Addiction wins, 450 gallon system begins

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Yes please go into further detail about the baffles, AcroSteve (if you don't mind).

What happens if I've got a 10G I want to make baffles in and I only have 20" to use? Three Baffles 3" apart doesn't leave much room for anything else.

Thanks.
 
Lordhelmet said:
Id always read that 1 inch was a good starting point for sump baffles.

The amount of flow has a great deal to do with the effectiveness of the baffles. The bad thing is, once the sump is in place, it is not very practical to change the spacing if it does not work with the flow you have.

Better to be safe than sorry.

Personally, I am a little sorry that I did not research this before I built mine. Mine are about 2" apart and 16" tall. I still get many bubbles making the trip through them.

My gut feel is that baffles 1" apart and 16" wide will not handle much more than 1000 gph very well. With a small tank and pump, it should be fine.

The height is a factor as well. The taller the better.
 
WarEagleNR88 said:
Yes please go into further detail about the baffles, AcroSteve (if you don't mind).

What happens if I've got a 10G I want to make baffles in and I only have 20" to use? Three Baffles 3" apart doesn't leave much room for anything else.

Thanks.
I'm still learning here but I think it has to do with GPH and turn over. In a 10 gallon sump, turning over less water, the bubble still have time to dicapate with the baffles closer together, however, when a sump is running 2000-3000+ GPH, the bubbles have no time to escape as the flow rips them through the baffles and obviously into the return inlet.
 
ooops, sorry acrosteve, we must have hit the submit button second apart:)
 
Thanks secrest,

This whole process has been pretty exiting and I still don't have the tank here:)

Well all 447 lbs of base rock arrived today and it looks even better than in the pictures that Capt. Jer sent. Now I'm sitting here debating whether I should pile about 60 or so lbs of it in with the other rock I have in the 125 right now to give it a head start on the seeding process.... Hmmm any suggestions on that or should I just leave it in the boxes until this tank is up and begin seeding it all at once?
 
Hop said:
Thanks secrest,

This whole process has been pretty exiting and I still don't have the tank here:)

Well all 447 lbs of base rock arrived today and it looks even better than in the pictures that Capt. Jer sent. Now I'm sitting here debating whether I should pile about 60 or so lbs of it in with the other rock I have in the 125 right now to give it a head start on the seeding process.... Hmmm any suggestions on that or should I just leave it in the boxes until this tank is up and begin seeding it all at once?
Wow weird things happen when RC crashes. so I guess this is a re-post and a bump.
 
So the wider the baffles the better... Hmmm. I wanted to know this information since I'm thinking of adding on a 10G to my system to only contain my skimmer and heaters and of course bubbles may be a problem.

Thanks, keep it coming Hop!

WarEagle
 
Thanks WarEagleNR88,

I'm hoping that we can all use this thread as a good resource and the info by acrosteve is great.

So with the sump malfunction that occurred thusday night and the fact that the sump I ordered is 3-4 weeks out, I could not start the plumbing that I had on the itinerary for today. So I painted the wood inside the wetroom and painted the outside of the wetrrom. Not the most exciting process so far, but one that needed to get done. Next on the agenda is to clean the garage as the walking space is now down to a few little channels in between various projects and equipment boxes. Again not too exciting.

This evening I'm still debating about getting some of the base rock into the 125 for a head start on the seeding process, but I'm still debating on this one. I may just stack the boxes of rock up in the wetroom and run the electric wires from the wetroom under the house and roll them up near the fuse panel. I'm waiting for an electrician friend of mine to come and do the final inspection and hook up!
 
awesome!!!! so what do you have in mind for the aquascaping? canyon style like steve weast's, or towers like tanu's. i have a feelin gyour tank will be awesome, just spend time on the aquascaping!!!!
 
I just found this thread and I got to tell you, that planted 125 is totally awesome. If you can keep that tank stable, you will have no problem with a reef tank. Sure reefs are a bit more complex, but the planted tank is prone to serious pH swings and keeping it dialed in to a zone where the fish AND the plants are thriving is very difficult indeed. Great work!--Jonathan
 
Wow thanks for the intrerest in the tank rireefguy.

jnarowe: Thanks. The 125 was dismanteled in order to facilitate seeding of more rock, but I have all the same plant type in a 110 that I had in the office in order to set it back up down the road. This is what the 125 looked like the day I had to tear it down.
125.03.22.05.JPG

Don't be fooled there was still a bit of a hair algea problem, but it was managable;)

Hamachi: Thanks and the aquascape will reflect the general idea on the pics on the 1st page. There may be a little shift from that once things get going but the theme is three mounds with sand channels in between.

