Advice on transferring from one tank to another
- Thread starter MiaCoral
- Start date
I did not too long ago and all I can say is that it will take way way longer than u plan for. I actually switched from crushed coral to sand when I switched tanks so I'm not really going to be much help. Definitely make sure u have plenty of buckets for all you fish and corals, some powerheads to keep water flowing. I used about a 50/50 blend of new water and old water. If I were you I would wait for the experts to chime in, cause I'm sure I just got real lucky, and I don't have a lot of corals. Good luck it's a pain but worth it I the long run
marrero412002
New member
I was just about to ask this question i will wait for the pros to comment.
tropills
Member
Tank water IMO holds no real benefits .. the sand and rock is the main filter of a reef system.. a Few weeks ago (5) when I transferred over to my 600+ system from a 60 gallon. I used all new water and sand.. granted I had over 800 pounds of cycled rock .. but I went from a brand new system to a FULL reef with 20+ fish and tons of coral and have had no ill effects .. so I guess what I'm saying is yes its fine to start with all new water.
MiaCoral
New member
What i was thinking of doing was setting up the new tank near the old one ( my house layout allows for this and for the tank to be in a good spot i like still ). Get new sand ( i want to switch from white to black) make new water and use my cycled live rock from my 29 gallon. Would this be ok?
I wouldn't get too worked up about it. I've moved my 75 gallon four times now and I'm getting really good at it. I always tried to take as much water with me but after filling buckets with livestock I only end up with 20 gallons to reuse. I would put rock and coral in buckets and just cover them with water. Get the old tank out of there, set up the new, fill it with whatever extra water you have which I'm guessing you wont have much, add remaining mixed water (have it ready before you start taking the other tank down if you can) getting that rock in closely followed by the coral.
I find that a tank move is a perfect time to get rid of that old substrate. When you put it in is all up to you. Last time I waited a week or so and then put the substrate in. If I were to do it again with brand new aragonite I would probably scoop it in a few cups each day.
I've never lost a thing on a tank move.
I find that a tank move is a perfect time to get rid of that old substrate. When you put it in is all up to you. Last time I waited a week or so and then put the substrate in. If I were to do it again with brand new aragonite I would probably scoop it in a few cups each day.
I've never lost a thing on a tank move.
Krypt1979
New member
I would recommend using new sand and a few cups of the old sand for seeding. Believe it or not, your sand houses a HUGE amount of life. A tank transfer will severely disrupt the sand creatures and can cause die off. That'll free up nutrients, can cause algae blooms, dino, and other nasty PIA stuff.
By starting fresh and then seeding with a few cups of the old, the die off won't be nearly as severe and the sand crawlers will repopulate in due time.
By starting fresh and then seeding with a few cups of the old, the die off won't be nearly as severe and the sand crawlers will repopulate in due time.
When I transferred from my 30 to my current 55 I first filled my new aquarium about 2/3 full of new water. Next I placed my rock in the new aquarium, directly on the glass. Next step for me was placing new sand on the bottom around the rock to stabilize it (I switched from crushed coral to sand). I then added enough tank water to be able to run filtration and then did so until the water was relatively clear. The new aragonite, despite being fairly well rinsed, still clouded the water somewhat. As the water was clearing I transferred my corals, etc. Once the water was clear enough I transferred the fish.
I would highly recommend having several buckets filled with 1 1/2 to 2 gallons of RO/DI water to use for rinsing any new sand you are going to add to your new system.
I would highly recommend having several buckets filled with 1 1/2 to 2 gallons of RO/DI water to use for rinsing any new sand you are going to add to your new system.
Jetersyanks
New member
I just recently changed from a 30 gal to a 60 I put in the sand that I bought and scooped out about 70% of my old sand then added the new water then the live rock. Then I let the sand settle after that I took out 80% of the water added my live stock and that's about it .... def time consuming tho
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
bribe the spouse to do it
Lol another solid plan. However has potential to backfire. When I did my move, the Mrs swore up and down she would 'help' When I finished in wee hours of the morning it occurred to me that her ' help' consisted of simply pointing to the open spot on wall and saying to put there 
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
heh heh
heh heh
she was warming the bed for you.
Sometimes NO help is the BEST help!
In all seriousness, when doing an aquarium transfer allow extra time for the task. Maybe it's best to have NOBODY ELSE AROUND.
(I tend to curse under my breath during these types of things)
heh heh
she was warming the bed for you.
Sometimes NO help is the BEST help!
