Actuated valve - Mark II

There is another option for controlling the valve position 0-100%.

Since I run Arduino, I can use an acoustic or proximity sensor to determine how far the plunger has moved. That may be cheaper in the end, but I honestly haven't played around with it yet.

Need an Arduino guru to help get more of these projects completed this year.
 
This is more inline but much more complex

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I'm not sure it's worth it if the bar used in the original is a solid steel shaft.
 
That looks a little more compact which might get you some more side by side space. The 90 looks better but I am not sure if the curved handle is plastic and will turn into the weakest link. Personally I would feel better if the T didn't exist and it went straight into the plunger?
 
Have you checked how much bind those valves have under your potential load? Those actuators can probably open it, but will the rest survive them trying if its binding?

I think those handles are probably screwed on... i would remove it and put a nut coupling in its place for the control linkage. Then you just need a threaded L linkage instead of the T-L shape.

I'd probably sit the actuator with it's flat on the wide flat on the valve. That means the union can't be quite as close but it gives better support the the actuator. Reliability instead of neat packaging.
 
The actuator's bottom isn't flat, unfortunately. It looks that way and it really should be,but there are two semi sphere dimples in the bottom that stop it from sitting flat. It just rocks on a pivot point if I try.

I'm sure they serve an alignment function for some application, but it's just a pain for me.

I'll try to remove the plastic handle. I assumed it was made for this application and the actuator can lift my entire weight (albeit slowly)... I can't do that with one hand :)

I preferred the side by side because I could use a flat wooden piece to hold it all in position.

It does bind under pressure but it won't experience that kind of pressure in my surge... The laminar flow at 3-4"... That's another story.
 
I figured out how to post 3D designs!

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Ok. We decided to work with the original design, but used a cutting board thick plastic to cut out the exact size of the actuator and valve bases. Basically, I'm using the geometry of the valve plastic and actuator metal casing to lock them to the cutting board material. It's a tight fit, so they're basically pressure fitted. The zip tie just holds it down in place - no pressure on it.

Changed from wood to a short aluminium rod. Minimal deflection and pretty fast uptake.

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/A62C3528-E2BD-48ED-8750-C5D07F4F5FA4_zpshpiz44bg.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/A62C3528-E2BD-48ED-8750-C5D07F4F5FA4_zpshpiz44bg.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo A62C3528-E2BD-48ED-8750-C5D07F4F5FA4_zpshpiz44bg.jpg"/></a>

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Thanks. I've been running it in qualification & 'burn-in' testing for the last day or so. One cycle every 30seconds. So 2400 full open/close events so far and it's continuing to operate smoothly.

I think at about 5000 full cycles, I'll have the confidence to install it on my live system.
 
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