Some folks just glue a sawcut edge. While this works, not the best method for edge prep. I'd advise routing the edge or at least running the piece through a jointer to prep the edge. If these are not in the cards, maybe pay a local fabricator a coupla bux to cut/prep the edges for you. For a small tank, shouldn't take the guy longer than 15-20 minutes to do this so should not cost too much if you have a reasonable guy around. A decent woodworker should have these tools around as well. Edges should be very smooth for gluing, sanding can work but most times - folks end up rounding the edges which isn't good either, edges should be flat, straight, and smooth.
You don't need a $150 blade, a laminate cutting blade will suffice. Router bits are really one of those things that "you get what you pay for", good bits cost good money, and good bits do a better job, generally speaking. I wish all mu router bits only cost $30 each, if you do get into this as a hobby - be prepared to spend $60-80 for a good router bit. Worth every penny too
Take a look at http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=390652 it shows a good method for prepping the edges using a router table. Also maybe do a search for "acrylic" & "edge prep" here on RC for this. IMO, some of the threads here on RC are the best available on the net, without question.
Do not polish the edges prior to gluing, this is just asking for a crazing problem. If you are looking to flame polish the edges, do so *only* after all work is done, trimmed, and the tank is fully cured for several days - else you may fry the joints. Propane is a dirty gas and without a supplemental oxygen tank - doesn't burn that hot so may take a bit of practice. FWIW I'd advise sanding & buffing over flame polishing as the propensity to craze is much higher but using the flame is kinda the industry norm.
Practice on good material; since you will be gluing good material on your tank, practice with what you are actually going to use. There is a vast difference between good material and cheap, garbage material. Practicing with the cheap stuff will not properly prepare you for using good material - different world IMO.
HTH,
James
You don't need a $150 blade, a laminate cutting blade will suffice. Router bits are really one of those things that "you get what you pay for", good bits cost good money, and good bits do a better job, generally speaking. I wish all mu router bits only cost $30 each, if you do get into this as a hobby - be prepared to spend $60-80 for a good router bit. Worth every penny too
Take a look at http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=390652 it shows a good method for prepping the edges using a router table. Also maybe do a search for "acrylic" & "edge prep" here on RC for this. IMO, some of the threads here on RC are the best available on the net, without question.
Do not polish the edges prior to gluing, this is just asking for a crazing problem. If you are looking to flame polish the edges, do so *only* after all work is done, trimmed, and the tank is fully cured for several days - else you may fry the joints. Propane is a dirty gas and without a supplemental oxygen tank - doesn't burn that hot so may take a bit of practice. FWIW I'd advise sanding & buffing over flame polishing as the propensity to craze is much higher but using the flame is kinda the industry norm.
Practice on good material; since you will be gluing good material on your tank, practice with what you are actually going to use. There is a vast difference between good material and cheap, garbage material. Practicing with the cheap stuff will not properly prepare you for using good material - different world IMO.
HTH,
James
