Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10234326#post10234326 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by evolust
I wont be able to polish out the mark where they came together?
As a product of a chemical weld, some of the black material will migrate to the clear and some of the clear into the black. You could get *most* of it out but there will always be some scarring/discoloration and possibly some crazing due to the secondary operations in polishing it out, not to mention the possibility of some structural damage. Properly glued, the pieces fuse together, for all practical purposes - as one new piece.

How would you recommend removing the overflow?
Generally speaking, I wouldn't. A good bit of damage is apt to be done by attempting to remove it.

James
 
This thread was awesome I built my own sump based on what I learned. Thanks to everyone who gave info in this thread!!
 
BTW I used the stock blade that came with my tablesaw. But I did all of my edge finish work with a router. It was very easy this way. Just make sure you setup your router and fence and make ALL of the cuts you need for that dimension at once. That way all of the baffles or endpieces are the same length/width and you don't have to stress over reset your fence to the exact dimension. Also the straightcut routerbit I used wanted to draw the piece away from the fence if I wasn't careful.
 
Hello!

I am starting a sump/fug project and I think I will need a lot of help. I have a lot of sheet acrylic that I want to cut to spec dimensions for the sump/fug. I dont have a lot of tools, just a hand held circular saw and an electric drill. budget is super tight so i only have enough money to buy a saw blade.

is it possibly to cut precision straight edges with a hand held circular saw? if so how?

I have weld on 3 and 16 should i go out and get 4?

After the pieces have been cut, how do you start bonding them together? ie: sides to sides first?

and how do you cut multiple pieces of the same length? for the baffles dont they have to be pretty much the same length so some arent shorter than the other so they can be bonded to the side walls?

I know i have a lot of questions. I posted a thread with the same questions but noone seems to be replying. Thanks for any help!
 
if you have wo 3 then just use it, 4 is very similar just sets slightly slower.

I bond sides to front, sides to back, then top to perimeter and bottom last.
 
I was given the impression that weld on 4 was stronger bc it melts more of the acrylic due to the fact that it sets slower, letting it get into the material more. and that 3 was a quick set bond, not for major jobs. is this true? or can i use 3 for my sump?
 
it is "easier" to get a good seam with 4 than 3, however, 3 is more than capable of giving a very strong seam. Either one done wrong will fail all the same, so IMO if you get a good seam then i would not worry, if its full of bubbles then i would worry.
I dont consider 3 and 4 very different at all.
 
i have what i hope is a easily answered question, i have a aquac ev180 and the acrylic riser tube broke all the way around and i want to glue it back what exactly should i use ? thanx
 
What I would do, is use some weldon 16. Run a bead around where the riser sets on the box and then put the riser back on. Should hold it pretty well and still end up with a water proof seal. This is quick and easy and will work, but is not the best way to be honest, but it does not require any machineing.

Kim
 
the other(harder) way involves a 2 part epoxy called weld on 40 that is alot stronger but if you think it wont move once you get it back in might just want to do the 16.
 
Great thread!! Thank you to all who have managed to answer all but one question I could have thought of before I even could ask.

My one question is - would you recommend a 1st time acrylic project be kept small or is a 48" sump OK? - I do understand about practicing on scraps, I was just looking for the voice of experience on if "size matters" on such a project?
 
Most of the principals will remain the same whether it's a small box using 1/4" acrylic or a large tank using 1" acrylic. The primary differences IMO are the cost of mistakes are much higher in bigger projects and tooling can get much higher for bigger, thicker materials. My personal opinion is to start smaller and gain confidence, then gradually work your way up. That said, the 48" sumps aren't that big and if you have the confidence - as good a place to learn as any.
Good luck :)

HTH,
James
 
Great info in these threads... I am starting to shop around for materials to build a sump/fuge...

What should I be looking at as a reasonable deal on 4' X 8' - 3/8" Acrylite GP?

Thanks!
Chris
 
Acrylics! I Looked at your gallery, Nice work!
I have a couple questions for you, when you have a chance.
1) i noticed you clamp square blocks to inside and glue from outside, "do you leave an edge on the bottom sheet to apply glue and then flush cut after?
2) i see layout boards with foam strips, i think on them, is this for protection of material or what?
3)What kind of cement do you use the most , ie weld on 40 or what
and by the way the all clear tank and stand is very cool. i have wondered what a tank like that would look like
 
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