Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Don't set it out in the sun. UV rays will make it brittle. Never set an acrylic tank in the sun unless you don't want to use it anymore 
Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Don't set it out in the sun. UV rays will make it brittle. Never set an acrylic tank in the sun unless you don't want to use it anymore
Not quite what I meant....meant to put it outside in my other garage where it gets quite toasty in the summer from the summer sun/heat. It's an icebox out there right now. :lol2:
thejuggernaut
Member
Have been reading through the thread and have seen people saying to use both an upcut or downcut spiral router bit. Am planning on getting a whiteside 1/2" spiral bit but don't know if I should get upcut or downcut. Which one is better in which application and why?
Regards,
Taylor
Regards,
Taylor
TriNewbie24
Member
are you shimming the edges? I had the same issues, just finally shimmed this time around and literally had perfect seams, only had a few bubbles at the ends, but once again, if I shimmed those parts might have solved that issue as well. I believe they have to do with the piece not sitting fully flush, then as the solvent starts to evaporate it takes in air and creates the air bubbles. Could probably use the non adhesive side of cellophane around the joint to see if that prevents them also. That is per direction from the Tech team at Cyro
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
IMO you always want upcut. 1) holds piece to table/router instead of pushing it away 2) you need chips to clear away from the bearing (on a flush trim bit) or away from the work area. Only use spiral bits when flush trimming so the only one you want, ever, for acrylic work, is upcut
I would agree that proper technique such as bonding on top of MDF with camper shell foam and pinning and shimming all around will virtually eliminate this, but temp and humidity is also a factor. If you bond and it's too cold or if the temp is OK and then it drops drastically after you set the joint, this will happen, depending on your solvent mix. had a buddy using good technique but after he set the joint his heater quit and he wasn't there, dropped to 40F and joints went to junk.
Cleaning and blowing out the joint might be the cause, as might be a dusty environment and some static action.
I don't believe there is an adhesive vs non-adhesive side to cellophane. But I can't say I ever bothered to ask. Interesting solution though. That would flush trim off I suppose
overflowin
New member
floyd, do you recommend wiping surfaces with denatured alcohol prior to cementing the joints?
EDIT: never mind. i used the search and found that you do. i will be quiet now.
EDIT: never mind. i used the search and found that you do. i will be quiet now.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
I wouldn't use 40 unless you know what you're doing. IMO you don't need 40 for that size tank. You can solvent weld up to 2" acrylic.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
You can use straight MC, nothing wrong with that. Cutting in AA is just a way to make the solvent flow better. Straight MC tends to 'jump' around and could result in some bubbles
So I am working with a 120g with C2C overflow. The tank is over 7 years old but I've noticed on the one side the panel is warped from the front to the back. This is 1/4 inch and was a custom build. I've filled it up and it held water for a full 24 hours. Is there any concern that the panel could fail over time? There are no cracks and the seams are solid. Is this just normal deflection? Any concerns with putting a canopy on the tank? Here's a picture that you can see that shows the warping. It's a few inches down from the top.
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Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
I'm not sure I see the warping you are talking about. I see a horizontal 'fuzzy' line, which looks like it coincides with the waterline mandated by the weir.
First off, is the material really 1/4"? Acrylic is usually metric, so 1/4" is actually 0.236, and 3/8" is more like 0.354, 1/2" is 0.472, etc, unless it's polycast (american made) and then it's spot on. 1/4" for a 120g would be too thin by just about any standard. This one looks like 3/8" (0.354) material to me.
A few more overall tank pics might be helpful. Used tanks are kind of a gamble IMO because acrylic will 'settle' into the stand it is placed on to an extent, and if you then tank that tank and put it on a different stand, it might have to re-settle (which causes stress). Many times this is not a problem, but if the tank is underbuilt or poorly manufactured, or placed on an improper stand now or in the past) then issues could become "magnified".
First off, is the material really 1/4"? Acrylic is usually metric, so 1/4" is actually 0.236, and 3/8" is more like 0.354, 1/2" is 0.472, etc, unless it's polycast (american made) and then it's spot on. 1/4" for a 120g would be too thin by just about any standard. This one looks like 3/8" (0.354) material to me.
A few more overall tank pics might be helpful. Used tanks are kind of a gamble IMO because acrylic will 'settle' into the stand it is placed on to an extent, and if you then tank that tank and put it on a different stand, it might have to re-settle (which causes stress). Many times this is not a problem, but if the tank is underbuilt or poorly manufactured, or placed on an improper stand now or in the past) then issues could become "magnified".
The fuzzy like you are referring too is the warp. It actually sits lower the the weir and when you run your hand down from top to bottom you can feel the direction change and the "bump" in the side wall. You are probably right on the thickness. I'm new to the hobby and at times I get some of my terminology wrong. But I'll try and post more pictures tonight.
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