<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15749568#post15749568 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jtrasap
Obviously if you want to add a "ten inch fish", and not have an ammonia spike, due to the increase in bio-load, you will have to introduce enough nitrifying bacteria to take care of the added bio-load.
Now, it's your turn to tell us how you plan on doing this.
I have given a lot of clues.
Note that I stated that the 220 tank has an open loop return and a sump.
This is a typical way but you can change the details as you see fit:
In a separate container, as simple as a $10 plastic container from K-mart (must be odorless plastic), you can cycle a filter medium separately. You need some crushed oyster shell ($8 for 50 pounds), nylon pantyhose, a small powerhead and a hose.
You do not need live rock for this purpose. You can use crushed oyster shells wrapped in stretched out nylon. This is like balls the same size of very large oranges. You stack them up. You then just drip water over the balls and let it casade down. You then add bacteria seed and wastes. I say likely 3-5 ppm N ammonia three to five times for the whole cycle will do very nicely.
When the medium is done cycling after about five weeks, you can transfer it to the sump of the 220 tank, and you make sure that the return water drips on it.
If you are afraid that the water that you complete the cycle with is too dirty, loaded with nitrate or bad stuffs, you can first rinse it with tank water. All the good bacteria are in/on the medium, you won't lose much by rinsing it.
You make sure that the salinity of DT tank water and container water match before adding to the sump.
You will have NO ammonia whatsover for the tang.
In the coming months, you allow the nitrification bacteria to grow in the live rock of the 220. You can slowly remove one such ball at a time. Gradually, after a few months, the LR in the 220 will take over nitrification.