Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

now I understand why everybody who seriously uses router tabes for acrylic projects makes their own table instead of buying one.

it's all making sense now :) right now my garage is chock full of crap, so I won't be making any tables anytime soon (

thanks once again!

just what is my garage full of???!!?!?!?

167670woodstand.jpg


1676704tanks.jpg


167670garagework.jpg


its far worse than that now, as I've got several stacks of drywall and beads, and scrap wood literally covering everywhere..... oh and a new JET jointer :D
 
Ryan,
Is there a removable leg for your stand that gets put in after the sump? I'd be worried about having no support at such a critical point on the stand.
 
ROFLMAO!

I don't have a wife yet, but I'll ask my girlfriend to park her prius on the far side :)

H20ENG,
Yes, I added a removable leg. Currently its just scrap wood that fits nice, but I'm going to try and cut a rough mortise/tenon, and place the base of the leg on lifting levelers (already got those on all the wood legs). It will dry fit in the mortise and I can adjust the levelers.

without the removable leg it will sag downwards ~2-4mm after a few hours have passed so Its definitely needed when the tanks are filled. I bought a jack-post that fits so that I can temporarily take the load off the leg and remove it to fit in a large sump :D or to plumb the returns etc...
 
So I've used my dewalt portable table saw with a few different metal blades to cut some acrylic, and a few of the blades have a good amount of melted acrylic that is baked on pretty hard.

anybody have a recommendation for cleaning it off?
 
Ryan,
IME once they start melting - get them resharpened. When the saw blade guy resharpens them, they'll clean them up.

I'll try a pic of one of the router tables at some point.

James
 
What kind of teeth, and how many? You could try using a solvent like MEK to dissolve the plastic. I would say heat it and scrape it off, but then you may warp the blade.

I have found that with most blades, the acrylic seems to cut cleaner if the blade is raised 1-1.5" above the acrylic being cut.

James, whats your take on blade height? Been meaning to ask you..
 
I don't worry much about blade height to be honest. If the pieces being cut are <1.5", I tend to keep the blade height relatively low just to save fingers. Other than that - no worries either way really.

James
 
I have played with different heights (angles of attack by the blade) and it just seems to cut nicer- no melting on my homeowner style tablesaw.

The 3HP Powermatic at work has no problem:)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11561791#post11561791 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
The 3HP Powermatic at work has no problem:)
I've got the 5hp, maybe that's why I don't worry about it ;)

The big panel saw is not exactly easily adjustable in that manner and it seem to cut pretty much anything rather well. Me likes power feed.

James
 
So James, you dont get melting on the blade of your Dremel?:lol:
Power feed. Sheesh. Rub it in whydontcha...

Man, you need to give us a video tour of your shop!
 
Ok so im about to start to build my first acrylic refugium. I baught a 4x8 sheet of acrylic and cut up all my outside panels, but before I started assembling them I cut a couple test pieces to make sure the weldon #4 was good to go.

So I filled up a syringe and filed down the raw edge of the test peice to smooth it out. I clamped both pieces together then began to slowly apply the weldon into the seam of the two pieces.

What happend was it seeped through and went onto the back side of the test piece and melted the face of it. I just dont think my methods are correct.

I've tried sifting through this topic but there are sooo many pages and a ton of splits making it very difficult. I was wondering if someone out there would be kind enough to give me a run down on what steps I should be taking.

For more information on my build you can check out my thread HERE
 
Welcome to the thread :)

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_acrylic_aquarium.php

This page lists alot of what is described on these pages out in pretty good detail. You may want to skim this thread again after reading that. it's more concise, but you can learn much more if you go back and read this thread from the beginning. Alot of work, I know :D

search that article for 'pins' and youll see why your method isn't working so well.

Hope that helps!
Ryan
 
Hi everyone, really glad to find this thread, I have a question about an acrylic tank/stand i picked up recently really cheap. It is a 110 60x24x18, the stand and canopy are also acrylic. the thickness of the acrylic is 3/8 and it appears in good shape, the tank bows a little, but it only seems to in the back, and not much, my question is about the stand. it bows a little, only in the back, and I am wondering if this is normal, there are no cracks, and it is not seperating from the long 3/8 pieces that run along the top and bottom on the inside of the stand. the bow seems about 3/8 of an inch. any help greatly appreciated, thanks.
 
Hey guys,

I fabricated a Ca Reactor lid and everything looks fine including the hole cuts for the bulkheads (not snug, not loose - just right) when I applied #16, it started to craze. Although they are not "real" cracks that go all the way top to bottom, I am wondering if this kind of stress can handle the pressure of a Calc Reactor? Thanks in advance!

pic here
thatscrazing.jpg
 
Drilling holes for the piping or bulkheads can overheat the acrylic, stressing it. When you add solvent (glue) it can craze.

I try to drill a little at a time, or if in a hurry, take it outside and run the hose on it while drilling.
 
Sorry to hijack-if this is not the appropriate place to post this question, pleas tell me where to go!:)
I am wondering if there is a glue that will absolutely bond acrylic euro braces to a glass tank. I have heard of Hextal, but I am not sure about its abilities with plastics
Thanks in advance
 
You may be better off looking up adhesive and sealant manufacturers, and calling them for information. It is reported that AGE uses UV curing resins to bond acrylic and PVC to glass, but I have not seen a trade name mentioned.

I have seen a company called Master Bond advertise in engineering magazines, but have not inquired with them.

If you find any more info, please do share!
Chris
 
Maybe a stupid question, probably off the wall, but, are there any issues with using 3M double sided (auto) tape on Acrylic. I'm looking to mount something on my tank with this tape and just wanted to make sure there won't be any type of reaction/problem.

Thanks!

Mike
 
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