henrystyle
Member
That makes sense. So how big of a slit is needed to be effective? 1/4" OR 1/2"? Don't want any fish or snails to get sucked through......Thx
Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Not necessarily, this would depend on your flow rate. The bottom of the slit is only the top water surface if the water is just trickling over
James
I had talked with James about that when I was looking at having a tank done....so maybe he'll chime back in here, but mine is roughly 1.75 the entire length of the overflow. I'm in the process of building a plywood tank, and I was going to make a bracket out of plyood and epoxy and use eggcrate to stop any errant fish from the overflow.....I know it will restrict some flow, but don't think it will be major though. And again if it does significantly hurt flow it's removeable.
yes but it is way too deep to sand out it needs to be filled i know it wont be perfect but ehhh
Pufferlips
New member
Hello...
Going to build a "Rimless" cube (24x24x24 - 60 Gallon) was thinking 1" should be okay for deflection.
Questions I have:
* Can I use 1/2' on the bottom?
* Use of weldon 40 the right choice?
* I have heard that I should put a 2-5 degree beveled edge for the joints, to allow for proper coverage and flow, is this true?
* Still need to use pins?
I have built some smaller items (sumps, filter, and a tank) comfortable with it all, just thicker product and thicker chunk of $$$
Thank you in advance
Going to build a "Rimless" cube (24x24x24 - 60 Gallon) was thinking 1" should be okay for deflection.
Questions I have:
* Can I use 1/2' on the bottom?
* Use of weldon 40 the right choice?
* I have heard that I should put a 2-5 degree beveled edge for the joints, to allow for proper coverage and flow, is this true?
* Still need to use pins?
I have built some smaller items (sumps, filter, and a tank) comfortable with it all, just thicker product and thicker chunk of $$$
Thank you in advance
Should be fine
Yep
no matter really, solvent or 40/42
only if using 40/42 and the angle itself is meaningless. You want ~.125+" gap on one side and .060" on the other. Whatever this angle turns out to be is the proper angle.
you'll likely need something thicker if you plan to use 40 or 42 and use these only at the ends of the joint.
Do lots of practice joints with the thicker material until you are comfy with it.
**** Be absolutely certain you are using a high quality material. Joints can look fantastic but that won't equate to strength if the 40 doesn't bite into the material. I've seen lots of tanks literally fall apart at first fill because the builders used garbage material.
Quick story:
There was a new public aquarium being built about 12-13 years ago, the board of directors went cheap and let the general contractor hire the job out based on price. The shop that did the job based their pricing on using cheap material and casting all the joints using 40, so they did. Every single tank (about 20 of them) either leaked or fell apart. The GC and the builder both went under and the entire thing is still in litigation last I heard a coupla years ago.
"Joint strength" means absolutely nothing if the 40 doesn't actually stick and bite into the material.
So use good stuff
HTH,
James
Pufferlips
New member
Its clear cast from China...
Pufferlips
New member
Just Kidding....
Pufferlips
New member
It is Plexiglss G
Pufferlips
New member
Thank you... another question for you. When you mentioned solvent, which one were you referring to?
I used some 3 with a little acid in it and achieved a great joint with it.
Also, have you ever soaked acrylic in a VERY shallow bath with pins keeping it from the bottom until you achieve a cushion, (20-30 sec) then put it against a jig clamped in and set it?
Thanks again
I used some 3 with a little acid in it and achieved a great joint with it.
Also, have you ever soaked acrylic in a VERY shallow bath with pins keeping it from the bottom until you achieve a cushion, (20-30 sec) then put it against a jig clamped in and set it?
Thanks again
henrystyle
Member
Whatever your choice is, I make my own as many do.
Yep, the acid can really help the solvent flow better. 3 is just too fast for larger things made from thick material, but the acid will definitely help that.
Yeah, but IMO this is not the application for the dip or soak method. Those methods are best left to those applications in which aethetics are not issues. Ie., joints that don't have to look good
HTH,
James
SFeST
Member
Alright, I might have a somewhat unique question.
I'm planning on building a ~15g coldwater nano and I want to use 3/4 acrylic for proper insulation. I have 2 concerns:
1.) It's not very big, (20 long, 15 deep, 12 high) so I was thinking it might be a waste to buy a whole sheet of 3/4. Is it likely to be more cost effective to buy the pieces already cut for me by a plastics shop? I'm not sure I have proper tools for cutting stuff that thick anyway.
2.) How much would it sweat if I used a thinner acrylic? The tank will likely be 55ish degrees. I was thinking if I was getting the pieces already cut for me, I might be able to save some more money by only having 2 view sides be 3/4 (or thicker) and the rest be 3/8, and then stuff a bunch of styrofoam around the back two sides and underneath it and build a nice stand/hood or something around it to hide it all. My biggest concern would be if it started to sweat between the styrofoam and the acrylic, and then drips down and accumulates somewhere I can't see. What are the chances of that happening? Are there any other non-obvious issues to doing it this way? I have a sketchup drawing of this design to show you if I'm not being clear enough.
Thanks for any help.
I'm planning on building a ~15g coldwater nano and I want to use 3/4 acrylic for proper insulation. I have 2 concerns:
1.) It's not very big, (20 long, 15 deep, 12 high) so I was thinking it might be a waste to buy a whole sheet of 3/4. Is it likely to be more cost effective to buy the pieces already cut for me by a plastics shop? I'm not sure I have proper tools for cutting stuff that thick anyway.
2.) How much would it sweat if I used a thinner acrylic? The tank will likely be 55ish degrees. I was thinking if I was getting the pieces already cut for me, I might be able to save some more money by only having 2 view sides be 3/4 (or thicker) and the rest be 3/8, and then stuff a bunch of styrofoam around the back two sides and underneath it and build a nice stand/hood or something around it to hide it all. My biggest concern would be if it started to sweat between the styrofoam and the acrylic, and then drips down and accumulates somewhere I can't see. What are the chances of that happening? Are there any other non-obvious issues to doing it this way? I have a sketchup drawing of this design to show you if I'm not being clear enough.
Thanks for any help.
Pufferlips
New member
Thank you James for the insight... I will do a 20 gallon rimless for pactice.
(will post pics)
(will post pics)
The amount of condensation you will get is determined by the temp differential between the material and ambient temp and also ambient humidity. So, there's no real way to quantify how much it will sweat as the conditions vary season to season. That said, your area does have fairly humid air, dew point usually at least 40-50F if not higher and fairly warm so I'd say you'd get quite a bit.
Personally, I'd just built it all from thick acrylic. IMO not worth that much effort to save $30-40. If you need a source in your area for the material, send me a PM. I have a very good friend in this business just a few minutes north of you.
HTH,
James
SFeST
Member
Good call, I didn't know I would only be saving a few bucks (relatively.) I've done a few projects with glass before but never acrylics like this so I wasn't sure what to expect. I haven't looked into prices yet as this is going to be a long winded project no matter what (cycling a coldwater tank takes 5+ months and I don't even have a chiller yet...) I'm in no hurry.
Would your contact happen to be at tap plastics? I was probably going to order from them, I've gotten a few things from them before and I was very pleased, unless your buddy is somewhere else. I wouldn't mind swinging business his way.
Thanks
Would your contact happen to be at tap plastics? I was probably going to order from them, I've gotten a few things from them before and I was very pleased, unless your buddy is somewhere else. I wouldn't mind swinging business his way.
Thanks
Blown76mav
Member
Anyone have the link to the place that sells all the acrylic flanges, diffusers and cones?
Thanks
Thanks
