Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

blackizzz said:
Thanks! but do you have any of those companies names on hand,
Click to expand...
No, sorry :( just something I don't get involved with anymore. Try posting a query re: DIY cone or where to get one, I'm sure someone will chime in. I've seen this topic on several occasions

James
 
Yes But is that acrylic? I would imagine you'll have to pay the double for acrylic versus all regular glass.


Sent from my iPhone 3Gs using Tapatalk

//Blackizzz
 
blackizzz said:
For a full size sheet (4'x8') it costs around 400 for acrylite GP...
Click to expand...

$252 from Piedmont Plastics.

James,

Going by your DIY tutorial thread... The piece is in place, clamped with your MDF squares, and pins are in. Once you pull the pins, do you loosen the clamps so the piece can fall the thickness of the pin, then reclamp?

Or is the clamp tight enough to maintain a 90* angle, but loose enough so that when the pins are pulled the weight of the acrylic allows the piece to slip the thickness of the pin?

Somebody should really make a video :)

Also, James, I have emailed you twice about pics for the BeanAnimal style set-up. I am ready for a quote and possible a deposit. My email addy looks like my username here.
 
hvacman250 said:
$252 from Piedmont Plastics.
Click to expand...
I doubt that is for top quality cell cast acrylic? brand?

Going by your DIY tutorial thread... The piece is in place, clamped with your MDF squares, and pins are in. Once you pull the pins, do you loosen the clamps so the piece can fall the thickness of the pin, then reclamp?
Click to expand...
yep :)

Or is the clamp tight enough to maintain a 90* angle, but loose enough so that when the pins are pulled the weight of the acrylic allows the piece to slip the thickness of the pin?
Click to expand...
thin acrylic is not heavy enough to do this, but thicker (3/4"+) usually is.
 
I was quoted Acrylite GP by Piedmont Plastics yesterday (we have one locally).
48" x 96" sheet; 3/8" was $191, 1/2" was $252, 3/4" was $384.

I am waiting for a quote for Polycast; he did not have current pricing in front of him. Only thing he told me was Polycast was probably 10% more expensive than Acrylite GP.

James, if you as an expert buying bulk pay more than this, and others are paying double what I posted, could something be fishy from Piedmont Plastics?
 
I don't buy 1/2" GP material so can't say what I'd pay for it. As for Piedmont, don't know much about the company other than they're big, so couldn't say to be honest.
Sounds like you have a wholesale account with them that most others don't have. I would figure that stuff to go for $10-12/sq ft retail.
 
I dont have an account with them. I'[m just a regular ol' Joe Schmoe to them.
I googled "acrylic, Greenville, SC" and they came up. but you're right; they do appear to be a huge company.

I don't want to buy an inferior product though. It will just be a sump though, so I'm not too afraid.

YOU are building the main tank :)
 
James just got finished reading your DIY thread in its entirety and i have a few questions about tools. Router; probably going with Bosch's new 2.3 HP combo kit -- set it all up on a large hacked table made of MDF using some large levels as a fence. Was going to get a porter router but the reviews for the mid size 2 1/4 HP were horrible after a little research.

Router Bits:
looking at Whiteside Solid Carbide Flush Trim Spiral Bit to make the finishing and euro brace cuts
maybe a bosche 1.5in diameter Carbide Tipped Double Flute Straight Bits for squaring
and a whiteside 45° CHAMFER to ease the edges
any other bits i may need to work 3/4in Acrylic?

ok some dumb questions, what does shank diameter determine is there an advantage of 1/2in over 1/4in i assume 1/2in would be more stable?

How do you rough cut the euro brace? Im thinking plunge route a starter hole, then can i rough cut the rest with a flush trim bit without a template and then use the template with the same bit to finish the job? not sure how comfortable i am at drop cutting with a circular saw for the rough cut.

Ok and to completely change the subject, after reading for hours im still unsure about the purpose of shimming. Let me take a stab at what i think it is for.
Before solvent welding i use a light to see if there is any gaps between the acrylic pieces and then shim any gaps with excess acrylic pieces and then place the pins and solvent weld. do i have that right?

Lots of questions, :) thanks for your time.
 
Dam just though of one more question about router bits sry,

up cut, down cut, combination cut....whats the advantage and what should i be looking for in regards to shaping acrylic?

Again, Thanks for your time james its much appreciated.

-BP-
 
IDK what james will say but up cut is best on a table mounted router, down cut for hand help apps..this dictates which way the shaving get discharged (if you have a vacuum sys. then idk).. I was using a standard 1/4" cut bit. I was having trouble with material overheating/melting..I though it was my feed speed but TODAY I bought a up cut/ plastic bit and it is like night and day..Look up craftics they sell excellent bits,adhesives, etc.. I would recommend them..
 
I recently routered some new 1/4"
acrylic lids for my tank, the old ones had holes to lift them that would allow fish to escape. A week later and the new
ones the ends are warped up and they don't fit properly. Is that because they are not cast acrylic? It's only 8 t5 bulbs.
 
so a down cut bit for plunge routing and handheld stuff...and down cut for everything table mounted. That makes sense. Are combination bits any good?
 
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