Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

id use 3/8"


So i just had my first experience with wo #40. And let me tell you, it was a real pita to deal with. I used the recommended syringe with 65 gauge opening(i think thats it?) And could barley get it out. I got 20 minutes into it, barley had anything glued and it turned about 300 degrees and got hard as a rock. Reminds me alot of working with fiberglass.
I also managed to cover myself, and everything around me in it.

But damn those seams look good!

Is there a better method to applying this stuff?
 
Bchbum,
As RokieM points out, just use a syringe with no needle. I keep various sized syringes around and use the one appropriate to the application and amount of 40/42 needed.

RokieM,
3/8" would be better IMO and doesn't cost *that* much more, think of it as a one-time insurance payment :)

James
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9772454#post9772454 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Acrylics
3/8" would be better IMO and doesn't cost *that* much more, think of it as a one-time insurance payment :)

For you maybe, the prices I've seen are almost double ;) However, it's likely the direction I'll go anyway.

Did this one recently... 1/4 extruded, 10x10x20. It's my replacement QT frag tank. All of edges are not as perfect as the one below, but I had a number that came out very bubble free.

I haven't attempted any corner routing/rounding or polishing yet.

04.17.2007-1.jpg


04.17.2007-2.jpg
 
I got a acrylic stand from a friend for free. I have a 120 gallon glass tank 4x2x2 and the new stand is 6 foot long and 2 foot wide and 3 feet tall. Its out side panels are made of 1/4" acrylic and it has 4 1/2" thick 3" wide acrylic frames that are inside running from top to bottom . Its made to hold a 180 and my tank is a 120 but my tank is shorter and will only sit on 2 frames in the middle and miss the other 2 on the ends by 6 inches. I was thinking of running a 1/2" acrylic piece from the frame that the tank will fit on and running it sideways on the edge to the other frame.

This makes sence im my head but i can take a pic if you dont understand me. My main question would be can a stand with 1/4" thick side pannels and 4 1/2" thick frames hold a 120 gallon tank or was this guy crazy? The frame runs front to back and down both the front and back walls but not the bottom the bottom is just glued to 1/4" acrylic. The stand is custom and there is no way to talk to the guy that made it if any thing brakes or any thing would you use it?
 
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Acrylics

for my LFS I will be having 3 coral tank. 48" x 24" x 12" high. thats about 60g. What acrylic should I use. 1/4" with 2" euro all around and 2" center brace. or 1/2" for the walls?

will 1/4" be strong enough??
 
You would be surprised the strength of acrylic. (tensile). Although I would need to see pictures, to give you a realistic assessment.

Steve
 
Kenny,
Many years ago I made some frag tanks for an LFS just as you are describing from 1/4" material. They are still in use so there is plenty of strength but they bow more than my tolerances allow. I've actually thought about rebuilding them for free using thicker material.
The way I do them now is use 1/2" with a 3" eurobrace with no crossbracing, or 1" vertical panels with no eurobrace (rimless). 3/4" rimless holds water but starts to bow some.
I like to see things that I don't have to worry about, ever :)

James
 
1/2" would be great for the frag tanks, I'd personally use 1" for the show tank. I've seen a coupla of these style tanks crack due to bad engineering though. It is also critical to have a stand that supports it properly on both levels. An easier way might be to make the whole tank 36"H and just put a big pile of LR on one side and some sort of fascia to give the illusion of a bilevel tank.

HTH,
James
 
I thought about that on making it 36" high and doing the effect with the rock. but after playing around with photoshop and drawing how it will look with a stand I'm gonna go this way. If I have to use 1" I will do it. The stand will be build in metal. This is were I think I will have to messure twice since I beleive it have to be 100% level to support both size.
 
I personally would not put a tank on it. I know of a coupla companies that make them, I just don't like the idea though it may hold just fine.
For acrylic tanks, the weight will cause downward deflection on the stand top thus the tank bottom, leaving bulges on the bottom of the tank. I've seen this scenario play out on a coupla tanks here on RC
For glass tanks, it is my opinion that the allowed deflection will not support a glass tank evenly, putting much stress on the silicone joints. Ie, if the stand bows down, the silicone joints will have that much more stress on them. I don't know with absolute certainty that any failures would occur, but I personally wouldn't risk it.

James
 
i just had tank built by tank maker here locally its 96x30x30 its 3/4 on front and back and sides bottom and the top is 1/2 inch my concern is is the top suppose be 3/4 or is the 1/2 fine on the top
 
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