Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
troylee
In Memoriam
Tabs pretty much on que......I would say 1"to 1.5" just enough to get something in there for cleaning between them......as for 2 sets of baffles yes you can do this to help with flow and bubble control but its not so much a must......I like to have more open space so I just use one set before the return for evap. And bubble control......
crab0000
New member
Thanks TAB and Troylee. I was going to make a bubble tower like melev suggests on his site for the incoming water and then have a set of baffles just before the return for final bubble control. I'm like Troylee, I want as much open space as possible for skimmers etc. Thanks again!
melev
Well-known member
Another option would be to drill a hole at each end of the crack to stop it from spreading, and then glue a patch of thick acrylic over the entire area with #16, probably from beneath the tank.
Then if you planned to put foam underneath the tank, hollow out the matching depression that patch creates so everything is equally supported.
You can patch it from both sides for added security.
If none of that works (do a water test for a while), you can always route off the base like troylee suggests and glue a new base to the tank.
And of course, you could call the mfg to ask them what they think.
Then if you planned to put foam underneath the tank, hollow out the matching depression that patch creates so everything is equally supported.
You can patch it from both sides for added security.
If none of that works (do a water test for a while), you can always route off the base like troylee suggests and glue a new base to the tank.
And of course, you could call the mfg to ask them what they think.
I would fill the crack with weldon 4 before I glued the patch on as well. I think it would be fine with a 1/2 inch patch applied inside the tank, but you will have to let the tank dry for quite a while before gluing the patch, and I would use weldon 40/42 not 16 to glue he patch on it.
Kim
Kim
I just found this thread! Great reading by the way. I have a current thread that I think ties in here rather well, and will likely get more exposure. James has already helped me quite a bit, but I have a few more questions.
Thanks,
Ronnie
Thanks,
Ronnie
1)
2. It has two bulkheads right now, but no overflow box. What can I do for the return and overflow? I'd like to look show quality, so something nice would be, well, nice!
2) buy or build an overflow box and glue it in. Or, just use them as standpipes
I am wanting to do an external overflow. The tank has a top piece, so I'm not sure how to cut the acrylic. Should I go cut the top piece and the back, or do I leave the top and just cut the back out?
Also, is the overflow box big enough? I'm not going to be pushing too many GPH through it. Probably around 700-1000GPH.
4. When I do drill, what type of bit do I use? I've drilled a number of glass holes, but I can't use those bits. What is the best bit to use.
4) router if you're comfy with it hole-saw if not. Any of the big box stores will sell hole-saws
What type of hole saw - and will any router bit work, or should I get a specfic one?
7) I'm no help with pumps and the like
Can someone chime in here and say whether my closed loop looks good? I'm most likely going with a Dart for the closed loop. I'm thinking four 1" bulkheads on the bottom and then two 1.5" Jet bulkheads on the back. Is this too many returns? Should I cut it down to two on the bottom and two on the back? The two on the back are already there, so I am for sure using them with the jet bulkheads.
HTH, at least somewhat
James
Here is my thread - may be a little easier to read through:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1717304
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1717304
rtbm
Member
alright now I am down right terrified. I called my dad and had him double check the width of the walls of the tank. It's in his garage and they are exactly 1/2" not a 64th more. the tank was built as an aquarium that much I am sure of. It already has a cracked bottom that I was going to repair. I am wondering if I should just walk away from this and scrap it for a prop tank or something. I am afraid you guys have not wanting to set this thing up at this point. What are the real dangers of a tank this size built with 1/2 acrylic?
motopsycho
Member
I have been waiting around for a while for a shop to make me several tanks out of glass, 55 inches long by 28 1/2 inches wide and 6 inches high.
I'm willing to give it a shot out of acrylic. What thickness could I get away with and do I require bracing?
I'm willing to give it a shot out of acrylic. What thickness could I get away with and do I require bracing?
troylee
In Memoriam
Trash the tank it is pretty much garbage under built and already broken...1/2" ain't gonna cut it that's crazy...
troylee
In Memoriam
I would use half inch with a euro or. 3/4". Sides if ya wanna go rimless with a 1/2" bottom
melev
Well-known member
That's roughly 40g. Due to the height being so shallow, I do believe you could make this out of 1/4" easily enough if you install a top flange. The walls would only be 5.5" tall, with a 1/4" base and 1/4" top.
If you'd like it a little more rugged, 3/8" cast acrylic (AcryLite GP) would be a nice upgrade.
Believe it or not, most tanks this size are built using 1/2", it's the "industry standard" from the mass production mfrs
Should be made from 3/4" at a minimum but 1/2" will hold water provided it has proper bracing. It'll just bow like a mofo and then scratching becomes more problematic when cleaning.Personally, I'd walk away. You'll be spending a good bit of time and money working on something that is probably not going to make you happy, and that just ain't worth it to me.
You could "get away" with 1/2" for the vertical panels and 1/4" for the bottom, thicker bottom would be a bit better but won't change the characteristics of the tank. Don't bother with bracing if you use 1/2" or thicker, not needed and more effort than it's worth in this case. By using 1/2" for the vertical walls, you won't need to spend money on the top which would cost more. Call a local fabricator and ask if you can go through his scrap. Strips like that are practically "giveaways" that I, for one can't use for much, and I'd rather it not go into landfill so likely sell it for a coupla bucks just to recoup costs.
HTH,
James
