Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

thanks guys i have a good idea on how the gig work now i have more Q? how can i cut it with the router it looks so nice and perfect no chips

and what bit to use

thanks
 
If it's small diameter (8" or under) - don't worry about routing it IMO unless you are making a bunch of them. Just cut it then sand it down 'til smooth. Tape a sheet of 220 sand paper down on a flat table and gently slide each tube end on it until saw marks are gone, sand in one direction only and be sure to not let it rock or vibrate, then turn the piece 90 degrees and repeat with 320 grit - the 320 isn't *necessary* but will make for a better joint.

If doing large diameter, it's a bit different and a jig should be made to route it smooth IMO. One can also use a large sanding block to finish and edge, the results are generally not quite as good but the joint will be fine.

IME chipping has more to do with the quality of the table saw blade. I don't know anyone who actually cuts sections off with a router per se. Any straight carbide cutter will work on the router, for these I use bigger cutters than most - usually 1" - 1.5" diameter straight cutters.

James
 
OK I havent read this entire thread yet (its flippin HUGE!) so dont know if this question has arose yet.

I've been thinking of making my own hob 'fuge for my 20t, something that may hold around 5g

for the top part that curls over the tank wall:
would it be better to have someone heat-bend the acrylic to form the upside down U
or will acrylic strips glued into shape suffice?

I dont have any means of heat-bend the acrylic so i'd have to pay for that.

since my tank stand is widerthan the tank itself, I've thought about making the 'fuge deep enough to partially rest on the stand, or use some sort of 'legs' so the full weight is not resting on that joint.

'course I still have to design the dang thing and working on either make it smaller for a hob skimmer or design one (that works) into the 'fuge.
 
Since you don't have any way to heat bend the acrylic, I would glue the strips into shape. That is what I have done in the past.

Kim
 
Anyone know what kind of Acrylic they have at HD and Lowes? I was thinking about building a smallish sump (maybe 30" long, 10" deep and narrow, 6-8" wide. I don't want to spend a fortune on materials but from what I have read it can make the difference between a good bond or not. Would 1/4 with bracing and a baffel or 2 be enough?
 
Hi IPT,

From what I've seen there (HD, Lowe's, True Value, etc.) it's all extruded acrylic; Plaskolite, Lucite CP, and so on. With a couple of baffles & a little brace, I think you'd be fine.
FWIW, it doesn't make a difference in initial bond strength, in fact I'd argue that most people would have an easier time gluing extruded since it dissolves *much* easier than cell cast. But, it is much more prone to crazing since it can't handle the stresses nearly as well. That's not to say it will, just that it's more likely than cast. Over time (years) the (extruded material) joints tend to degenerate more because of the stresses, but that's in years. The joints will start to look crystalline white, then you'll know it's time to replace or upgrade.
Use all of the same edge preparation as one would cast and do not flame polish it at all. To soften the edges, either put a slight chamfer on it with either a router or (simpler yet) a sanding block.
Hope this makes sense.

James
 
Hi all

I am just getting started with my interest in acrylic fabrication so I can make some of my own projects.
I have spent a lot of time jumping around this thread and learning as much as possible.

My family gave me a brand new table saw and Bench Joiner for fathers day.
I have a small metal bench router table and relize after reading here that I will need something better.
I found this place on line and was thinking this might be a table that would work well for me and my small projects.

http://routertabledepot.com/subetoprotaw.html

Any thoughts??....That one seems to work with the space I have and the budget also. I just dont want to buy something if it wont work for these types of projects.

Thanks for your input....
einsteins
 
I have found a cut(or route) that I have not been able to figure out how to make, and maybe someone here knows the jig and bit I need to make this on my router...

I am making the tops/bottoms of kalk reactors and I made my template to route the circle for the tops, but what i would like to do is recess the tube in the top and bottom before i glue it, not much maybe 1/8 inch or less, I have thought of using my spiralup or spiral down bit, but I cannot figure out how to do this so i can get the repeatable circle routed using my router table...maybe some of you can throw out some ideas...these seem simple enough, to do but I can't figure it out...

Thanks
Jason
 
What shape is your top/bottom? Is it circular? If so you just need to route a set distance in from the edge with your upcut bit. Or you could use the same/similar circle jig and just cut a notch not all the way through.

Kim
 
The Top and bottom are both circles, what I would like is something the works like a template bit and would ride on a circle I would make but use the top of the bit to cut a 1/8" groove in a circle that matches the diameter of the tube...
 
Stealing from James' pictures since I can't find mine.

32445Pict0032.jpg


Typically this is the way you would use a router. It's inverted in the table. The opposite surface from the cut area is stationary as you run the acrylic across the bit shaving off a very small amount. This could be a piece of MDF, scrap acrylic, whatever as long as it's perfectly straight (or else all your cuts will be crooked as well).

I tried a table like you have listed when I first started and the results weren't very pretty. The above is a much better way to do it, and WELL worth the investment if you're doing a large project or number of small projects. I will TRY to find mine, but I had just a piece of MDF and cut the hole for the router plate. The plate was the only costly part (and the router/bits of course). I've since moved to a full blown tablesaw and extension table with the router built in.
 
