AEFW new info and photos

mark - I am not sure what the exact difference is but if you look earlier in the thread, herositaly was stating that they use betadine in Italy and he gives the dose - this would be easier for most people as I think you can get betadine at almost any pharmacy and I would think that it would be cheaper than lugols
 
From wiki - Betadine is a povidone-iodine solution (povidone is a water-soluble polymer made from the monomer N-vinyl pyrrolidone). Most over-the-counter solutions are 10% povidone-iodine. Lugol's consists of 5% iodine (I2) and 10% potassium iodide (KI) in distilled water with total iodine content of 130 mg/mL.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7590319#post7590319 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SERVO
This dormant period really freaks me out! 45 days! Ouch. This can make it almost impossible to determine where your problems have come from. :eek1:

Not really a dormant period, just taking them that long to multiply and spread to the point where they are doing visible damage. It has been noted that by the time you see the damage it is usually well into the "game", so to speak. :(
 
Any new updates?

I am going to wait to treat in QT until after the 4th of July holiday as I am on vacation and don't have anyone to watch the QT tank for 6 days. The evaporation happens fast on the 10 gallon and I don't have a auto top-off system for it.

Any, any recommendations on the acro crab question I posted abover? Can they be removed for the dip and then go back on the Acro's in QT? I want to keep as many as I can.

Sara
 
Sara,

I was hoping someone else would chime in about the crabs, because unfortuately all I have to offer in answer is : I have never been able to keep them alive. They either stuck with teh acro and died from the treatment/QT or I was able to safely get them off (without damaging or killing them) and they died away from the acro for so long (while the acro was in QT, getting repeated dips).

Not exactly the answer you wanted, I know, but I hope it helps
 
I re-dipped my coral today ... the one that I found AEFW's on last Friday and is pictured above. I used the Tropic Marin Coral Cure again and found another 5 or 6 flat worms in various sizes. They again were the more clear ones and they have a darker colored Y on what I call the head end of the worm. I only have a 30x magnifying glass but I was able to locate some what I call black specks that were moving on the coral. I took a toothbrush and got them off, but I am not sure what these were. I have still not been able to locate any eggs, but they must be somewhere. I just hope the coral can hang on until a full QT treatment.

Sara
 
Since my pump mechanism is broke on the bottle, I am not really sure. They die in about 10 minutes though. Looks like a bit weak coffee in a white mug. There's a photo above ... the entire color is the darker of the photo.

Sara
 
Betadine update!!!

Its been over a week now since I dipped the SPS. I have not lost one and they all are looking perfect. The color has returned and the polyps are fully extended. I just finished dipping a couple of them, and not an AEFW. One does have some eggs that I could not get to, so I thought I would watch it from the first dip. It looks like they are all still there. Dead. I dont know. I will keep this updated for any changes or until next weekends dips!!!

Can someone else try this to see if they have the same results.

As for red bugs. No clue since I don't have them. And really dont want them!!\
 
badbones - I would be willing to try it on 2 my of acro's that have AEFW, just not all of my colonies. I can locate this at the local drugstore like Walgreens or Osco?

Sara
 
I bought it at the grocery store right off the shelf. So I bet you can get it anywhere. I would suggest use the name brand and not generic since when I compaired the labels, the generic had some other stuff in it. I am not an RX so have no idea if it would make a difference.

Good luck and I hope it works for you too. I would not do colonies either yet until this proves to work well. But signs are great that it will. Keep us posted if you do it!!!
 
I was screwing around last night with the stuff, throwing what ever I could find in it. Wll it killed all mysis, copepods,starfish. I threw in a couple 3" bristle worms and after 20mins they were still alive and squirming. I left them in there over night and by morning the water cleared and they were still alive. I guess the cockroach of the sea.

I am kinda disapointed as I was hoping it will kill everything. So far it has killed the AEFW.

Does the TMPCC kill bristle worms?? Just curious
 
Yes, the TMPCC does kill bristle worms. Both dips on the above coral had a bristle worm hiding in the plug and it killed them as well.
 
Sara,

were they large ones or small?? I wonder if that makes a difference. I am going to try and find some small ones and see if that works
 
I found this study doing a search on Google.
Control of Predacious Flatworms Macrostomum sp. in Culturing Juvenile Freshwater Mussels

Lora L. Zimmerman and Richard J. Neves

Virginia Cooperative Fish and Wildlife Research Unit,1 U.S. Geological Survey, Department of Fisheries and Wildlife Sciences, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Blacksburg, Virginia 24061-0321, USA

Doug G. Smith

Department of Biology, University of Massachusetts, Amherst, Massachusetts 01003-5810, USA

Abstract.â€"Flatworms of the genus Macrostomum are voracious predators on newly metamorphosed juvenile freshwater mussels (Unionidae), which require a fish host to transform mussel larvae into free-living juveniles. Toxicity tests were performed with formalin (paracide-F, 37% formaldehyde) to determine the appropriate levels of treatment for eradicating these flatworms from host fish tanks without adversely affecting the culture of juvenile mussels. Results indicate that a 1-h shock treatment of 250 mg/L formalin or a 3-d continuous exposure to 20 mg/L of formalin kills adult Macrostomum but not fish. Observations indicate that a single treatment is insufficient to kill Macrostomum eggs, so a second treatment after 3 d is necessary to kill newly hatched flatworms. Newly metamorphosed freshwater mussels exposed to similar shock and continuous treatments of formalin were also killed. Thus, all host fish introduced for the purpose of mussel production should be quarantined and treated prophylactically to avoid the infestation of mussel culture systems with predacious flatworms.

Received: February 28, 2002; Accepted: July 1, 2002
 
badbones - They were smaller bristle worms ... an inch and under sizes.

I also came home from the weekend to a completely white coral last night. The coral that I had ID'ed the AEFW's gave up its fight. The only piece I have left that is showing current AEFW damage is just a 1" frag. I found the Betadine at Osco today for $17.50, but I did not purchase it as I have nothing to try it on. I am going to start my QT tank and the first treatment on Wednesday with Levamisole as I found someone to do top-off's over the holiday weekend. Wish me luck!
 
You'll be hating life and cusing at some point, but find the happy place;). The first five hours are the easy part. The swishing and transfering and equipment cleaning, etc., is what gets ya;). Good luck with it Sara. Just don't try to rush anything. I have seen no signs of AEFW since I did it. It has only been around three months ago, though.
 
gflat65 - At least I have been partly broke-in with doing the 3 wks in QT with Red Bugs. For the AEFW, how long did you leave the acro's in Levamisole? I thought I had read 6-7 hours, correct? I don't want to overdo it.
 
I started moving everything back after five hours (which took a few hours in all), but several other people went longer and dosed a little more. I had AEFW's on the glass before the first treatment and never saw a sign after. I only found eggs on one coral, and it was the first to go (prompting the treatment). I did four treatments...
 
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