Aftermath RIP

asmodyus

asmodyus

New member
So I was able to save my tank partially thanks to sirrealism.

I Did lose My Powder Blue, Hippo Tang, Tomini Tang, Large Blue Reef chromis, LArger Female Clown and Ember Blenny, and also a Blood Red shrimp.

I managed to save My Yellow tang (he was upside shallow breath) Large PJ Cardnil, Male Clown, and Azure Damsel. On a good note it wiped out all my pulsating ZENA, but I did lose all my SPS that I was trying to grow.
 
Oh man, this is vert hard to read. I feel horrible reading this.

I was in the process of buying all the equipment needed to start a tank up and I am glad I didn't get to it yet. To be honest, even though I didn't lose power, I am thinking I may not set this up, at least not until I get a generator for the whole house.

I hope you get to save some stuff at least. Good luck man. At least you are alive and safe.
 
If u lost anything u may have gotten from me in the storm. I will do my best to replace stuff for free to help u out. Also I'm sure I have some other ones I can hook u up with to help u get started again. Contact me if you want to make the drive up.
 
I was prepared to stay until we were in a flood zone and evacuated.
Had generators and batteries/inverters to keep all the tanks alive.

Looks like i lost power sunday night and regained power yesterday night.
Had a 360g, 180g and a 30g frag tank. Lost all my fish for sure. Not sure what coral made it yet but id be surprised if anything made it.
 
I also planned to stay then last minute Saturday morning my whole family left, I had a small bubbler on but it was dead when I got back home Tuesday at 11pm (15 hour drive traffic was awful), hooked my car battery up to the tank to get some movement.
My loss so far are 11 out of my 14 corals, a blue chromis, skunk cleaner shrimp, yellow goby, possibly my yellow coris wrasse, he's MIA..

My solar fairy wrasse, purple fire fish, and sapphire damsel are still alive, and I now have power at my house so I'm thankful I didn't lose everyone and no damage to my house.

Sorry for your, and everyone else that may have lost anything
 
besides air bubblers what are some other preventative measures we can take into consideration? also what is a good generator wattage and brands?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Air bubbler and one of the live well pumps they sell at Walmart hooked up to a car battery is a great thing to have ready to go. Also our generator is a 5500 troybuilt.
 
It's always a good idea to have an inverter Genny. Clean signal is better for electronics (like reefkeeper or apex).

I was looking at 10k to run everything on my 300 + a fridge, but I may be able to get away with 7k.

Everything is 2 returns, 4 ecotechs, 2 300 w heaters a massive chiller 1/2 hp I think), nyos 300 skimmer, 4 sea swirls, 2 Pacific sun led t5 hybrid, calcium reactot
 
Ted_C said:
It's always a good idea to have an inverter Genny. Clean signal is better for electronics (like reefkeeper or apex).

I was looking at 10k to run everything on my 300 + a fridge, but I may be able to get away with 7k.

Everything is 2 returns, 4 ecotechs, 2 300 w heaters a massive chiller 1/2 hp I think), nyos 300 skimmer, 4 sea swirls, 2 Pacific sun led t5 hybrid, calcium reactot
Click to expand...


Youd be surprised at what size genny you can get away with.
2 returns 150ea 300w total
4 mp60-60w ea. 250w total
600w heaters
My 1/2hp chiller is about 450 running watts
Skimmer about 50 without looking up.
Ca reactor 50-100

Thats only 1,750w plus whatever your lighting draws.
Fridge is 300-1000w depending on model.
I have a 5500 that will run a good amount of stuff.
I have a generac guardian 12kw auto transfer generator in my trailer that i didnt get hooked up in time that would of ran almost my whole house with my central ac
 