Thanks RokleM

So I should just build a nice flat table and buy a plate to mount the router to. I suppose the under structure of the table should be recessed from the edges of the table top so I can clamp a guide/fence of some sorts to it.

I also guess that the plate will need to be recessed and flush with the table surface.

Any particular plate that any of you suggest ??

Here is one from the same site....
http://routertabledepot.com/deacin.html

Thanks again for helping me NOT make a wrong decision on this.

eins
 
I have the choice of Cyro and Acrycast from local vendors. Any preferences, andy why?

Also, I'm planning on building a sump, measuring 42x23x18. I can put a euro top on it, but not sure I want to. My options are 3/8" and 1/2" at about $250 a sheet (4'x8') and 3/4" at almost $400 a sheet. What size will I need for reliability and longevity?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12780441#post12780441 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by einsteins
Thanks RokleM

So I should just build a nice flat table and buy a plate to mount the router to. I suppose the under structure of the table should be recessed from the edges of the table top so I can clamp a guide/fence of some sorts to it.

I also guess that the plate will need to be recessed and flush with the table surface.

Any particular plate that any of you suggest ??

Here is one from the same site....
http://routertabledepot.com/deacin.html

Thanks again for helping me NOT make a wrong decision on this.

eins
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if there is a WRONG decision per say. It really depends on your budget and what acrylic projects you're looking at. As well, do you have any other hobbies that could benefit (i.e. woodworking obviously).

Here was before I got the tablesaw:
03.02.2007-3.jpg


I then installed it in the end of my table saw so I could use the fence:
04.05.2007-1.jpg


I purchased a JessEm Rout-R-Lift. It is absolutely a little pricey but has a number of great features. Most importantly, I never have to get under my table to swap bits or adjust. The unit raises and lowers the router itself allowing you to change depth and swap bits.

They also had a template for cutting the actual hole for the router plate. It was made of MDF and probably $20ish.

A little more money up front if you have it, but it was worth it to me personally. The money I saved and fun I had making my sump was worth it (and paid for some tools as well). They've come in handy on my other acrylic projects as well.

11.11.2007-1.jpg


petes97, I'm 60"x17"x25 and have a slight amount of bowing in the middle with 1/2", but I have a number of baffles. I'm sure James will be by with a exact answer later.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12781024#post12781024 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by petes97
I have the choice of Cyro and Acrycast from local vendors. Any preferences, andy why?
Click to expand...
Definitely Cyro, without question. 3/8"+ Cyro is made in one plant in Maine, Acrycast is mde in 5 or 6 different plants throughout the world. IME quality control on Acrycast has been inconsistent at best and most folks will have a hard time gluing it. Of course the sales guy will say something along the lines of "I've never heard of such a problem, I use it all the time" don't believe it, he's trying to make a sale. Acrycast is dirt cheap and the margins on it are great. Cyro will more than likely cost more, it should, it's better material and worth the extra few bux
Also, I'm planning on building a sump, measuring 42x23x18. I can put a euro top on it, but not sure I want to. My options are 3/8" and 1/2" at about $250 a sheet (4'x8') and 3/4" at almost $400 a sheet. What size will I need for reliability and longevity?
Click to expand...
I'd use 1/2" with the eurbrace, a 3" eurobrace will be sufficient and insure the structural integrity of the tank for a long time if you do your job right :)
You can use 3/8" and it'll be fine, again - if you do your part, just that I like the strength and therefore the security of thicker materials and I'd always advise a little overkill for <ahem> the inexperienced :)

HTH,
James
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12780441#post12780441 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by einsteins
Thanks RokleM

So I should just build a nice flat table and buy a plate to mount the router to. I suppose the under structure of the table should be recessed from the edges of the table top so I can clamp a guide/fence of some sorts to it.

I also guess that the plate will need to be recessed and flush with the table surface.

Any particular plate that any of you suggest ??

Here is one from the same site....
http://routertabledepot.com/deacin.html

Thanks again for helping me NOT make a wrong decision on this.

eins
Click to expand...
I'd recommend building your own so you can build it to meet *your* needs. Figure the largest thing you have plans of making and make the table according to that.
The insert in the above link is acrylic and may not hold up well to yrs of abuse.
For my tables, I use 3/4" aluminum or steel (I've used both), this allows you to tap the plate and mount a router base solidly to it. The plate then gets mounted solidly to the table, then the whole thing covered in polished Formica. This means no vibrations and no recessions in the table that paper or other debris can catch on, including the material itself if routing smaller pieces. As you should be able to see in the pic Rokie posted; no screw holes or anything - just a nice smooth surface. Wax the polished Formica every now and then and it makes big heavy things easy to move around. Pledge works well and leaves a nice lemon scent in the shop :)
You should make the under-structure smaller than the table itself. In my case about 6" all around so like in that picture, the table is 60 x 120" and the frame is 48 x 108". Somewhere I have pics when we built it, I'll try to dig them up in the next coupla days.

Of course if you have no plans of making anything of any substantial size, buying prebuilt may be the better option but if you like working with this kinda stuff - you'll like it more with a good router table that will double as gluing table. None of the solvents we use will attach the phenolic top on the Formica so even a solvent spill on it won't have any effect other than forcing you to wax the table again - a chance for more lemony goodness ;) (sorry, had to)

HTH,
James
 
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