concerned about crazing using the 40 to bond these pieces? Would 4052 be a better option?
Gracias.
Gracias.
Eric,
good job and no - I haven't forgotten
Slavearm,
Shouldn't make any difference if it was 40 or 4052. Virtually *every* bonding method mentions annealing prior to bonding.
12" x 1/4" wall extruded tube???? sure about that? possible I suppose but unlikely IME. If you have a scrap piece of tube, try the 40 on it to see how it does. I'll be doing some 42 tomorrow so maybe I'll try it on a smallish chunk of tube to see what happens.
de nada
James
good job and no - I haven't forgotten
Slavearm,
Shouldn't make any difference if it was 40 or 4052. Virtually *every* bonding method mentions annealing prior to bonding.
12" x 1/4" wall extruded tube???? sure about that? possible I suppose but unlikely IME. If you have a scrap piece of tube, try the 40 on it to see how it does. I'll be doing some 42 tomorrow so maybe I'll try it on a smallish chunk of tube to see what happens.
de nada
James
slavearm
New member
Wow... that second Chamber looks awesome Eric! I can see the pic now it didn't show up earlier.
James,
Futureplast makes the tubing up to 24" in extruded from what the vendor told me. He also said that Futureplast was about the only company making extruded in that size or anything even close. I really wish it was cast, and hope that it is. Let me know if you get the chance to try it. The only pieces I have of the larger tube are all at least 15" long, so not much room to play with there. I am hoping that using the forstener bit and going real easy and slow, I wont have stressed the acrylic too much.
James,
Futureplast makes the tubing up to 24" in extruded from what the vendor told me. He also said that Futureplast was about the only company making extruded in that size or anything even close. I really wish it was cast, and hope that it is. Let me know if you get the chance to try it. The only pieces I have of the larger tube are all at least 15" long, so not much room to play with there. I am hoping that using the forstener bit and going real easy and slow, I wont have stressed the acrylic too much.
Dwarf Seahorses
New member
Dumb question but here it goes:
Does a router only make holes and such for overflows or does it actually cut the 4x8 sheets of acrylic into the pane size you want?
Does a router only make holes and such for overflows or does it actually cut the 4x8 sheets of acrylic into the pane size you want?
LuisC
Premium Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9340793#post9340793 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Acrylics
Welcome to Part III
Hiya Marc,
Coupla things:
If you had to lift the vertical piece to get the wires/pins in there, then you should release the clamps and let the vertical piece settle. Do not push down or "mash" the vertical piece to get ooze, you end up pushing the solvent out many times.
If you did not lift the vertical piece, just pushed down on the horizontal piece to get the wires/pins in, just let it be.
As you had guessed, let the weight of the panel do any pushing. You may have to shim, however, between the horizontal piece and the foam at times to make up for excess warpage in the horizontal piece.
I can't tell what kind of acrylic you have there (brand name) so can't tell if you joints are due *just* to the above or of the acrylic might have issues as well. Some brands of acrylic simply glue badly. This is why I only recommend Polycast, Acrylite GP, and Plexi-Glas G/GM
HTH?
Is acrylic FF lyte any good?
James
RokleM
Premium Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9991660#post9991660 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Acrylics
Eric,
good job and no - I haven't forgotten
no problem :thumbsup:
I believe most people will get rough cut from an acrylic shop and/or rough cut it with a tablesaw. You then can use the router to rip a very small amount off of the acrylic edge to make it super smooth and straight.
Dwarf Seahorses
New member
Oh I see now, thank you. But a router does make holes for overflows and such, right?
RokleM
Premium Member
On the lid of the calcium chamber I built (picture up a few posts), I drilled a hole slightly bigger than the compression fitting. At that point, I tightened the nut on both sides and actually used Weld-On 40 and put a thick layer on the threads and nut on the "inside" of the reactor.
I have a situation that I'd like to try to install the male side of a PVC union/tube in the lid. This will be a slightly higher pressure system. Will Weld-On 40 properly bind to the PVC and acrylic, or should I use another adhesive like an epoxy?
I have a situation that I'd like to try to install the male side of a PVC union/tube in the lid. This will be a slightly higher pressure system. Will Weld-On 40 properly bind to the PVC and acrylic, or should I use another adhesive like an epoxy?
