Acrylic Scratch Specialist Needed: Westwood

[jumboshrimp18]

Have a 120 g. mezzo reef tank with a couple of shallow but annoying scratches. Tank is fully stocked and the scratches are insude. Will offer to pay a fair sum for a couple of hours work to someone who really knows what they are doing.
Westwood area.
PM or call 310.430.4400.
Tom

 

[jeffrey_ropp]

Check out: http://www.solterplastics.com/

I don't believe that they do any "on site" work however. If they can't do but somepne can, they'll probably know who.

I'm also looking to have some work done on a small running tank, so please pass on any info....

Cheers,
Jeff

 

[jumboshrimp18]

O.K. Will offer to pay a fair to good sum to someone for this help. Upped the ante by throwing a good in there. Surely there must be someone who does this work or knows somebody that does. If not, I may have found a calling for my new part-time trade--imagine there are lots of scratched acrylic tanks out there

 

[Kurt448]

Hey Tom, one of the guys that I work with is a pro at getting scratches out. We recently re-did an 800 gallon tank that had horrible scratches and he sat in the empty tank and got all the scratches out in about 4 hours. Not bad for that size of a tank.

Let me know if you are interested and I'll give you his contact info.

p.s. I finally read the whole Iwan thread last night. That prodibio stuff looks pretty interesting. I may just have to give it a try and see what happens, I'm not looking for amazing results, but who knows.

 

[Fmellish]

Is it possible to remove inside scratches while the tank is full? ANd what about dents?

I have a few nasty scratches that are very deep gouges/dents. This has happened in a few areas where I lost my grip on a large rock and it fell against the side and then slid down the side wall.

So I have tons of small scratches, but a few big ones too. I have a scratch removal kit, (several bottles of different substances), however can this be done with a full and stocked tank?

Just wondering.
Josh

 

[Kurt448]

Dents no...probably not. Scratches yes. There are abrasive pads that you can use that scale down in roughness until you get to a very fine polishing grade.

The kit you have wouldn't be suitable to use with water in the tank, as the abrasive chemicals would get in the water.

 

[Fmellish]

Thank you for the information

 

[rxdi]

Its easy to do, you can do it yourself. I machine acrylic all the time and have to take out scratches and cutter marks. Depending on the size of the scratch I usually start with 1000 grit silicon carbide wet/dry sand paper for small scratches of 600-800 grit for larger scratches. Sand the area till the scratch is gone. I use a lot of water on it and clean the sand paper every couple of passes. The area will be hazy. Then take a finer grit like 1200 or 1500 and do the same till the haze starts getting clearer. Then go to a finer grit 2000 and repeat. The final polish I usually use a vegetable oil and 2500 grit but water will be fine since your scratch is on the inside. If your nervous about doing it put a small scratch in the top bracing of your tank and practice up there. If you have any questions let me know.

 

[jumboshrimp18]

Kurt: Will give you a call for sure. I guess I forgot to ask you this very question the other day. Thanks.

Fmellish: Be sure to practice any application before trying it in your display tank. Lots of failed first attempts out there.

rxdi: Thanks for info. Whether I do it myself or not I appreciate knowing how its done. I understand it is quite time consuming. If you are still following this thread, could you tell me 1) how much pressure do you apply? 2) do you make small circular motions or long sweeping motions or does it matter? 3) If it is well done, do you end up with any cloudy or hazy area if you look closely?
Thanks

 

[Kurt448]

Hey Tom, I spoke to the guy I was speaking of today and he said he would be glad to do it if you would like him to contact you. I'm working with him on a job tomorrow so let me know.

I could probably answer your questions to rxdi for him...most people suggest you don't press too hard when sanding out the scratches. You are supposed to go in a single direction for each stage of the process...for example, first stage go up and down, second stage go side to side, third up and down...and so on. If done properly the acrylic should be as good as new with no haze whatsoever. HTH.

 

[jumboshrimp18]

Kurt: Yes, definitely. Please give him my number and ask him to call. BTW, if you are going to order some of the Prodibio products and would like to start now, swing by and pick up some vials if you want. You can give them back to me when yours come.

 

[Kurt448]

Thanks for the offer Tom...I'm still deliberating if I want to try it but I might take you up on that. I think I might try some of that coral vital solution as well as I have heard some good things. I am pretty pleased with my colors...just like toying with new stuff

Anyways I'll have him give you a ring tomorrow.

 

[Kurt448]

BTW have you seen any improvements since you started using it...or do you think your recent successes are mostly just a result of getting the excess nutrient/phosphate problems under control?

 

[jumboshrimp18]

I actually do think I see a improvement but as you know the tank was on an upward curve anyway so I am not entirely sure of the effect.

 

[rxdi]

1) how much pressure do you apply?
You'll need to apply some pressure at first to get the scratch to blend with the surrounding area, but kept the sanded area around the scratch as small as possible.

2) do you make small circular motions or long sweeping motions or does it matter?
I've found that its best to sand in passes going side to side in the same direction as the scratch on all the steps. Some areas when I don't have the ability to go side to side I've done circular motions and it comes out pretty good. You have to remember that the scratch is underwater and when water is on acrylic it will cover up fine scratch or a light haze.

3) If it is well done, do you end up with any cloudy or hazy area if you look closely?
If done right you can't see any cloudy or hazy area. I sand out complete display parts 1.5'x6"x 6" with many cut outs and angles, and you would think it was flame polished. That takes me a couple hours to do. A few scratches would take 10-15 minutes at the most.

I would say it would be best to try it yourself, because you never know when it will happen again.

 

[jumboshrimp18]

rxdi: thanks once again for the guidance and insight.

 

[jumboshrimp18]

rxdi: two last questions if your still around, 1) do you wrap the sand paper in anything to apply it, like a small wood block? 1) I imagine you buy large quantities of sand paper but can you recommend a good kit or way of ordering the sand paper you suggested? any difference in quality between manufactrers?

 

[rxdi]

1) do you wrap the sand paper in anything to apply it, like a small wood block?

When I'm doing a long flat area I use a 2"x3" steel block that I double-stick tape the sand paper too, but on a scratch I wrap a small piece of sand paper around my finger to control the small area that I'm working in. On your tank I think it would be easier for you to just wrap a small piece on your finger, this will make it easier to blend to the surronding area without having to work to hard. Just make sure the paper is wraped smoothly around your finger and dosn't come to any sharp points.

1) I imagine you buy large quantities of sand paper but can you recommend a good kit or way of ordering the sand paper you suggested? any difference in quality between manufactrers?

I usally just tell them what grit I want and they get it. I believe 3M (with the red backing paper)is the brand I most use. I've tried different manufacrers and they all work about the same. I'll double check the brands that I use at work and let you know.

You can get these finer grit 2500-1000 at most auto parts store. (its commanly used in color sanding cars)

 

[jumboshrimp18]

Thanks, RXDI

 

[Badmort]

Excellent advice...