Adjusting a Seaclone 100 skimmer

R

Ronny#66

New member
Well seems no mater what I doI always have a ? on what I'm doing. Maybe I won't get critisized For not takeing all the advise given here. So here it is as sugested here Iinstalled the Seaclone 100 on my 25 gallon kinda large for this tank but it was brand new in box. I adjusted air intake so water level in skimmer is up to the bottom of colection cup where direction say to have it . This is 100 - 110 GPH . I have so many micro bubles can't hardly see into tank . Keeping air flow adjusted to keep water level at bottom of colection cup lower neck causes the intake tube from power head that goes to bottom of skimmer intake to be full of micro bubbles. This also causes scimmer chamber to be full too . If I decrease air intake tube from power head and intake tube clears up but water rises up above level where thay say to keep it at bottom of colection cup. So Is this intake tube suposed to be full of bubles ? Should I decrease air flo till bubbles disapear in this tube ? So any advise on this. Also I have to be on road tomorrow and manufacture says it may take a few days for this skimmer to break in and start producing. My wife knows nothing about adjusting anything. Could this thing overflo before I get back in a few days. Boy this hobby tough when you can't be home everyday.

Ronny
 
By intake tube do you mean the lower portion of the skimmer. IF yes than it is supposed to have bubbles. SKimmers can take a few days to break in. They need time to adjust to the water, plus if your tank hasnt been running with a skimmer there is gonna be alot of stuff to pull out. SO over the next 2-3 days your going to see the foam in the collection cup rise and fall. If your going to leave it there at least show your wife how to shut if off in case it overflows. I would set the bubbles very low for now.
The micro bubbles will get a little better when it breaks in but they are not going to go away. You may need to make something to stop them from entering the tank.
 
Ya the tube that goes from bottom of skimmer to the power head located in tank .The power head pumps water through what they call a J tube atatched to bottom of skimmer. If I cut back the air J tube has no bubles. If I increase air adjustment this tube becomes foamy white and skimmer chamber full and they flow out into tank. Going to be dificult to make something to stop them . First Ineed to get it adjusted corectly if I don't already have it right.

Ronny
 
I am running the seaclown on my 30gal, it is not way over rated for your 25gal as I fell seaclown overrated there skimmer. You are going to give that skimmer atleast a week or to for it to break in. I would highly suggest taking the air adjuster valve that comes with the skimmer and throw it away, replace it with one that will be more percise to adjust. I used a air adjuster off an old penguin power head I had, the skimmer worked 100% better and I didn't have to fool with it every 10 seconds. I belive you can also go to Lowes/homedepot and find one. Here is how I set the air, 1. completly open air valve till you will notice an air pocket in the U tube that goes over the top of tank. 2. Slowly close air vale till that air pocket gets sucked down the tube and leave it alone. Thats all I do and I am prettty pleased with the results of the seaclown, I get so much dark foam that it will acctually start to rise out the vent hole in the lid of the collection cup. As far as micro bubbles, it will get better over time but I still get them in the tank just not bad enough to bother me. Also if you use anykind of gel like additives such as "stresscoat" it will send the skimmer crazy with bubbles. There are also so many different modifacations you can do to a seaclown but I found just changing that junky air valve it comes with makes a world of difference. If you would like send me a PM and I can email you a pic of the air valve I am useing, I haven't figured out how to post pics on this forum yet
 
+1 Firebird. All open, then slowly close it down til the bubble in the j tube flushes thru. Mirco bubbles- ARRRRGGG!- Flash back- Post Seaclone Stress Syndrom! It gets a tad better as it breaks in, but it's always gonna have some. I used to ziptie a chunk of filter floss over the return chute as a bubble trap. Helped, but have to replace alot. Make sure your wife knows how to empty the cup, as it might need it before you get back.
 
When I open valve that comes with unit I get all white bubles in Jtube and all white in skimmer chamber from bottom to top. Can't get a air buble as I turn valve all air bubles in J tube get sucked down and tube becomes clear with non airated water. Also skimmer becomes clear. So what is correct operation ? All white with airated water or full of clear water so you can see the vortex.

Ronny
 
Anyone got pic of one of these thing running correctly so I can see what flow though piping and unit looks like. i can set it but don't know what it should look like.

Ronny
 
from another site:


This is for any one that has one of these crappy skimmers. I just did all these mods and actually am very pleased with the results. To begin with save your money and invest in a better skinner but if you have one, these mods are good.

Introduction
The Seaclone is not that bad of a skimmer. Considering its price and power consumption it is one of the better low-end models. Many reefers say it is useless and doesn't skim (if at all) as much as their Turboflotor,etc but that's like comparing apples to oranges. This is an unfair comparison since the Seaclone only uses a Maxi-Jet 1200 for both water flow and bubble generation and is about 1/4 the cost.

In an effort to avoid any confusion the terminology used in this write-up is as follows. The inner tube is the 1" diameter riser at the centre of the skimmer. The intermediate tube is the 2-3/4" +/- diameter tube that separates the reaction chamber from the outflow channel.