I was lucky not to loose power and happy to share my gen with another member. Just an idea most any gen will run our tanks but something above 4500 will run most everything in the house other then A.C, Stove or dyer. I keep a couple window shakers in my garage because sleeping in the heat sucks.
In the next few weeks or months there are going to be a lot of gens coming up for sale cheap as a lot of people bought them for the storm and now dont want to keep them "Dumb" IMO. Keep an eye out on FB, Offerup and letgo and I bet you can pick one up for a few hundred. Drain all the gas out of the tank and carb. Clean the carb with some carb cleaner and put the gen away. The one I let Asmodyus use is about 5 years old and had gas in it 1 time. I had cleaned the carb but did not clean out the tank as well as I should before I put it away. There is a little bit of rust in the tank but not enough to bother anything. When I needed it I put gas in and first pull it was running. Mine is a 5500 but if you read close thats constant and will put out more like 7000 for short bursts.
In 03/04 "Cant remember" I went 14 days without power. I ran the same size gen and ran 2 5000 btu window shakers 5 fresh water aquariums. 1 reef. tv, fridge, lights, fans, ect with no issues. Not saying bigger is not better but I think 5500 would take care of most of us.
 
sirrealism said:
I was lucky not to loose power and happy to share my gen with another member. Just an idea most any gen will run our tanks but something above 4500 will run most everything in the house other then A.C, Stove or dyer. I keep a couple window shakers in my garage because sleeping in the heat sucks.
In the next few weeks or months there are going to be a lot of gens coming up for sale cheap as a lot of people bought them for the storm and now dont want to keep them "Dumb" IMO. Keep an eye out on FB, Offerup and letgo and I bet you can pick one up for a few hundred. Drain all the gas out of the tank and carb. Clean the carb with some carb cleaner and put the gen away. The one I let Asmodyus use is about 5 years old and had gas in it 1 time. I had cleaned the carb but did not clean out the tank as well as I should before I put it away. There is a little bit of rust in the tank but not enough to bother anything. When I needed it I put gas in and first pull it was running. Mine is a 5500 but if you read close thats constant and will put out more like 7000 for short bursts.
In 03/04 "Cant remember" I went 14 days without power. I ran the same size gen and ran 2 5000 btu window shakers 5 fresh water aquariums. 1 reef. tv, fridge, lights, fans, ect with no issues. Not saying bigger is not better but I think 5500 would take care of most of us.
Click to expand...


All correct info....and be sure to use non ethanol gas....!!
 
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That's terrible to hear. We were able to keep our main pump running off of a small honda generator we had. I would disconnect for about 8 hours during the day to run 3 of our 6 lights to at least try to keep stuff alive. We managed to keep all our fish, some of the coral struggled. Lost a couple heads on some frogspawns and our anemone decided to move and hasn't resurfaced, so I'm guessing he died.
 
This hobby is relentless. We lost three fish and 90% of my sps. I don't blame anyone for calling it quits after a crash. I have things stabilized now and will push on...
 
nearly 1000 Watts for my chiller on the 300. The apex came on and started measuring just in time. My chiller is drawing 8 to 8.2 amps at 120 V. Luckily the data was stored and read by Fusion so I can see my full load on startup.

Normal operation is about 2 Amps per Energy bar. I have three energy bars

The 150 had 9.5 Amps of draw when the power came back on from the chiller. Normal operation looks to be 2 Amps total.


So yes, I'm still in the range of ~5000 watts w the 300, 150 and the fridge. +2000 watts for both chillers, 750 watts for everything else on the 300. 250 watts for the 150. I dont know what I'm getting on the fridge but I'm guessing its upwards of 1000 W

Isn't there a difference in what I can run and what I should run on a rated generator? I've read the more load you put on a generator the louder it runs and you burn through fuel quicker. Then there's all the work the equipment puts in on startup versus running that needs to be taken into account (could be controlled manually). I even think there is some loss due to the length of your extension cord.

I've also read that you shouldn't run your tank without an inverter generator so as to provide a clean signal. I previously mentioned Apex / Reefkeeper. If you think about it though - there's a whole ton of sensitive electronic equipment on our tanks that can be affected by a non-inverter generator or a generator that surges. Anything with a controller (DC pumps, Ecotech products, computer controlled LEDs).

