Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

Is it ok to get the acrylic pieces cut exactly to measurement or leave on a little on each and then route it?

you always want to come back at the end and flush cut....
it makes it way eaiser gluing/welding and alot cleaner than trying to work on the edge flush...
 
Since I'm buying pieces already cut, what should I do about flush cut. I'm getting my pieces cut to the exact dimensions. I'm not quite sure how to go about trying to flush my edges.
 
No, go ahead and make them as you had. No need to make them different lengths as far as I can tell :)
The boxes are going to weigh about 2lbs each +/- so weight should not even be a factor.
I have a tank under construction in which the overflow weighs ~35-40lbs and I don't consider weight a factor. If the overflow is build well, should not be an issue. That said, I would use thicker material on your overflow. Remember, the external overflow box is essentially a rimless tank you are building, it should be built accordingly :)

HTH,
James

Good point. I didn't think of it as a rimless tank. The overflow box will be 16" x 4" x 5" (LxWxH). Do you think I should use thicker material than 1/4" for this size still? If so, would 3/8" be ok?
 
Good point. I didn't think of it as a rimless tank. The overflow box will be 16" x 4" x 5" (LxWxH). Do you think I should use thicker material than 1/4" for this size still? If so, would 3/8" be ok?

Should be fine, I know you're only going to have 3" or so of water in it. The reality is that 1/4" should be okay with that water level, but IMO using a slightly thicker material helps people sleep better at night - I know it works for me :)

James
 
if you went 20tall with a 18" waterline one inch would be okay...
if you are gonna euro brace it 3/4" walls with a 1/2" thick bottom and euro is fine....leave a 4" perimeter for the euro....if you want no center brace.

Thanks!! I may go with the 1" (only $60 more) for the 4 sides with the 1/2" bottom and euro top bracing just for a little extra piece of mind.
Is CYRO cell cast a good brand? what about Chem cast?

Thanks Timmy
 
Cyro Acrylite GP = good
Spartech Polycast = good
Plexi-Glas G = good

Chemcast GP = not so much, seen too many tank joints fail using this material

James
 
Used material and new material will behave differently so no surprise that there is a difference. But to answer your question; no - not an accurate description IMO. From a physical properties perspective, there is very little difference between cell cast, continuous cast, and extruded. There will be some differences in the way they fabricate; how they cut, glue, bend, etc., but these are due to the primary difference between cast and extruded - namely how the molecules are chained together and the lengths of those molecular chains. Cell cast material had very long molecular chains which makes the material more stable under load (stress) whereas extruded material has very short molecular chains which makes it relatively unstable under similar loads.

If you wish, think of it as the difference between plywood and partical board. One has long grain structure which provides some stability while the other is made oup of small particals stuck together. Place a load on each and see how they perform. While not an accurate analogy, it should show the difference well enough :)

Please note that none of the actual numbers are published on any physical or chemical properties page by any mfr that I know of.


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James your analogy works for me ,thanks.
Regarding working the different materials [old tank VS new acrylite FF]
Do I understand you ,are you saying the difference is age and maybe the old material absorbed some water into itself to behave different. ??
 
James your analogy works for me ,thanks.
Regarding working the different materials [old tank VS new acrylite FF]
Do I understand you ,are you saying the difference is age and maybe the old material absorbed some water into itself to behave different. ??
that would be possible. Stressed material also behaves differently than new material. Also, different brands of cell cast sometimes material behave differently, and colors can be different as well.

James, what do you regard as the best acrylic? Thanks
What is the application? For bulk sheet that will never be glued to anything, I like cross-linked acrylic or Reynolds' US material. For acrylic to glue together like for tanks, Spartech Polycast is best IMO.
Other brands and types may lend themselves better to particular applications. Eg., for just pieces that a cut, routed, and flame polished - Acrylite FF is hard to beat, it polishes as well as anything else and the colors polish better than any brand/type IME and the finish is nearly as good as cast if not equal.

HTH,
James
 
Hey Henry....you can try Grim's plastic....they are in Harrisburg and easy to deal with.....TotalPlastics has a shop here as well, but they put a min purchase amount to deal with them....And there is a another good place down around Downingtown PA that has really good prices and they carry Polycast and Spartech
Any idea what the name of the place in Downingtown is?
 
hi everyone
after you glue up a tank and rout it,,then
-what do you use to buff out all the edge?
also there are some weldon 3 running down on the bottom sheet which is front and back of the tank,,,
-how do you get that out?? sand and buff?
what cause it running? too big of the pin? or too close of each pin? thanks all
 
bow in my tank

bow in my tank

well I have always had glass tanks and well wanted to get a big tank and knew that i wanted to try a acrylic tank so I i now have a 260 gallon acrylic tank well it is made of 5/8 thick side walls and 1/2 top and bottom when i filled it 3/4 of the way up i was checking to see if stand was still level for fun i just checked for plumb and i noticed that there is a 1/8 of inch bow in the face that being said my tank is three feet tall so from middle out to the top and middle to bottom there is 1/8 of am inch bow. so now my question is is that how acrylic is or should i be alarmed? i have held up the filling process till someone chimes in this little bow worries me and my wife as our home is new and 260 gallons is alot of watter go be sitting in the living room.
 
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how long has the tank sat empty before filling it back up??? 1/8" is'nt really a problem but if the tank sat dry for a couple months and the intial fill shows a 1/8" i would plan on a 1/4" down the road....not really gonna hurt it, but looks unsightly...hard to say with out pics also....is it a ciy tank or a factory made??? also what are the demensions??? you say 36"tall?? it should be 1" material imo.....
 
Tank is 72 long and 36tall and 24 wide the side are 5/8 inch and bottom is and top are 1/2 inch thick. I believe the tank sat for two months empty the only thing bowing is the front it kinda like a small pimple it doesn't cause and distortions that I can tell. Heres a few pictures of the tank empty i have to take ones since i have filled it.
 

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that's really cutting it close imo.... i would say 3/4" walls is pushing it...1" is what that tank would call out for....:(
i can say this much it will hold water without a doubt but for how long who knows???? the joint's are really gonna be stressed with that pressure at 36"tall...
it look's like it was well used....do you see any crazing around the seams???
 
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