In all seriousness, when doing an aquarium transfer allow extra time for the task. Maybe it's best to have NOBODY ELSE AROUND.
(I tend to curse under my breath during these types of things)
New sand old sand?
New sand is dusty. It may clump . It also adds new nuecleation sites for precipitation( ie fresh calcium carbonate crystal surfaces) early on. It has no biofilm. Some of it may dissolve giving an early boost to calcium and alkalinity. Best method I've heard is a thorough rinse and a week long soak in aerated tank water to allow a biofilm to develop before use in a display.
Old sand, Is covered with organics .They decay when you shift layers as occurs when moving it and bury them. They can release all sorts of nasties( heavy metals, phospahte etc.) they may be holding when they are moved to deeper areas where localized low oxygen acidic conditions can prevail. The buried organics may also lead to SO4 reducing bacterial activity and noxious/ hydrogen sulfide formation. IMO, it's better not to reuse it except for a thin seeding layer sprinkled on top of the new sand ;unless ,it is thoroughly cleansed with a bleach solution, then ,thoroughly rinsed and dechlorinated.
Sand or other substrate ,rock ornaments etc. used in a tank treated with copper meds or exposure to other heavy metals should not be reused in a reef tank.
New sand is dusty. It may clump . It also adds new nuecleation sites for precipitation( ie fresh calcium carbonate crystal surfaces) early on. It has no biofilm. Some of it may dissolve giving an early boost to calcium and alkalinity. Best method I've heard is a thorough rinse and a week long soak in aerated tank water to allow a biofilm to develop before use in a display.
Old sand, Is covered with organics .They decay when you shift layers as occurs when moving it and bury them. They can release all sorts of nasties( heavy metals, phospahte etc.) they may be holding when they are moved to deeper areas where localized low oxygen acidic conditions can prevail. The buried organics may also lead to SO4 reducing bacterial activity and noxious/ hydrogen sulfide formation. IMO, it's better not to reuse it except for a thin seeding layer sprinkled on top of the new sand ;unless ,it is thoroughly cleansed with a bleach solution, then ,thoroughly rinsed and dechlorinated.
Sand or other substrate ,rock ornaments etc. used in a tank treated with copper meds or exposure to other heavy metals should not be reused in a reef tank.
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New water / old water
Old water isn't needed for the nitrogen cycle. The bacteia are benthic( surface dwellers).
Old water has been processed ; amines and ammonia common in slat mixes are gone, metals and other trace impurities are bound to organics and major and minor ions are at levels to which tank inhabitants are accustomed.
New water contains impruities and may vary in some critical parametes ;care in mixing and matching the old water levels in
H, termperature, alk, calcium ,magnesium is important particularly when changing a large volume. Aerating new water overnight and testing it to ensure complete salt mixing/ dissloving andsome metals to bind to organics in the salt mix( many include them) is particularly important when large volume change is undertaken.
Personally, I'd use as much clean old water in the new tank as possible and mix in aged new water carefully matched for the rest. Unless, teh oldtank harbors parasites like crytocaryon irritans.
Old water isn't needed for the nitrogen cycle. The bacteia are benthic( surface dwellers).
Old water has been processed ; amines and ammonia common in slat mixes are gone, metals and other trace impurities are bound to organics and major and minor ions are at levels to which tank inhabitants are accustomed.
New water contains impruities and may vary in some critical parametes ;care in mixing and matching the old water levels in
H, termperature, alk, calcium ,magnesium is important particularly when changing a large volume. Aerating new water overnight and testing it to ensure complete salt mixing/ dissloving andsome metals to bind to organics in the salt mix( many include them) is particularly important when large volume change is undertaken.Personally, I'd use as much clean old water in the new tank as possible and mix in aged new water carefully matched for the rest. Unless, teh oldtank harbors parasites like crytocaryon irritans.
Placing rock.
Putting rock on top of sand gives you an ustable structure. On the other hand , burying live rock under sand buries organic matter which often leads to sulfate reducing bacteia and the production of sufidcs and toxic hydrogen sufide. This is why buried rock often has dark black stains on it.
With a deeper sand bed, I prefer to use pvc or palstic supports for the rock structrue base.This avoids burying much rock and procides a stable e base.
Putting rock on top of sand gives you an ustable structure. On the other hand , burying live rock under sand buries organic matter which often leads to sulfate reducing bacteia and the production of sufidcs and toxic hydrogen sufide. This is why buried rock often has dark black stains on it.
With a deeper sand bed, I prefer to use pvc or palstic supports for the rock structrue base.This avoids burying much rock and procides a stable e base.
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