Thanks TheCoralReef731, I hope you are speaking about the one in progress and not the sump that I destroyed:D
 
Yeah, hair algae can be tough because when you trim down the plants to remove it, then there are less plants to take up nutrients, and you get a second wicked wave of algae. I have snails in mine that love brush algae, so that's a plus. I have semingly dealt with hair algae in that I am much more careful about nutrient (nitrates, phosphates, etc.) produced by fish and put in in the form of supplements.

I had a terrible time with phosphates and started using a buffer, only to find out that the buffer had a lot of phosphates in it. "Safe for All Fish and Plants" my ***. Anyway, I put an hour light break in the middle of the day and switched to RO/DI water. Algae have a hard time ramping up photosysnthesis and plants don't, so puting in a break disrupts algae growth but not the plants'. My well water was highly filtered but still had phosphates and nitrates. Switching to RO/DI and adding back in the correct amount of hardness/salts seems to be working well. I have a 9"+ Pleco who is very sensitive so I know immediately if there is a problem. My CO2 was on the blink and the pH skyrocketed, and this was easily evident by the Pleco's coloration. Like a canary in the tank!

I really like how your FWP is aquascaped. Mine is similar except I put in some larger river rock and less wood. I also have a couple of red plants that help break up the green a bit. One I got from Wal-Mart (shudder) that looked like some kind of tuber. It has red leaves and sends shoots to the surface with a red leaf at the surface. The gourami likes to hover under them sometimes. What I like about planted tanks is practice for reefs. But in a planted tank, if you screw up, you just cut the plants back and they grow again. It's cool to see new advantageous shoots etc. and that's just a hint of what it's like to have a healthy reef.

I know it may be late in the game, but have you thought about using some TBS rock? You are going "big-time" and that stuff sure produces results. MY local LFS is selling a variety of "live" rock all for $6 - $8 per lb. and it's nothing like the TBS stuff.

As far as overflow, check out:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=588249

This a great overflow but...Now my question for you is, what happens when something like hair algae, dead fish, etc. gets stuck in the tangs of the overflow? How do you get it out? What about coralline algae? That will grow and cover the back of the tank if you are doing a good job. How do you keep the underside of the brace near the overflow clean? It will surely get scum on it right? On this one, there is no center brace, because he used very thick plastic.

I would suggest that you use an overflow as seen in the 4th picture down, with no tangs, and build the upper lip around the tank but not across the overflow. Then use a device like this:

http://www.aqua-medic.com/products/filteraccessories/overflowcomb.shtml

It's removable, cleanable, replaceable...you can line up 3 or 4 on the back of a big tank...and you or I could probably make it if we needed to.

Just some food for thought.--J
 
jnarowe,

Thanks for the info. The external overflow will be built into the tank by James at Envision. In essence it's still part of the tank, but doesn't take up any of the 96X30X30 footprint. I tried to look up exactly what it looks like, but the server volume is too high here on RC right now. If you get the chance check out a tank by Fursphere. I basically took the idea from his tank and it will be about the same with 2, 1 1/2" drains. Going to use a stockman design! It's real close to the idea on the 1st link you posted.

As far os the planted tank goes I lived by the estimative dosing routine and subscribbed to the Barr Report. After I followed his advised my problems went down to very managable levels. When I set the 125 back up as planted, I will howver, be skipping MH lighting. I'm going to switch over to PC and keep the color a little closer to white and slow the growth. With nearly 5 wpg if I missed one day of dosing, I knew it!
 
HAMACHI said:
thats the nicest planted tank i have EVER seen!!!! waikiki aquarium should bow down at your knees!
Wow thanks HAMACHI! I subscribe to a couple planted sites as well and my 125 was just so-so as compared to some of the people's there. I like Amano's works, but I wanted something that was closer to the real habitat, rather that "becuase it's artsie" feel.


And thanks again Nuhtty, It will be up and running again hopefully around Christmas. I wanted to change out some substrate and get a strong foreground going anyways. Pluse the Hygro was a monster of a plant and needed to be pruned every few days
:(
 
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