Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

James,
What is the safe range of ph for acrylic? Say I want to clean a really calcified tank or reactor with vinegar or even stronger acid solution. What can I get away with without crazing, surface, or structural damage?

Thanks!
Chris

:wavehand:
 
I've cleaned things with muriatic acid many times without issues (skimmers, frag tank, calcium reactor, etc). Although I don't have an exact answer to your question, I think muriatic is one of the harshest and most effective things that can be used and has proven to not be an issue.
 
Sorry Chris, missed it :(
Assuming you are referring to used material; I'm not sure there is a safe limit as most times it depends on stress levels within the acrylic. I've seen tanks craze from just vinegar but most of the time they won't, so I'm not certain that there is a true/finite answer. Stressed material won't be able to handle what unstressed material can, just like extruded material can't handle things that cell cast can. What those limits are just depends on the mole wt of the material and stress levels in the material.

Wish I could answer better,
James
 
To elaborate on James' post, just FYI... All the muriatic acid cleaning I've done has been on quality name brand cast.
 
I've had the pH plummet in my calcium reactor to 5.5 and the acrylic looks fine. It's made by Lifereef, and is surely cast acrylic.
 
Thought I would pass this idea by you guys since there is so many acrylic gurus here.

I would like to build a 6' tank that is 18-24" high and 12" wide. I am not sure how to go about this, a custom job or do I try and modify an existing acrylic tank. 6' tanks seem to show up for sale pretty regularly(used) for a very small amount, plus I am hopping to cut the thing in half and try and get two tanks out of it.

So the question is, is it worth it? Or should I just go ahead and have something built?

I do like to DIY, a whole tank is beyond me but I may be able to pull off putting in one panel, as long as its the back and not visible.
 
Thought I would pass this idea by you guys since there is so many acrylic gurus here.

I would like to build a 6' tank that is 18-24" high and 12" wide. I am not sure how to go about this, a custom job or do I try and modify an existing acrylic tank. 6' tanks seem to show up for sale pretty regularly(used) for a very small amount, plus I am hopping to cut the thing in half and try and get two tanks out of it.

So the question is, is it worth it? Or should I just go ahead and have something built?

I do like to DIY, a whole tank is beyond me but I may be able to pull off putting in one panel, as long as its the back and not visible.
Is it doable? yes, but I wouldn't advise it. If you want to try it for "culture" - go ahead, but other than that; by the time you buy the tank, buy any tooling you might need, buy the new material, and then account for your time and consider that you're still investing in a used tank, I'm not sure you'll think it's worth it.

James
 
Has any one cut a fully assembled acrylic tank? Can it be done? how hard is it? and what tools do you need to do it properly?
Cut down quite a few of them, it's not particularly difficult but takes even more skill & effort than building a new one. If you know how to do it, you can do it with a router or a table saw or a Skil saw or any number of implements of destruction. Cutting it in half is the easy part, getting all 4 panes to meet within a coupla thousanths of an inch with a nice edge is the tricky part. You need the edges to line up well to glue a new top/bottom on.

Personally, I'd do it with a router but I'm used to it, I have the tooling, the jigs, the fences, etc. Like the post above yours, I wouldn't advise it.

James
 
I have full access to a machine shop mills cnc machines etc. Thousanths of an inch for a machined part is just a walk in the park. my prob is just getting the tank cut. I have access to a table saw and circular saw. but have not cut anything up to half inch before is there any special blade i need for this? The tank is cracked a little on the top of the front and back panes and I just would like to get rid of them and replace the euro brace. It's a very nice tank and i would hate to just toss it for a crack smaller than 3 inches. It still holds water with out any issues but if it cost me 150 - 200 buck to fix it right to me its worth it.
 
Then just cut it with a Skill saw or jig saw and machine it down to desired dimension.

As you are going to machine it down, don't worry about the blade too much. A 10-80T non-ferrous metal blade will work nicely.

FWIW, "end cuts" don't glue well. By this I mean using then end of a cutter to get a gluable edge is problematic as they will be slightly pitted. Not evident by looking at it but when you apply solvent - it will be.

For feed rates and the like, start machining it as if it were aluminum and adjust as necessary.

James
 
I was thinking of building a rimless 2x2x4 120 gallon. I would use Acralite GP. 1" bottom, front and back. And 3/4" sides so that vortech's will still work. What are your thoughts?
 
Hello all.
I've found a 640 gallon (96" by 34" by 48" tall, 1 1/2" thick) acrylic tank at a great price. The problem is that one of the 34" sides has a 16" long hairline crack that runs from the bottom up towards the top, 3" from the corner. When filled with water, this crack does seep water.
Can I fix this crack by simply affixing a 1/2" thick piece of acrylic over the crack? Would it be best to go the full 34" interior width from corner to corner and several inches above the crack itself?
Should I add some to the outside of the tank as well?
Or, is this tank done in terms of use as an aquarium?
I'll be driving over 8 hours to pick it up, so I'd like to know for sure it this tank can be fixed and be safe to use as an aquarium.
Thoughts? Thanks for any advice and tips!
 
I was thinking of building a rimless 2x2x4 120 gallon. I would use Acralite GP. 1" bottom, front and back. And 3/4" sides so that vortech's will still work. What are your thoughts?
IMO not thick enough material to be rimless. It will look fine at the start but give it a few months and it'll start to bow and that amount of deflection is not something we want to see in a rimless tank.
It'll hold water if you do your part, but...
IMO use the same material and eurobrace it. But don't worry about 1" on the bottom - not at all necessary :)

James
 
I posted this on the large tank forum but I only received opinions, not real experience, so I'll ask here.

I'm buying a used tank made from 1" acrylic 96X34X26h. I want to use a Vortec or two with the battery backup incase of a power outage. Can I route out a circular area in the back of the tank to 3/4" to allow for the operation of the Vortecs?
 
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