Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

Relia,
I don't particularly like it, but it's kinda "normal" to use thinner material on top & bottom. If the bracing is adequate - should be fine. FWIW, I'd much rather see thicker material on the vertical panels and thinner on top & bottom than the other way around. Safe to assume ATM built it? If so, they normally use good bracing on top.
Many companies use 1/2" all around on that size tank which IMO bows far too much for my taste but still holds water.

HTH,
James
 
I came upon 3- 12" dia 1/4 wall 15" tall extruded tube for REALLY cheap. I was planning on buying a 30-36" piece of cast, but the stuff was so cheap, I couldn't resist. I am going to make myself a killer Skimmer. Now... I need a piece that is longer than 15", so I must join two of the tubes together.

That routing jig would be nice, but I am thinking I may just have to use the ol' sand paper sheet on flat surface trick to get them nice and flat. Any advise on joining a couple of the tubes together?

Thanks in Advance.
 
Relia,
Depends on how it is braced, but IMO 1/2" is the minimum.

Slavearm,
Are you cerain it's extruded? I know of no company in this country that extrudes 12" diameter tube, always spun cast.
The jig only works if the table is *perfectly* flat so... Joining tubes end to end is not the easiest thing to do and get good joints, but is possible. Prolly the easiest way is to bevel the two pieces, one with a (45degree) bevel towards the inside and the other towards the outside. This will raise the gluing surface area by roughly 40% and alleviate many of the worries of having perfectly mating pieces. Joints won't be *perfect* but plenty strong enough.

HTH,
James
 
It certainly looks extruded by the fine wavy lines running along the length.

I love the idea about doing the bevel. That will even make the glueing process 100% easier. Man you are a genius. It will be hard to get a horizontal glueing surface, but shouldn't be too bad with the 45s. My normal weldon 4 should be fine right? Or should I go with something a little more goopey?
 
I'd prolly use 4, let it run a little, as long as it's strong.

Those might be buffing lines from the final finishing at the factory. Extruded tube is usually kinda yellowish and not real clear at all, at least compared to cast.

James
 
Ok, so with the wo 40, i have just been running a bead down the piece to be glued, and setting it on the other piece. Problem is i cant place the piece perfectly where it needs to be, so there is always some moving i have to do, which smears glue across the surfaces. Is there a way to get the wo 40 into a seam in a capillary style way??
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9791494#post9791494 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bchbum189
Ok, so with the wo 40, i have just been running a bead down the piece to be glued, and setting it on the other piece. Problem is i cant place the piece perfectly where it needs to be, so there is always some moving i have to do, which smears glue across the surfaces. Is there a way to get the wo 40 into a seam in a capillary style way??
Click to expand...
What is generally done is to machine the vertical piece at a slight angle and raised off the horizontal piece a little (held by clamps), the 40 is then applied using a syringe. If you raise it just enough, surface tension will keep the 40 from running just as it keeps solvent from running in a solvent joint.
BTW, the angle changes with thickness; for 1/4" material - maybe 15deg angle, for 1.5" material - maybe 5deg angle. You don't want the gap to be too big or the 40 won't attach to both pieces. Experiment a little to find the comfort zone for the material you are using.

HTH,
James
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9789560#post9789560 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Acrylics
I'd prolly use 4, let it run a little, as long as it's strong.

Those might be buffing lines from the final finishing at the factory. Extruded tube is usually kinda yellowish and not real clear at all, at least compared to cast.

James
Click to expand...

Clear as can be. Maybe I got an even better deal than I thought.

Whats the best way to get pipes in and out? Bulkheads wont fit real well (I checked tonight) due to the contour. Thread them and then use 4052 (I think this is the acrylic to PVC weldon) on the threads? I don't really like uniseals all that much. Or just cut the hole to match the pipe and use a two part epoxy? It looks like on my deltec, they just epoxied a union to the acrylic tube.

Two of them will have to support the weight of 1 pump (an eheim 1262 if that matters.)
Thanks,

Shane
 
Acrylics,
I'm trying to fix a cracked acrylic sump and need your guidance.

Here's the cracked corner ...
crack-01.jpg


Here's my repair job ...
sump-repair_001.jpg


I have water tested it for three days no leaks ...

Question:
I used weld-on #4 for the repair glued from the inside ...
Now should I use weld-on #16 on the inside three seams of the three patch plates ? Or all sides of the patch plates ?
 
I wouldn't think you'd need it all around, but it wouldn't be a significant amount of extra work to do so and it *might* be better. Let it dry out *thoroughly* before adding any solvent like 16

HTH,
James
 
Thanks ... :)

Should I put any weld-on #16 in the other corners ?
This is why I think it cracked ... What do you think ?

sump-repair_002.jpg
 
Getting rid of those flares after bending is another great application for the 90 router jig :)

Did it crack from being full of water? Looks like it was dropped on the corner to me.
 
I think it was dropped durning shipping ... I noticed someting funny on on corner ... but thought it was OK ... Water tested it outside for a few days ... no leaks ... Placed it inside my cabinet. 24 hours later ... wet floors. Crack was small at first, then got bigger.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9814194#post9814194 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
Getting rid of those flares after bending is another great application for the 90 router jig :)
Click to expand...
can you elaborate on this? What is it?
 
A jig that holds the router at a 90 degree angle to the table- horizontal. Then you can raise or lower it to trimt he tops of tubing, bent pieces, etc. I need to take a pic of mine- Its just old MDF.
James' is made of 1" polished acrylic :rolleyes:
 
Its still covered in shavings- a sort of "acrylic camoflauge" that makes it unrecognizable :D I'll have to clean it up and get pics.
 
agsansoo,
That sump should never have been shipped, period. Those flares should have been removed as Chris pointed out.
I don't know if 16 has enough "filling power" to fill it, I've never done it so cannot say. Weld-on 40 however, would be the ticket.
FWIW, if you bought this from a company - I'd definitely be calling them and make them aware. See what they'll do for you.

Chris & bchbum,
Otay, I'll post pics of on of 'em this morning when I get to the office. 1" polished...nah :)

James
 
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