The Basic Tasks of Modification
There are three basic tasks that can individually enhance a Seaclone's performance.
1) Replace the stock air flow adjustment end cap and replace with a air adjustment valve. The air flow adjustment endcap that the Seaclone comes with is the item that frustrates many hobbyists. It is not meant to be used the way it needs to be and is obviously a cost saving measure by the manufacturer. Opened too wide the Maxi-Jet generates too much bubbles and inadequate flowrate. There is also a point where too much air will decrease the suction of the water pump hence reducing both the water flow rate and bubble generation to nearly zero. Don't open the cap enough and the water flow becomes too high and flushes the bubbles down to the outflow channel and into your display tank. Hence a good air adjustment valve is needed to control the bubble generation and water flow rate.



2) Reduce the inner most riser tube's length to approximately 2-1/2" to 3" in length. This can be accomplished by pulling out the inner tube with a pair of needle nose pliers after you have gently rock the tube back and forth with your fingers. It should come loose without breaking. Take your time with this task because if you do break the inner tube you will have a very tough time clearing the base of broken acrylic. Unless you have very small hands that can fit in the skimmer. Reaction time is one of the main factors in protein skimming and the stock Seaclone has very little of this. The inner tube extends too high and is too narrow in diameter offering very little bubble and water mixing and contact time. Cutting this inner tube down in length effectively utililizes the volume of the intermediate tube as a reaction chamber. The intermediate tube has a much larger diameter hence cross sectional area and inversely the flow rate. The flow of water through the reaction chamber is greatly reduced, allowing for a greater contact time.



3) Seal the base of the collection cup to the top of the intermediate tube. The simplest method I came up with is by taking a plain old rubber glove and cutting the fingers off. Then rolling the glove to form a O-ring shape. A portion of the air from the bubble generation does not exit the skimmer via the foam collection cup. Sealing the base of the cup to the top flange of the intermediate tube forces all the air to flow through the cup. This increased air flow helps push the foam up to be collected.


Another Modification Worth Considering

Reduce the height of the riser tube in the collection cup. The skimmate that the Seaclone generates is quite dark when compared to that produced by high-end skimmers. The main reason for this is the difference in height between the water column/foam interface and the top of the skimmate overflow tube in the collection cup. This distance is far too much for the foam to travel for this low power skimmer. The Maxi-Jet simply doesn't generate enough foam and air to blow the skimmate up such a tall dry column. I way that I did this was with a hand held cutting tool(Dremal). You have to do this slow as there is no guide availible to help cut it. Also the acrylic will heat up and melt on the cutting blade. Take your time with this step. I cut about a 1/2" off. Since making these modifications I have had to empty the collection once and it has not even been 24hrs since I modified it.
 
As much air as you can run thru it without getting a pocket of air in the top of the j tube. White and cloudy is what you want. Takes a bit to start forming good foam (skimmate) and it will darken to a brown/dark brown in the collection cup over the next couple of days as it breaks in.
In summary, more air = less thru flow of water=less micro bubbles and darker foam. Happy tuning.
 
Thanks for mod info I just want to get it adjusted as is right now. Is it suposed to be all micro bubbles in J tube all the way to inside of chamber ?
 
Yes, for now the more bubbles in the j tube (and skimmer body) the better as long as you don't form a pocket of air in the top of the j tube.
 
I'm not getting any foam at all just a little white at top of skimmer chamber where cup fits in . Nothing in cup what little foam thereis just barely touches the bottom neck of cup. Why is there a break in period. What is happening not to have it start skimming noticably right away. Its been hooked up since 10:00 am this morning. Its rated up to 100 gal tank is this going to affect performance on my 25 gal ?

Ronny
 
HrlyRydr:
I'm going to get one of those valves .I'm getting good white and cloudy in j tube no foam what so ever Horendous amout of micro bubled in tank looks like Heck !

Ronny
 
How long does it take for this skimmer to start producing some foam been fooling wth air flow all day. Still haven't seen any improvement.

Ronny
 
I run what you've had for years on my 90 gal tank. I need a new one that is bigger. I use the air intake that it cam with. What I do is close it all the way down, turn it half a turnn so it is straight up and then turn it a quarter turn. 3/4 of a turn all together. Them I back it up a little, I know what sound i makes when it is running good. Sorry but this will come with experience. I don't turn it more than a hair or two.

Once it is set i don't touch it. I clean out the cup and scrub it once a week. I clean out the air line when I see salt build up in it. When I do this I pull off the air intake and don't touch it. I then wash out the line in warm water. I put the line bach in the skimmer and put my finger over the over the line to get full water flow through the skimmer, them I put the air regulater back on the the line.

I pull about a half a cup of coffee color a week. This would be great for your tank. I need something bigger. An Aqua C. Come on state tax return. Hope this helps. It will take a few days to breake in.
 
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