I'm no electrician and I'm no expert but I do research everything I can and these are the questions that should be answered if you are researching generators for supporting the house.
 
Ted_C said:
nearly 1000 Watts for my chiller on the 300. The apex came on and started measuring just in time. My chiller is drawing 8 to 8.2 amps at 120 V. Luckily the data was stored and read by Fusion so I can see my full load on startup.

Normal operation is about 2 Amps per Energy bar. I have three energy bars

The 150 had 9.5 Amps of draw when the power came back on from the chiller. Normal operation looks to be 2 Amps total.


So yes, I'm still in the range of ~5000 watts w the 300, 150 and the fridge. +2000 watts for both chillers, 750 watts for everything else on the 300. 250 watts for the 150. I dont know what I'm getting on the fridge but I'm guessing its upwards of 1000 W

Isn't there a difference in what I can run and what I should run on a rated generator? I've read the more load you put on a generator the louder it runs and you burn through fuel quicker. Then there's all the work the equipment puts in on startup versus running that needs to be taken into account (could be controlled manually). I even think there is some loss due to the length of your extension cord.

I've also read that you shouldn't run your tank without an inverter generator so as to provide a clean signal. I previously mentioned Apex / Reefkeeper. If you think about it though - there's a whole ton of sensitive electronic equipment on our tanks that can be affected by a non-inverter generator or a generator that surges. Anything with a controller (DC pumps, Ecotech products, computer controlled LEDs).

I'm no electrician and I'm no expert but I do research everything I can and these are the questions that should be answered if you are researching generators for supporting the house.
Click to expand...
Look for the nameplate sticker inside your fridge or freezer and see what the amperage is then multiply by 120 and you will get your wattage.
 
Ted_C said:
nearly 1000 Watts for my chiller on the 300. The apex came on and started measuring just in time. My chiller is drawing 8 to 8.2 amps at 120 V. Luckily the data was stored and read by Fusion so I can see my full load on startup.

Normal operation is about 2 Amps per Energy bar. I have three energy bars

The 150 had 9.5 Amps of draw when the power came back on from the chiller. Normal operation looks to be 2 Amps total.


So yes, I'm still in the range of ~5000 watts w the 300, 150 and the fridge. +2000 watts for both chillers, 750 watts for everything else on the 300. 250 watts for the 150. I dont know what I'm getting on the fridge but I'm guessing its upwards of 1000 W

Isn't there a difference in what I can run and what I should run on a rated generator? I've read the more load you put on a generator the louder it runs and you burn through fuel quicker. Then there's all the work the equipment puts in on startup versus running that needs to be taken into account (could be controlled manually). I even think there is some loss due to the length of your extension cord.

I've also read that you shouldn't run your tank without an inverter generator so as to provide a clean signal. I previously mentioned Apex / Reefkeeper. If you think about it though - there's a whole ton of sensitive electronic equipment on our tanks that can be affected by a non-inverter generator or a generator that surges. Anything with a controller (DC pumps, Ecotech products, computer controlled LEDs).

I'm no electrician and I'm no expert but I do research everything I can and these are the questions that should be answered if you are researching generators for supporting the house.
Click to expand...

So I have been reading a lot on generators now since I am in the market to buy one. So from what I read you want your generator to run at 50% to achieve maximum fuel efficiency the more you had on the louder it gets and more fuel it will burn. Also there is starting power and running power so if a Generator says 6000 watts make sure that's running power and not starting power, Running is what you need to sustain everything until fuel runs out. Certain Items like, refrigerators, Portable AC and Chillers will require little more watts to start or also called starting power to run. (Example on starting power if you are already running 4000 watts on a 4800 running power generator and you try to add refrigerator that take 2200 watts to start but only needs 800 to run it can cause on overload if you don't have really good generator.) I think that covers everything I read LOL.
 
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My generator is 5000w connect direct to circuit panel and runs 11 tanks including my 240. Tank lights and all. Refrigerator and 3 other circuits on the panel. Gas lasted one tank about 5 gal about 12 hours
 
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