Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

Yeah I should have googled that - I bought one of those, tried it once, and returned it promptly. It is, IMO, completely ineffective for acrylic work.

When I clamp down my fence, I use a c-clamp at the far end and crank it down tight. Then I set the piece to route in place (router off) along the fence and rotate the bit so that it is at it's closest point to the material.

Then I slide the fence/piece toward the bit (C Clamp acts as a pivot point) until they touch. I then crank down on the c-clamp on the near side, remove the piece, fire up router, and make my passes. I then loosen the near clamp, and move the fence just a hair, clamp it down, and make the next pass. With some practice, you can make adjustments that are so fine that you barely hear it cutting and see only fine dust flying away from the bit.

That emersen thing was a total PITA because if I wanted to adjust it only a hair, that was next to impossible, the second you release the clamp and try to nudge it, it moves too far, and now you have totally lost your reference point to the last trim cut. Plus, it won't clamp across the table in any orientation other than perfectly square with the ends of the table. Useless. Maybe it is good for woodworking.

With the two c-clamp method and a decent ($35) metal level, I could get far more accuracy. You are not restricted to one direction with the 2-clamp method, I can just throw that Black Mamba on the table, clamp one side, swing it into position, clamp the other side, and route away. It just doesn't get any simpler.

The emersen thing flexed on me when I was not expecting it to and made for junk cuts.
 
I use 25 gauge picture hanger wire from Home Depot. Cut abut a 4-6" piece, fold over an twist up one end to make a handle, and then on the other end (that gets inserted) use a good sharp wire cutters and make a clean cut. The cutter that comes on the spool leaves a jagged cut and that will make the pin "grab" in the joint when you try to pull it out.
 
Optix is extruded, I would not use it for a display tank. Also I personally wouldn't use extruded for anything but a sump or maybe a cheap frag tank, and definitely not something 24" tall but that's me.
 
Thanks.
With a good Cast Acrylic, would a 1/4'' thick acrylic be ok for a 12x12 footprint and 24'' tall? It will also have euro bracing
 
I'm looking to build a 5 gal or so ATO tank - so 7 gallons is 1 square foot and I have a sheet of 1/4" Chemcast (I know folks don't like it for display tanks - my sump will be small).

Obviously I'd like to use my sheet - so what are my limitations on dimensions here? I'm going to have it enclosed with a lid on top of a full sheet euro on top with access port for pump/replishment.
 
Chemcast had problems in the past with tanks falling apart, not much word on them since them but I've seen it used on tanks, like the 400G bowfront on LA Fishguys so it's probably Ok for an ATO.

For dims, it's mainly height, but if you are enclosing the top and just having access holes, that will make it a bit stronger. I guess the question is, how tall do you want it to be?

12x12x12 would not be a problem I wouldn't think. Build it, fill it, let it sit for a week...you'll find out! :)
 
Thanks, Floyd.

In reading the acrylics construction manual I've noticed that it says to bevel the INSIDE of the joint @5 degrees or so. Not a problem if you run the final cut on a jointer (or if you have an uber table saw blade, I would think).

I've noticed that few people do this in constructing tanks. Wonder how many seam failures are a result of this, and how much stronger the joinery would be?
 
No - that is only for using weld-on #40. This is usually for a large tank, thick material, and you have to leave a space between the material for the 40 to fill. IMO an advanced technique only to be used for large tanks built by a professional with LOTS of practice.

I've built 120g tanks 30+" tall out of 3/4" using solvent. You need a 100% flush fit for solvent. You can solvent weld up to 2" thick material, no problem.
 
Chemcast had problems in the past with tanks falling apart, not much word on them since them but I've seen it used on tanks, like the 400G bowfront on LA Fishguys so it's probably Ok for an ATO.

For dims, it's mainly height, but if you are enclosing the top and just having access holes, that will make it a bit stronger. I guess the question is, how tall do you want it to be?

12x12x12 would not be a problem I wouldn't think. Build it, fill it, let it sit for a week...you'll find out! :)

Really, I was getting a quote on some of that stuff from a local dealer to make a few things. I know Synergy Reef uses it allot, at least that is what I saw on the paper backing in allot of their construction photos. I does seem a little cheaper then plex G. Local guys wanted $165 for a 1/4" sheet at 50"X99 for plex G."

LOL three guess for Turbo to figure out what I'm wanting to make! I bet you'll only need one!
 
I have used chemcast in the past. It's a quality control issue. There are some sheets that appear to solvent weld well and some are just unworkable. I think you can use tons of sheets of chemcast for reactors, frag racks, and small atos and sumps and you probably won't see a problem. However, if you make enough display tanks with chemcast, you might run into some trouble down the line.
 
Guess: scrubber

I'll have to ask Synergy about that next time I talk to them, which should've thus coming week

Dattack: how long ago in the past?
 
I have seen chemcast tanks built 15 years ago without problems. I tried to work with some chemcast 1/2" a few years ago and it holds up but the solvent weld doesn't seem as cleaned as the plexiglas or spartech brand. I have given up on acrylite gp because it was the worst for me in terms of getting a consistent bubbleless seam.
Reefsynergy does use chemcast from the photos of their work. Not sure how good chemcast is in the last two years.
 
Well - got a sheet of Chemcast and gonna start tweaking on a 16x22x18 high (or so) sump with some baffles. If it grenades I'll let you guys know.
 
I have a 75g tank with a 6" crack in the bottom. acrylic is 1/2", and I was wondering how thick does the patch piece have to be? I figured I'd drill a hole at either end of the crack to 'terminate' then weld a flat piece on top of it.
 
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