Addiction wins, 450 gallon system begins

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Impressive light rack. I wouldn't have a clue about building something like that so super jealous. What MH bulbs you using and which ballasts?
 
melev said:
Very nice. It looks like they are running pretty high off the tank at the moment. How low do you plan to set them at?

Ahhh. See I knew you would spot my Faux-pa. I have to move one of the OM returns. I ran out of 90s when I was plumbing it, and I tried a double 45 trick and the lightrack, just hits it. So after I fix that, the bulbs will be quite a bit lower. I planning 6-9" off the water surface:lol:

NexDog: The rack was actually pretty easy to build. I found out that I do need to brace it better and thats on the agenda for today. It's just aluminum (8' 3/4" angle and 1" flatstock) and I used a tape measure, drill, hacksaw and a pop rivit gun. It took about two hours to build, but most of that was just figuring. The reflectors are then just screwed to the rack, that makes it look better.
I wish I could say that it took hours utilizing a plasma tourch and a tig welder, but sadley just hand tools
:rolleyes:
 
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NexDog: Sorry, missed the rest.

Currently I'm running XM 10K or thats what I have. Then I have three Coralife 175 watt mag. ballasts. I know these are dinosaurs, but I've had them sitting around for a while and they have never failed to fire or given me fits in five years of service.

And I know the SPS guys are going to freak about a 30" tank and 175 watt MH, but it's a mixed reef and I'm only going to be running sps down 15" or less and under the MH, not the bottom. If I change my mind later, its a simple project to up the ballasts/bulbs:D
 
To make my light rack stronger, I used 1" square tube stock. That provides the rigidity required to keep everything true.

:)
 
melev said:
To make my light rack stronger, I used 1" square tube stock. That provides the rigidity required to keep everything true.

:)

Aye, That would most likely have been the best, but living in farm country I couldn't find anything over 5' in lenth. So I had to talk to a helper, 300 miles away while he walked through Home Depot and engineer this thing in my head as he stumbled upon things. I thought the 3/4 would be strong enough with the light weight of everyting, but I get a little sagging in the middle. I'm going to add a center strap to support a little weight. Plans are in the future to put in on pulleys, but for now I'm using powder coated chain and small carabeaners (spelling...early...no brain).
 
Not much to report today. Didn't get as much done as I wanted, as I'm fighting a cold and it's the night before my daughter's birthday, so we have house guests and tonight is the big "family reunion dinner.

I did get some more painting done and am in the process of fixing a few things on the light rack. I really needed to reclaim some floor space in the garage, so I moved the rock into the house. Here is a pic of the first aquascape. I still have about 100# of live rock seeding in the 125, so that will be added to what you see here.
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The more I look at this, the more is grows on me. Definately some open swiming space, places to hide, places for coral and envisioning it with coraline helps.
 
Whew spelling gets worse as headcold progresses. LOL

Well everything went really well on a full system wet-run over night. I did find a small leak in my 2" going to the wetroom that I need to fix. So if everything goes well I should be making RO/DI for the fill tomorrow:D

On a side note I wound up ordering a new skimmer pump. I got a blue line heading this way.

A few more days of work!!!
 
Hop, I would like to make a suggestion - which you can just file away for when you have the inclination. In the past, I've seen acrylic tanks crack on the top piece, or near the edge seam. Typically we blame our lighting beause of the heat coming off of the bulbs.

If you can fabricate some extra pieces of acrylic to act like a baffle or shield, these can be placed on the top of the tank to act as a heat shied to take the brunt of the heat. If they become damaged, dispose of them and replace them with new pieces. Your tank should remain safe and sound.

What I'm suggesting is to use 1/4" acrylic, and place (glue) something beneath the acrylic to act like ribs. (Man, a picture would be great right about now!) By creating a fake top (in segments) that matches the current top of your tank, it shouldn't be in your way. The reaons for the ribs is to lift it up and allow the hot air to vent out instead of transferring the heat into the top panel of your tank. The gap can be very small, as little as 1/4" would be fine.

If none of this makes sense, let me know. And I didn't post this to make you paranoid. ;)
 
Thanks melev. I had read about the problem, but don't remember if I had found a solution. I think I can picture exactly what you described. I was going to sit down tonight and actually write out a checklist of things that need to get done before livestock is added and a list for things to do. I will most definitely get this on the to do list. I think I may have to build the cover as you suggested in two or three pieces, but I think it would still be as efficient.

Speaking of to do lists, does anyone own an Aguacontroller programming book for dummies? Man I'm looking at this thing and may need a little show and tell. The programming language and my brain need some type of emulator!
 
You'd think I'd put together a page showing how I enter the data on mine. A computer is far easier to use, but I've never tried to connect one to mine.

The up and down arrows get a workout during the programming, there is no doubt about it. And then you have to find that darn "exit" option in each submenu.
 
LOL, I here ya. I weighed what I wanted to do vs. price vs. options and decided that I didnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t need anything more than the Jr., so no computer programming for me. I cracked that thing open and started reading the directions... I don't remember the greater than less than symbols. Man I felt stupid initially... Which way does the thing point again, I thought to myself... And then the if XXX then XXX. I finally set the instruction down and grabbed more caffeine:)
 
Thanks melev. I'm going to start playing with the programming here in the next few days.

I did manage to get some stuff done today. Actually it was quite productive and have even begun to fill the tank with RO/DI water. After a few hours it's got almost three whole inches:) Too bad most of that is displaced by rock and sand. LOL
Also I got the AC, American DJ and balasts mounted. I got some more painting done and the lightrack fixed and reinstalled.

It's hard to believe that it's so close to actually being up, running and filled with SW :D
 
Just passing time while filling the tank and figuring out the programming for the AC. Decided to work on the white balance on my camera and play around a bit. I still think pics are a little blue, but it's hard to tell after looking at the URI actinics:D
tnkfl1.JPG

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tnkfl3.JPG
 
Purple over here too...LOL. Good way to spend a little time.

Tell me something: Why are you filling it with RO water rather than salt water? Is it just to save time, or is there some technical reason? I figured I would mix 100g batches and then transfer to my tank.

Also, does it say anywhere in the Jr. instructions that it can be used withh a wireless adapter? I want my system to communicate with my network so any alarms etc. will be heard in other parts of the house.--J
 
salty65gal: Thanks, but really the tank is just a mix of what I have seen here in RC. Trying to get the mix between the tanks I admire, with the dream I envisioned.

DerekW: AH YOUR RIGHT... They are a little purple looking today. LOL. Beleive me though, they are BLUE!

jnarowe: You know I'm not really certain, it's just the way I've always done it on an initial fill. I fill it with RO/DI, getting the system running and up to temp, then add some micron filters to polish everything while I add the salt. I'm not sure whether there is better or worse ways, I have just done it this way without much thought:)

On the AC Jr, I don't think so. The rest of the line I'm sure you could dial in as they are compatible with your PC and have more connection options, but I really just wanted temp control and Ph monitoring. When I started adding up the costs, the Jr was cheaper than monitors and timers. I got the basic programing down last night, but am still working on fine tuning some settings such as when the temp gets too high, shutting lights off and then setting the delay times for the lights to return back on in sequence. Otherwise It hasn't been as tough as I thought it would be.
 
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